Siromer/Jinma 254 - Improving the lift bar stabilisers

[aesmith]

Hi,
I am not sure what the correct term is, I'm referring to the parts that you adjust to stop the lift bars and therefore the implement from swinging from side to side.

I do not find these very effective, in fact they are a right pain in that for some implements there is no setting that is correct, so it has to be left really loose. And others the only working configuration leaves the implement off centre. The problem is when you need a length somewhere in between those holes. Another issue is that the pivot is not in line with the lift arm pivot, so if you manage to set it snug at one height it will be wrong at a different height.

Has anyone rigged up a better system? I was thinking something with a bottle screw or similar so it's continuously adjustable. Maybe using chain links so it provides tension only would be enough, I'm not sure. The critical use for us is the snowblower which is used in reverse and really needs to be kept in line.

And as I say I don't know what the correct term for this function is, which hampers my searching for ideas or parts.

Thanks, Tony S

 

[piper184]

Most people I know call them link stabilizers.
Yes they are a pain to get set properly but in my opinion they are better than using chains, which was the original solution to hitch sway. There are hooks welded onto the draw bar bracket on my 284 that can be used for anti-sway chains. I find that even more "unhandy".

The biggest problem comes from no exacting standards for the pin placement on the implement end. There is a range of sizes for a given hitch size and even then not all manufacturers comply. That is why a lot of the quick hitch systems wind up only fitting some implements. The adaptability of the 3 point design is both a feature and a bug. Keep in mind that some implements need to be run at a certain offset from the center line of the tractor and the system was designed just for this.

You would think that with all the holes in the stabilizer that you could always find one that is in the right place. More often than not, I find that one or both sides only fit in the slotted hole, kind of making it useless for anything precise. Perhaps drilling holes at 90 degrees to the ones from the factory would allow for different offsets. You could mount an implement and get it aligned where you want it to run and then drill a hole all the way through both pieces for a custom setup for that implement.

In theory the tractor end of the stabilizer is aligned with the tractor end of the lift arm so that no matter where it is attached to the lift arm, it will track the same arc as the lift arm. The length of the stabilizer should not change as the lift arms are moved. I need to check this on my tractor to be sure but I have never had a binding problem. Perhaps because at least one side is usually in the slot.

 

[aesmith]

In theory the tractor end of the stabilizer is aligned with the tractor end of the lift arm so that no matter where it is attached to the lift arm, it will track the same arc as the lift arm. The length of the stabilizer should not change as the lift arms are moved.

Thanks for the comments. On that last point the tractor end of the stabiliser is higher and further aft than the lift arm pivots.

 

[piper184]

Perhaps a ratcheting stabilizer would work better. Something like this.

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[piper184]

Now I have to go out and double check mine.

 

[piper184]

Yup! Mine too. The stabilizer pins are just aft and slightly above the link arm pins. Ouch, now my head hurts. Even though they are close to being in the same plane, they are not so the length of the stabilizer can not be fixed solid as it would cause the lift arm to bind as it travels. Maybe there is just enough slop in the system that it doesn't matter.
Maybe I am missing something obvious.
In any case, right now I have the back blade mounted and am using the fixed holes on both stabilizers and have no problem with binding so the amount of slop must be taking care of it.
It shouldn't be too hard to fabricate new stabilizer brackets that moved the tractor end so that it is in exact alignment with the lower arm pivot.
Something to think about until it gets warm enough to actually work on the tractor....

 

[aesmith]

Cheers. I discovered this when I had a three point mounted trailer hitch coupled up. When reversing a trailer you definitely don't want the hitch slopping from side to side, so I set the stabiliser real snug. Set like that the hitch wouldn't lower.

Trying to work it out, and starting from the lift arms right down, I think as it's raised the distance between the tractor end pivot and the lift arm mounting will reduce for the first part of the lift, then get longer again as it's raised further. I think the shortest will be when the lift arm is directly alongside the pivot.

 

[aesmith]

Perhaps a ratcheting stabilizer would work better. Something like this.

That was the sort of thing I was thinking of. I could probably make something up from off the shelf parts, maybe from a marine supplies place.

 

[piper184]

Yes, backing a trailer is where the loose 3pt is the most annoying. Yesterday I needed the tractor for another chore so while it was running I looked the links over more closely. With the back blade on the hitch and both links pinned in the first hole. When the blade was on the ground there was about 3/16" gap between the inner and outer sleeves of the link. Sam on both sides. As the arms are raised this gap disappeared and the slop was nearly all taken up and the hitch was fairly stable.
Here is a picture of my 3pt setup.

Looking at this and remembering how it got this way has made the little light go on. Originally the links were connected to the arms with pins. The pins were threaded held on with a nut just like the pins on the blade. However I could not keep the nuts tight and they kept working loose, making things worse. Eventually the threads got ruined and I had to come up with another solution. The original pins had a smaller diameter at the threads than on the pin. I found these bolts that fit the link but had to drill out the arm to get it assembled. These bolts have never come loose.

I have always had problems with the links not letting the arms open far enough for some of my implements and I was contemplating cutting the outer sleeve down to address this but didn't want to weaken the sleeve near the slot. Looking at it now, it is obvious all I have to do is move the bolts out to the next hole. This will give me more range of motion in the link.

Which hole are you using for the link to arm connection?

I think the idea of the links is to have the holes on the inner and outer parts at different spacing so that there is always a hole that will be lined up. I need to take mine apart and check but I think they are probably not done that way. Also 15 years of use has probably taken it's toll on the fit of the holes and pins.

In any case, the pins for the arms and links must be in the same plane at the tractor end in order for them to have concentric travel where ever the arms and links are connected. Our tractors have the pins close enough that all the cumulative slop in the system allows for it to work, just not as well as it could. Probably re-making the link mounting brackets is the best solution. Something else to do the two weeks of the year when ice skating isn't very good.

 

[aesmith]

Thanks again. Interesting about your bolts. The pins on ours are 19mm diameter, narrowing to 16mm for the threaded part, and with a collar on the 19mm side. One of ours broke, as a first fix I have welded it but was thinking of replacing with bolts as you have done. Or maybe with 16mm bolts and a sleeve rather than drilling the arm. I have mine in the same hole as yours, second to furthest out.

Like yours my stabilisers are worn, I can almost convince myself the holes are differently spaced on inner and outer parts, but not enough to give full adjustment.