Rear Blade choice

[DPSailor]

I have a Kubota M6040. The tires are 82” wide so leaning towards an 8’ blade. With filled tires and the loader, I’m right at about 10,000 pounds. I’m in NH so rocky soil. My intent primarily is improving my trails in the woods so cutting into hillsides to level off. I’ll also do some ditching. Not likely for snow removal.
I do have a box blade on order, EA, and not likely to see that until fall.
Locally, I have a Landpride RB3796 and a Mahindra heavy duty 8’. Same price for both. The Mahindra is at 700 lbs, 40 more than the Landpride. I was set on the LP but I went to look at it and the welds were filling a gap where the angled support brackets met the crossbeam. The salesman assured me this is how they are made but I’m a little leery.
I could order an EA but would like to be working on this prior to the fall.
This is my first tractor at this property and would appreciate anyone’s input.
Are either of the local blades sufficient? Should I look at other brands or models? I don’t think hydraulics are necessary for me.
Thanks

 

[Fladogman]

I had a light weight blade and quickly broke it, I think it was TS. Last year I found a used rhino 850- 7' blade. It weighs a little over #900. It made the other one seem like a toy. The weight makes a big difference in cutting so IMHO the heavier the better. The second factor is length behind the tractor. The further back the smoother the finish. The third and most important it blade adjustability. A 6 way blade will do more and you'll use it more. Hope this helps. BTW if my tractor was as big as yours I'd go with the rhino 950 with hydraulics and the tail wheel option

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Does the blade you ordered have the wicked tines? I have an EA cat 1 cat 2 7-ft blade I just bought used and immediately broke a tine and bent almost 90° another time I'm in Maine so the same Rocky soil. I believe the new wicked times will not break so easily

 

[Fladogman]

No tines, heavy replaceable cutting edge

 

[Fladogman]

This is my set-up

 

[DPSailor]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I’ve got a call out to the Rhino dealer in Concord to see what they have.
The 850 and 950 both look like tanks.
I had looked, briefly, at the TS models but they were only rated for 40hp I believe so quickly put them aside.

 

[Thomas]

Yup NH known for growing good rock crop,hyd would be the cats @ss but blade that will turn 180 degrees also nice for finishing touches back dragging.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nothing less than 800lbs, heaver the better and an 8 foot blade for sure. 7' is to narrow for your tractor and a 9 footer would be the tail wagging the dog IMO. Might want to keep an eye open for how much offset capability the blade has if you have ditches and the like to clean out. They do build them different, ranging from 24" up to 35" I believe for a good 8' rear blade.

 

[3Lfarms]

I just received my 96” EA blade. It seems very well built, but other than moving some loose dirt and gravel, I haven’t put it to the test yet.
I opted for the manual tail wheel, so once it’s set to grade it can’t drift or be moved by bumping the wrong hydraulic control.

I installed a Summit 3 stack multiplier so I can operate all three functions and the hydraulic top link and still have my detented remote free.

 

[BackRoad]

Mr. 3LFarms, greatly interested in details on the Summit setup.

Looks like you have an original set of 3 remotes, and the Summit is using one set, your Top & Tilt are using the others?

Was it plug and play to add, or were there significant modifications necessary?

Did you have to order the hydraulic lines separately?

Any chance of seeing a photo of the control box?

To the OP. I run an 8' EA blade on my 60 HP MX6000. At ~5K# loaded, it is not over-sized for the tractor.

A straight pull in wet sticky clay will work the tractor, but 98% of blade work is done using an angled blade.

The wider blade provides full coverage of the wheel width, and then some when offset and angled.

And as someone above mentioned, go with the heaviest blade you can find.

If I had your full sized tractor, I'd be looking at 10' blades, nothing less than 9' and hydraulics to adjust them. Manual adjustment of the offset on the 8' takes some effort the higher it is lifted up.

EA makes solid implements...and Rhino makes some good products also.

 

[oosik]

WoW! Somebody with a setup almost identical to mine. I have everything except the cab. I have an 820# Land Pride grapple - SGC 1560 - on the FEL. With my Rhino rear blade, RimGuard filled rear tires & grapple - it tips the grain scales @ 10,100#.

I initially had a Land Pride 2584 rear blade on the M6040. It was not wide enough nor heavy enough. When offset and angled the "cut path" was simply too narrow. And it was not heavy enough to cut into my summer time, concrete like, driveway. Up/down - back/forth on the driveway. All it did was make sparks and create frustration. I have a mile long gravel driveway. After forty years the surface is now gravel, sand, silt & volcanic ash. Turns to concrete after the spring rains.

So........ I upgraded to an eight foot 950 Rhino. 96" and 1050#. WHAT A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE. Along with my FitRite hydraulic top link - I'm now a real grading machine. The Rhino works well on the M6040. I've done grading with it to the point of completely stopping the tractor's forward movement and had all four wheels digging.

