Yanmar ym1602 / ym1502 lift arm guides.

[bmaverick]

luckily i was able to devote some time to it and finish up installing the lower arm anchors.. i have decided to keep the lift arms as bolts with shims to ensure everything stays aligned and tight.

i pulled both of the old side mounts off and noticed someone had drilled and tapped the left side out to a 1/2 inch bolt instead of it using M10x1.5 so it went from a easy swap to a lets dig in a little deeper kind of day.

i noticed when i pulled the left side off, that the bolts seemed pretty short, so i inspected them a little closer and discovered that the original installer of the old side plates used short bolts and only tapped the outer housing (the bolts being used for the side plates are actually the bolts that hold the outer axle housing on to the differential case.

they did drill deeper, but didnt tap it. so i drilled it to full depth and tapped it to 1/2-13 as that is what was already tapped into the outside covers. long story short i installed both sides and think it looks pretty good, and it feels exceedingly solid, being that the bracket is resting against the cutout in the frame, as well as the pin extends into the frame.


i designed the plates so that the back edge would be flush with the back of the tractor. i am toying with the idea of cutting a plate that would bolt on to the back of the differential where the tiller attachment used to be, and would also bolt to each of the side plates.

i made the side plates out of 3/4 inch steel. this way if i see any deflection i can make up that back plate and bolt it on without too much issue.

Since the lower sway arms for implement attachment are not OE and longer than normal, I would recommend upgrading those sway chains to this set.

Stabilizer Chain (each)

You will need some sort of turn-buckle to properly fit and control sway of various implements.

Mount to the farthest out hole on those lower arms and back to those hook-ups near the axle.

The present chains you have are like a kids swing set, ready to snap at the first jolt.

The last thing you need is a tractor implement acting like a tail-that-wags-the-dog effect. If this happens severely, the tractor better have a ROPS as roll-over is likely. Sway control is a priority with a 3-point.

 

[grumbolt]

Since the lower sway arms for implement attachment are not OE and longer than normal, I would recommend upgrading those sway chains to this set.

Stabilizer Chain (each)

You will need some sort of turn-buckle to properly fit and control sway of various implements.

Mount to the farthest out hole on those lower arms and back to those hook-ups near the axle.

The present chains you have are like a kids swing set, ready to snap at the first jolt.

The last thing you need is a tractor implement acting like a tail-that-wags-the-dog effect. If this happens severely, the tractor better have a ROPS as roll-over is likely. Sway control is a priority with a 3-point.

i fully agree, those chains are temporary.

as of right now, the only thing i have used the 3 point for is for moving a little trailer (old harbor freight 4x8 light duty trailer that weighs around 275 lbs empty) that i use to take the trash down to the road.

i like the chains you posted, i may end up redoing my chain anchors, currently they are not lined up exactly with the center of the anchors. i made them first and as i was installing them my OCD slapped my attention over to the arm brackets.

the lower lift arm pin location is pretty much locked in where it is, there are pilot holes in the side of the differential / axle housings, as well as the axle housings being fly cut such that the bracket presses up against a part of the axle housing spread out over the arch on the bracket (about 5 inches)

thank you for your insight, as always any tips you give are greatly appreciated!!

 

[grumbolt]

i cant stop thinking about the thread engagement on the original pin mount fastener..
all that stress was on the outer axle housing, as there was no engagement into the center section of the rear differential..
im considering making the back plate to tie the side plates together as insurance against future breakage.

the pieces up till now i have just printed out, double-side taped to material, and used basic tools on.. new style CAD to make the old style CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) templates.

but this piece would be significantly larger and lots of curves lol, i would need to get someone with a plasma cutter or water table to cut it out for me, so the cost would be a little higher..

anyway, in you guys opinions do you think it is needed? or am i overthinking it?

 

[bmaverick]

i cant stop thinking about the thread engagement on the original pin mount fastener..
all that stress was on the outer axle housing, as there was no engagement into the center section of the rear differential..
im considering making the back plate to tie the side plates together as insurance against future breakage.

the pieces up till now i have just printed out, double-side taped to material, and used basic tools on.. new style CAD to make the old style CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) templates.

but this piece would be significantly larger and lots of curves lol, i would need to get someone with a plasma cutter or water table to cut it out for me, so the cost would be a little higher..

anyway, in you guys opinions do you think it is needed? or am i overthinking it?

To tie the two together would be a flat U-brace. My only concern would be the affect it would have on the tow bar functionality.

I drew lines showing how the chains would fit too. Much like the other YM series machines with the adjustable turnbuckles.

This is the normal YM setup.

The link I provided also needs a few extra parts to make it robust and user friendly.
The second chain setup from the bottom is the completed setup I use.

The chain kit comes with a weak cotter pin. I prefer the bolt and a nylock to ensure things do not come apart on the lower arms. When mowing in the tall grass pastures, those cotter pins tend to get lost and all kinds of trouble happens.

To ensure the turn-buckles stay in place and not vibrate loose, adding simple flat o-rings works great between the tun-buckle and the two nuts. They act as tension keepers.

 

[grumbolt]

that looks very secure! thanks for the pics, i will be using them for reference! as far as my current chain anchors, i designed them based on the location of the pins before i made the stronger pins and while the base of the pin is in the same location, the ends had bent forward towards the axle about 5/8 of an inch which means my pivot point is no longer on the same axis as my pin.

im attaching a pic of what it currently is (red lines) and what i would need to do to make it align with the pin's pivot point (black line)

my question is this..

will 5/8 of an inch make a difference? the only cost to me to change it is time, i already have the materials needed.

 

[grumbolt]

the one inch square is so you can measure it to ensure the print out wasnt scaled by your software or printer..

 

[bmaverick]

the one inch square is so you can measure it to ensure the print out wasnt scaled by your software or printer..

From the YM series for the turn-buckle style chains, these are the typical plates with the chain holders marked in yellow.

Also notice the chain attachment to the lower arms, those use NUTS and not the cotter pin. The reason why I did my upgrade to the purchased chain kit.

Ignore item-3. Nobody uses a spring in-place when nothing is attached.

There are several manuals you can reference off the YTOG for free.

Here is the YM2500 and YM3000 with more 3-point parts in the diagram,

 

[bmaverick]

Looking at the YM1601/YM1602, this is a vague arrangement for the 3-point.

What you had done for the chain to axle is exactly the OE setup, even though its a weak design.
Your lower arms are straight and much longer, thus requiring a beefier setup like the YM2500.

 

[bmaverick]

the one inch square is so you can measure it to ensure the print out wasnt scaled by your software or printer..

Since the last time, did you make any further progress or busy during this holiday season?

 

[grumbolt]

Since the last time, did you make any further progress or busy during this holiday season?

ive been busy with the holidays.. i plan to get back on it as soon as things settle down a little lol

i found a complete set of arms chains links and everything from a compact john deere about the same size as my little yanmar for 100$ on market place, if they are still there when the poster returns from vacation i plan on picking them up..


happy new year!