Radiator Repair Question

[careyo63]

I use a pair of Oil filter Pliers. Harbor Freight 5$ from the bargain bin and Fram 3593-A. Sticks out far enough through the guard that it takes maybe 2Min. to change the Filter on my 2000. Walmart has the Fram 3593-A. Been using them for 10yrs.

 

[careyo63]

Oh! Curiosity was getting to me. So had to go check while letting the dog out after looking back at the first pics.. Mine is almost the same as yours but being a D Yanmar reinforced and enclosed the whole filter. I don't have the end enclosing the filter. But still Loosen the cover if you have to and Oil Filter Pliers will easily loosen the Filter so you can get it off. If you even need to loosen the cover but be careful putting the new Filter on.

 

[normde2001]

I use the WIX 1064 filter in my YM2000B, works perfectly. About 3 bolts to remove the bracket, coolant lines no problem.

 

[kenmac]

The 3110 HAS / had a cover over the oil filter Making it a pain to get the filter off. I just left the metal cover off and let the filter be exposed. I use the longer NAPA filters, and the metal bracket was in the way.

I also have that drain. If you don't want the drain, You can remove it and just use a long hose to connect from the radiator to the block. I usually just pull the bottom radiator hose to drain mine anyway.
I would as norm suggested. I would just solder it back in place myself. It doesn't have to be silver solder. soft solder should be fine

 

[careyo63]

I use the Fram 3593-A since that is what was on it when I bought it from Spalding...

 

[Neat 1500]

I used to use the sakuras but Baldwins are cheaper here but longer by about 3/4". They are P/No B227. The longer length doesn't affect my filter changes.

 

[kenmac]

I used to use the sakuras but Baldwins are cheaper here but longer by about 3/4". They are P/No B227. The longer length doesn't affect my filter changes.

The longer filters give a little more media. Most likely better filtration than the smaller filters with a little less media

 

[coosa]

Getting the oil filter loose wasn't a problem at all. I got it loose and within maybe 2 turns of coming off when it hit the bracket, and would not go any further. I could have probably bent up the old filter and forced it out, but still would have had to take it all loose to get the new one in. If I had drained the antifreeze first and then took the line to the radiator loose at the drain, I could have removed the bracket and let it hang from the line to the block and not damaged anything. But I didn't know any better and pulled the barb out while trying my best not to put any pressure on it.

Just dropped it by the radiator shop, and he will have it done in a few hours. I don't trust my own soldering skills, and don't even have a decent soldering iron anyway. And BTW, mine is a D series too.

So are any of these oil filters you guys using 2.5" or shorter? I think that would work on mine with no alterations. To get to mine as is now, I have to remove the side panel - 3 bolts. Then remove the bolt that holds the little hose bracket in place. The main bracket has 2 bolts at the bottom and 2 at the top, so that's 8 altogether. I guess its not that big a deal now that I know how to do it. I suppose I need to change the antifreeze every time I do an oil change anyway, since once a year is enough on both due to the low number of hours I put on it. I am making a mountain out of a molehill, but seeing my radiator busted and losing all its coolant while trying to simply change the oil had a bad effect on me.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[careyo63]

I bought two OF-1334 when I was at Fredricks. The weight of them after 50 Hrs.of use was extremely heavy so I had Steve give me the Fram # again since I discarded it. After the 3rd. oil change the Fram was noticeably lighter and they are easy to pic. up at Walmart. Been 8-9yrs. using them and looking back in my pics. I found an old pic. of a Fred. filter and they are the same size. I know which one it was from the overspray of the touchup paint from the 2nd. oil change.

 

[careyo63]

Just ran into this pic. on CL. of a Fredricks supplied 2210BD. It clearly looks like it's setup like my YM2000. Someone may have used a cover from another model? Would be typical for a Frankenstein VNer..... The 2210 & the 2000 uses the same Eng. block.

 

[coosa]

Nice find, Carey. That 2210D doesn't look like mine at all. That filter looks like it would come out easily; the side panel is much different than mine too.

I got the radiator back home in time to start on it for a few minutes. I ran into a question I oughta ask someone before finishing it. The radiator sits on 2 round pillars made out of a rubber like material. The 2 bolts from the bottom go thru the pillars and into the bottom bracket of the radiator. Is there any general rule to follow on how tight they should be? They have to be tight enough to stay in there during all the vibration of working, but it looks like the rubber pillars compress as I tighten the bolts and the bolts could go right thru the bottom of the radiator if I tighten too much. Any guidelines on how tight they should be? Thanks!