It's an expensive Cat 2 rear blade but it really shines behind my tractor. You won't be sorry if you choose a HD Rhino.

BTW -- the only hydraulics on my rear blade is the top link. The remainder are all manual.

 

[DPSailor]

Oosik,
I have read through many of your posts. With such similar tractors, your points are very applicable.
Finding blades is proving difficult. There one Rhino dealer close enough but hasn’t been responsive. Going to have to drive over. I’m definitely focused on the 8’ blade, now to find a heavy one.
Really appreciate everyone’s input.

 

[CoyPatton]

Some recommendations
•width—you want enough width to cover your tread stance at an angle of 45 degrees
•weight-for digging into hillsides this is your best friend ever! Buy as heavy a blade as your budget allows that your tractor will lift without struggles
•hydraulics—they will make a world of difference in what you are able to do. Not only do you get the connivence of making adjustments from the seat, but more importantly is you will make those adjustments to get the desired results instead of settling for what it is (after several trips off the tractor, fighting with a heavy implement and getting even less accomplished that ‘settling’ for results becomes more common and more frustrating). Get as many hydraulic adjustments as possible.
•offset blade—if digging/cleaning wet ditches this is a must. Hydraulic adjustable is a nice benefit if doing several jobs or differing depth ditches. This is also a nice feature for hillside cutting as it allows the tractor to remain away from the slope of the hill as you cut into the hill side.

One draw back to hydraulic angle adjustment is if you like to use the blade in a reverse and forward orientation. It typically requires more work than pulling a pin and pushing the blade around. But it is most folks opinion this is far outweighed bu the benefits gain with hydraulics.

 

[oosik]

DPSailor - I had to drive to a small town and buy the Rhino from the AGCO dealer. 65 miles one way AND he only had a ten foot Rhino 1450 to look at. I bought the 950 sight unseen. It is the ONLY implement I've ever purchased and not seen it first. It was really difficult to visualize the 950 while looking at the 1450. The 1450 would be for 100hp tractors and larger. And the last bit of info - in 2017 the blade cost $3295 brand new. Plus our state sales tax - $310. The blade with tilt, angle and swing hydraulics was around another $1200.

I know it's a whole lot of $$$$. But in my case I need all the weight I can get to grade my driveway with any success.

BTW - CoyPatton - #13 above, makes the points I would have made - no need to duplicate. I DO reverse the blade quite often. Plowing snow when the driveway isn't frozen up rock hard. Drag & smooth lumpy ground.

Blade width and the ability to offset is very important to me. It allows me to plow snow off the driveway in spots where there is a substantial drop off right at the edge of the driveway. I don't have to put the tractor tires right on the bloody edge of the driveway to get the snow plowed off the driveway.

 

[DPSailor]

Great points, guys. I’ve exhausted my search for a Rhino in NH, ME, VT and MA. Craigslist has only produced a Bush Hog 91-08 with hydraulics for $3500.
EA has the extreme blade but the 8’ is only 575 lbs. They do have the Land Shark 8’ at 800 lbs. Probably the fall if I ordered now.
The Mahindra HD is 700 lbs, looks reasonably built but the offset is ratchet driven. I don’t know if that’s a good or bad feature. It’s $1900, the same price as the 3796 Land Pride.
I hear what you all are saying: 8’ and heavy, good offset and hydraulics if possible.
Finding one is proving difficult.

 

[BackRoad]

Good luck on your search.

I had been looking for a few months with very specific requirements for a used 8' EA or Rhino with offset capability on Marketplace (Fakebook)...they are pretty scarce.

I ended up driving from Northern PA into West Virginia to pick up a one year old 8' EA. 12 hours round trip. Including cost of diesel, it ended up $1000 less than a new one.

Real nice older gentleman with late stage cancer - selling everything so his family wouldn't have to deal with it all after he's gone.

Inspiring attitude and he was encouraging, yet it was still heart breaking...

 

[MechanicalGuy]

I run an 8' land pride on my mx5200. You'd better get a 9'. You won't be happy with any less.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

7' bb
8' scraper

And my tractor is smaller than yours.

 

[DPSailor]

MechanicalGuy,
Even if it will be used for dirt grading and cutting? I won’t need it for snow removal, just dirt work. I was concerned about tweaking the blade at that length. Thanks

 

[CoyPatton]

MechanicalGuy,
Even if it will be used for dirt grading and cutting? I won’t need it for snow removal, just dirt work. I was concerned about tweaking the blade at that length. Thanks

Straight blades are typically used set to an angle (45 degrees) so tweaking one is a chore. You really want it to cover your rear tire stance at the 45 degree angle