Returning batteries for warranty claim

   / Returning batteries for warranty claim #121  
My ongoing philosophy for what it's worth...

First off, we charged flooded cell batteries sitting on a shelf are getting older and weaker as they sit waiting for you to purchase them. Any flooded cell battery (including AGM's) are aging whether they are installed in some application or not. Fact of battery life.

I always buy my batteries from a volume retailer where they aren't sitting on a shelf somewhere, in my case I buy all my jars from a local truck dealership where I know they have a large turnover and that is not brand related either. Currently running Delphi jars and I always fit the largest battery in my tractors and vehicles that will physically fit the battery box.

One thing I always do is, I physically look at any retailers batteries and if they have dust on the top, I run away quick because a dusty jar has been sitting there and it's useable life is draining away waiting...

The other ting I always do when replacing ANY jar is, I trickle charge it prior to installing it to bring it up to 100% static charge before I ever install it, brand is inconsequential.

I always (without fail) make sure the battery terminal clamps are clean and bright before installing and I make sure the ground strap where it connects to the frame is clean and bright as well and I check all the cables to make sure they are not corroded or frayed as well.

One thing I do with the batteries in my tractors that sit all winter is, I install a master disconnect on the NEGATIVE terminal and I isolate them when sitting in the barn so if there is a parasitic loss, the battery never sees it anyway. A full charged battery looses very little charge when sitting, so long as it's isolated from the system. In fact, a properly charged flooded cell battery will loose about 7-10% of it's total cranking amperage per month when it's idle and it's connected to the system.

I have very little battery related issues and never have actually and typically, a jar will last (me) for about 5 years before I replace them. Brand irregardless.

Your mileage and mine may be different but that is how I approach it and finally, when I install a new jar, I always coat the terminals and clamps as well as the ground termination with a proprietary battery compound to prevent oxidation and that includes the connections on the starter (positive and negative) as well.

My tractors have been sleeping all winter but I'm willing to make book on the fact that I can go out in the barn, close the master disconnects on them and they will fire right up.
 
   / Returning batteries for warranty claim #124  
My ongoing philosophy for what it's worth...

First off, we charged flooded cell batteries sitting on a shelf are getting older and weaker as they sit waiting for you to purchase them. Any flooded cell battery (including AGM's) are aging whether they are installed in some application or not. Fact of battery life.

I always buy my batteries from a volume retailer where they aren't sitting on a shelf somewhere, in my case I buy all my jars from a local truck dealership where I know they have a large turnover and that is not brand related either. Currently running Delphi jars and I always fit the largest battery in my tractors and vehicles that will physically fit the battery box.

One thing I always do is, I physically look at any retailers batteries and if they have dust on the top, I run away quick because a dusty jar has been sitting there and it's useable life is draining away waiting...

The other ting I always do when replacing ANY jar is, I trickle charge it prior to installing it to bring it up to 100% static charge before I ever install it, brand is inconsequential.

I always (without fail) make sure the battery terminal clamps are clean and bright before installing and I make sure the ground strap where it connects to the frame is clean and bright as well and I check all the cables to make sure they are not corroded or frayed as well.

One thing I do with the batteries in my tractors that sit all winter is, I install a master disconnect on the NEGATIVE terminal and I isolate them when sitting in the barn so if there is a parasitic loss, the battery never sees it anyway. A full charged battery looses very little charge when sitting, so long as it's isolated from the system. In fact, a properly charged flooded cell battery will loose about 7-10% of it's total cranking amperage per month when it's idle and it's connected to the system.

I have very little battery related issues and never have actually and typically, a jar will last (me) for about 5 years before I replace them. Brand irregardless.

Your mileage and mine may be different but that is how I approach it and finally, when I install a new jar, I always coat the terminals and clamps as well as the ground termination with a proprietary battery compound to prevent oxidation and that includes the connections on the starter (positive and negative) as well.

My tractors have been sleeping all winter but I'm willing to make book on the fact that I can go out in the barn, close the master disconnects on them and they will fire right up.
Battery Disconnect can make a world of difference.
 
   / Returning batteries for warranty claim #126  
Take them back and tell them to do a load test. You should not have to jump a less than one year old battery unless they have dead cells.
 
   / Returning batteries for warranty claim
  • Thread Starter
#127  
Battery Disconnect can make a world of difference.
It has an automatic battery disconnect. There a timer that runs 10 minutes then you hear a distinct “click-click” and the batteries are disconnected.
 
   / Returning batteries for warranty claim
  • Thread Starter
#128  
Take them back and tell them to do a load test. You should not have to jump a less than one year old battery unless they have dead cells.

The batteries are at 11.1V now. I tried to start it yesterday and they’d barely crank. I’m about ready to chuck the damn things through the front window of the store…..
 
   / Returning batteries for warranty claim #129  
I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

If my tractor is showing 13.4+ on voltmeter and I have no trouble light on as stated, why would it be alternator?

If charging overnight does the trick but the charging system of the tractor cannot maintain the charge, it is the problem.

If the batteries cannot HOLD a charge, they should be replaced. Tell the people at NAPA to charge it back up and leave it sitting for a day, then test. As you don't leave your tractor running all night, just so you can start it in the morning.
 
   / Returning batteries for warranty claim #130  
Take battery issue to district manager level ...OR ....Move on to something other than NAPA batteries.....
 
 
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