 

[winston1]

Called a radiator shock absorber. RAD. SHOCK ABSORBER_: Yanmar Tractor Parts Looked through a couple of manuals but could find no torque value. Just my 2 cents which is not worth much, just goodntight. There are suppose to be double nuts underneath to prevent them from coming loose.

 

[coosa]

Called a radiator shock absorber. RAD. SHOCK ABSORBER_: Yanmar Tractor Parts Looked through a couple of manuals but could find no torque value. Just my 2 cents which is not worth much, just goodntight. There are suppose to be double nuts underneath to prevent them from coming loose.

Winston, thanks for looking this up for me! I'm not sure what you mean by double nuts underneath. Here is a pic I just made of one side:


You can see that the lock washer is not yet tight and the end of the bolt is almost touching the radiator already. I took the radiator off on my carport, so I'm sure there was nothing else on there. If I tighten it down much more, that bolt is gonna be up against the radiator at the least, and maybe go thru it.

I didn't realize how close it already was until I just took the picture. I'm thinking maybe put a stack of washers on the underside of the bolt to essentially make it shorter, and then put a nylon lock nut on the top to keep it from working loose. Is something like that what you were talking about? I don't understand how this didn't already cause a problem from the factory; I suspect I'm misunderstanding something.

 

[Neat 1500]

The longer filters give a little more media. Most likely better filtration than the smaller filters with a little less media

Yeah I like the bigger filter's too, but was just indicating that they were longer compared to the Sakura. I haven't used anything else on mine so can't comment on any others.

 

[winston1]

Winston, thanks for looking this up for me! I'm not sure what you mean by double nuts underneath. Here is a pic I just made of one side:


You can see that the lock washer is not yet tight and the end of the bolt is almost touching the radiator already. I took the radiator off on my carport, so I'm sure there was nothing else on there. If I tighten it down much more, that bolt is gonna be up against the radiator at the least, and maybe go thru it.

I didn't realize how close it already was until I just took the picture. I'm thinking maybe put a stack of washers on the underside of the bolt to essentially make it shorter, and then put a nylon lock nut on the top to keep it from working loose. Is something like that what you were talking about? I don't understand how this didn't already cause a problem from the factory; I suspect I'm misunderstanding something.

Don't know if I can copy over Hoye's part drawings or not. COOLING_SYSTEM: Yanmar Tractor Parts #26 is suppose to be a stud, #32 are double nuts to lock the tension on the hold down. You shouldn't be using a cap screw.

 

[coosa]

Thanks again, Winston. And thanks for the link; I didn't know Hoye had detailed drawings like that. I guess I need to spend some time on their site.

I guess this proves I have an aftermarket radiator. Maybe that could be part of the reason it is running hotter than some of you think it should? I'll figure out some way to make it tighten down without putting a hole through it. A good day to all!

 

[winston1]

We are not understanding each other. You just need a stud bolt in place of the cap screw you now have. Then you will be able to tighten it down and lock it with the double nuts.

 

[careyo63]

I knew they didn't look right so I checked my Cooling Sys. Dia. and Hoyes Ym2000 Dia. and went out and checked mine. Your bolts are upside down. Studs or threads pointing down. Tighten the first nut then the 2nd. will lock it. With those studs sticking up that radiator may stand a chance of not getting damaged. May need to use shorter bolts. If you can't get them turned around. Washer it up more to make sure the bot doesn't hit the Radiator.?

 

[coosa]

We are not understanding each other. You just need a stud bolt in place of the cap screw you now have. Then you will be able to tighten it down and lock it with the double nuts.

Thanks for looking out for me. It didn't come with a stud bolt and double nuts; this is they way it came from Fredricks. You think I should go look the hardware to rig it up that way it is in the drawing?

I started on the job, took a break, and checked the board and found your's a Carey's posts. I already have it together and did it by adding 2 washers and another lock washer in between and got it to tighten down much better than it was before. I think this will hold as well as following the original system, but I could be missing something. Here is the way the bottom looks now:



The lock washers appear tight, and there is plenty of clearance above.

 

[careyo63]

You should be good with the extra washers and you understand what we are saying. You just want t make sure that the bolts does not hit the Radiator as best you can.