Rear Blade Rear plow blade carnage

[Threepoint]

Were you "pushing" with the rear blade;that's a no-no;designed to pull not push.No trip somethings got to give.

Hmm, I have to disagree with this as a blanket statement. Certainly it's easier to do damage to both the attachment and the tractor itself plowing in reverse, but with a 3-pt rear blade on a CUT, there's no trip mechanism in either direction, whether pushing or pulling.

In fact, virtually every 3-pt rear blade I've seen is expressly designed to rotate for backwards use in reverse, and it can be a very effective way to plow when done correctly. Also, consider the proper use of a 3-pt box blade. Would we also say that it's wrong to grade in reverse, or back fill in reverse, with a BB? Nope. Every 3-pt box blade I've seen for a CUT has both a front and a back cutting edge and mold board. Yet we can damage the attachment, or the tractor's lower link arms and transmission case by working in reverse as quickly with one of those. IMO, the direction of travel isn't the issue. Rather, it's properly matching the attachment to the tractor's size, weight and power, and knowing the limits of both for a given task and conditions.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I would think that going forward would potentially do more damage as you might tend to go faster and farther in that direction.

 

[Deere Dude]

I have a light-medium duty blade which worked great with a 25 hp garden tractor but when I put it on a 45 HP cut things started to bend very fast even though I behaved with it. Now I am almost afraid to use it.

 

[MAD777]

I just finished blading snow off my 450' driveway, which goes downhill at 19% grade. My 25 HP Kioti CK2610HST can get rolling. So far, no rocks, but I was knocking around frozen in, solid ice chunks the size of two healthy Virginia hams. (did I use the word "healthy" and "Virginia ham" in the same sentence?)
My blade is an EA 84" 6-way and I certainly don't baby it. Seems to be built like a tank. Guess I'll find out for sure when I hit my first big rock, LOL.

 

[ruffdog]

I can see why the OP never felt it.....it wasn't welded. At least not in the sense of 2 pieces being joined together. I think some flex seal and flex tape would have held better. :laughing:

 

[John_Mc]

Were you "pushing" with the rear blade;that's a no-no;designed to pull not push.No trip somethings got to give.

I can't see what that has to do with it. That break would have occurred whether pushing or pulling, had he hit the same type of obstacle.

The concern about pushing is for the 3Pt hitch system itself: the 3PH is far more robust in the pulling direction than it is when pushing.

 

[Sportsman762]

The blade appears to be a Braber Equipment Agri ease HEAVY DUTY back blade.
Braber Equipment - Rear Blades

The 6' is 330 lbs and rated to 60 hp.
Braber Equipment - Heavy Duty Rear Blade

The blade was most likely made in China, if not it was india. Braber is not known for quality, this reinforces my opinion of that.

 

[LouNY]

All of my blades have been used pulling and pushing, depending on what needed to be done.
Didn't matter if it was pushing dirt or snow if push was the easiest way it got pushed.

 

[chim]

..................................Anybody else have trouble with this brand Agri Ease.................................t[/url]

Not that brand, but one from TSC:

Scraper Blade Broke, and Welding Table Done - OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

 

[WranglerX]

Looking at picture again... It appear to be it was pulling and not pushing ( observe angles of bends).... And that there was no penetration at weld joints....

How it was being used is non issue, it was destined to fail no matter if it was handled with kid gloves or beat on with sledge hammers....


Dale

 

[s219]

Yeah, those are lousy welds. And given the rust already there, it may have been cracked before you even used it.

 

[MrWinkey]

Just got in from plowing. Yes the dealer swapped me out the rear blade no issues. Same make/model/size. Went out and plowed all the neighbors first then my driveway. Everything held together. I'm not impressed with the quality on that blade but at least it's in one piece. I have not run across that brand before. It would be easy enough to add some extra welds and gussets to it. Just didn't think it should come apart first time out.

No I did not have the blade flipped around. I was pulling about 5" of heavy wet snow. Already made one run down my driveway so it was kicking off a big pile. My driveway has lots of rocks so hitting the occasional rock for the plow to climb over is not unusual. Only going 2-3 mph.

I had a light duty Rollins blade on my old Mahindra 2816 and it survived the same treatment for 10+ years. I hoped this rear blade would at least make it the same time frame.

 

[MrWinkey]

The blade appears to be a Braber Equipment Agri ease HEAVY DUTY back blade.
Braber Equipment - Rear Blades

The 6' is 330 lbs and rated to 60 hp.
Braber Equipment - Heavy Duty Rear Blade

The blade was most likely made in China, if not it was india. Braber is not known for quality, this reinforces my opinion of that.

Yes this is the Braber 6' Heavy Duty rear blade. The one that broke had big plates on it "Made in China"

This current one has slightly different stickers and name plate so it's possible that it's a different factory. Still not impressed with the weld quality. It stayed together at least for now. I will probably go over the welds again once it's not snowing sideways and miserable out.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Just add some gussets and welds and you should be fine.

Nice tractor, by the way.

 

[nybirdman]

For sure defective from factory;would have failed in either direction.I still maintain that pushing with a year blade is not good.
All the stresses are on the top link;a while back a member here tore the connection from the tractor right off the casting.
I believe the reverse blade moving forward is for final smoothing/doesn't dig in.
Final;your Equiptment do as you see fit.

 

[LouNY]

For sure defective from factory;would have failed in either direction.I still maintain that pushing with a year blade is not good.
All the stresses are on the top link;a while back a member here tore the connection from the tractor right off the casting.
I believe the reverse blade moving forward is for final smoothing/doesn't dig in.
Final;your Equiptment do as you see fit.

For some situations you would almost have to push backwards;
pushing snow banks back,
back filling trenches, ect.

 

[tractorcrazy]

I have skidded a lot of logs from a chain attached to the back of my back blade (a lot safer this way)but never did damage like that on a kingkutter five foot blade I'd say something got missed being welded or no penetration when welded

 

[ovrszd]

Were you "pushing" with the rear blade;that's a no-no;designed to pull not push.No trip somethings got to give.

Obviously pulling.

 

[ovrszd]

For some situations you would almost have to push backwards;
pushing snow banks back,
back filling trenches, ect.

I've moved much more snow pushing with a rear blade than pulling. Much more.

In this case the failure was going to happen regardless of direction. Actually the frame component of this blade doesn't know whether you are pushing or pulling. If he had destroyed the frame or the 3pt tower, maybe. But he didn't. He destroyed the turntable.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

Our old Buhler Farm King 6' blade was 9/10 wore out when we got it.. It is still about 3/4 wore out save the TLC I have given it.. However, it works fine and was VERY cheap..

You seriously need to do a warranted replacement with your dealer as that was a mess with a reasonably nice paint job cover waiting to wreck since day one. I would scream and complain as high on the food chain of the dealer, and manufacturer as it takes to to get results..

Good luck..