offset blade *yums*
some issues over the years is "wanting to add weight to blade" from gravel driveway / dirt lane on the farm. the ground dries so stinking hard and gets compacted, the blade will begin to skip and hop over the ground. yes a box blade with scraficer teeth down would help break things up. but....
a box blade normally has a place to set some concrete bricks, or a log across the top of it, for added weight, a rear blade on other hand. really no spot to add weight easily.
pending on other attachements, if doing FEL (front end loader work in the dirt) having 3pt hitch rear blade on as counter weight, and also to help smooth out some ruts as you are working throughout the day works out nicely, finding a rear blade that has enough weight in it, to counter balance the FEL work can be nice.
if you maintain / want to create any trails in the woods, or redo ditches on driveway, 3pt rear blade /offset and the different angling can come in handy! you can angle rear blade some with raising and/or lowering the 3pt hitch lift arms. to get some angle (left and right) of the blade to some degree. but it may not be enough alone for ditches. normally 3pt hitch lifting arm adjustments are more than enough to put a crown on a road.
some folks have make shifted "wings" for there rear blades. some wings, are for snow, to simply make the blade wider. and other wings, turn the rear blade into something that more resembles a "box blade" with its sides and without the scraficer teeth.
folks with concrete driveways / paved driveways, have DIY gauge wheels, so the actuall cutting edge of blade stays just above the concrete, other folks have created "skid shoes" basicly a metal bar on each side of the blade and holds the blade up off the concrete / paved driveway. and yet other folks, use something like gauge wheels, but are more like metal adjustable legs. to hold blade up off the surface soom.
and for others, they have turned the rear blade more into a "motor grader" in a sense, and they extend some metal a good distance behind the blade. with some wheel/s at the very end. this helps with smoothing out little hills and dips, over a longer driveway.
folks that use rear blade say in town, were concrete curb sidewalks or more likely to be. double check your angle bolts, that they turn into "sheer bolts" so when ya do hit the curb, the bolt shears / breaks vs bending the blade and/or damaging the 3pt hitch, or the curb itself.
TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch, works out excellent for rear blades, box blades, and various 3pt hitch rakes. to help fine tune and adjust angle of attack for the blade on the go. to get that nice feathering effect without a lot of extra hassle.
other folks take it a step further, place hyd cylinders on all adjustments on the blade.
double check you have your check chains / sway chains or like on tractor. if blade catches something or you go into a turn with blade down, you could bind the 3pt hitch up and bend /break something on the 3pt hitch. 3pt hitchs are awesome at pulling stuff, but simple basic 3pt hitch can not take the abuse of side to side abuse, without the extra chains / bars.
. I know what you mean about running out of places to put the snow after last winter we had in Ohio. I used my trusty 2500 Cub with a 42' front blade for last 10 years it beats a shovel I wont know how to act this winter with my 2025. Do you have rear ballast when you back blade snow? Dealed filled my rears with washer fluid(at no cost) and wonder if it will be enough weight,I moght have to break down and pay the big $ for wheel weights, about $2 a pound $600 for 4 weights ouch.
