Gord Baker
Gold Member
I doubt those tanks are removable to repair from the inside. If you could fabricate a plate with a nipple attached and then with sealant or JB weld, pop rivet it over the hole it may or may not work. Good Luck.
Radiator hose "snapped"
- Thread starter Omnipotent
- Start date
Shenandoah MF1760
Silver Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2021
- Messages
- 226
- Location
- Livingston, East Texas Piney Woods
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 2020 MF1760M
If that radiator's 14 years old I wouldn't suspect a quality issue.
I'd likely pull it, go to a radiator shop and ask if they know of a similar radiator I could drop in and make work.
As long as the size is large enough and connections come close (might need a different hose or two) it would probably work.
Of course, if you ever plan on selling it the buyer will take one look at it and back away slowly before starting to run.
aircommuter
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2012
- Messages
- 508
- Location
- coulterville,ca
- Tractor
- case 570lxt, JCB 1550B, Gradall 534c, Hyster C612B,Ford 445A
Maybe a 3d printer? Like others said though they are throw away, it’s the world today. Hard for me to get use to. I started repairing trucks and tractors in my dad’s shop in 1960. We had fuel pump kits, water pump kits, brushes and diodes plus many other things. I notice the worm clamp which isn’t always a good thing on plastic fittings. Too bad it didn’t happen 2 years ago, probably could have got one for $750.
Electronics tech
New member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2022
- Messages
- 10
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2000
Only a fool would try glue without exhausting all other options first!
If you don't want to buy a new radiator, maybe a shop could put you a new end on it. Those plastic ends are just held on by a crimped band, you know.
If you decide to try the glue anyway, I'd drill some very small holes around the edges of both pieces and pass a piece of small stainless steel wire through them. Then, twist the ends together like a bread bag tie. About 4 of those, 90° apart should keep everything lined up and pulled together, but you'll have to be sure they're embedded in the cement and sealed off. Glue inside and out.
I have some fine stainless steel wire that I got from a scrap yard. It was scrap from cable tv company.
Also, you'll need to pour lots of boiling water through and over these parts to get the antifreeze off them, or the glue for certain won't stick. I'd do that and let them dry completely before I did anything else. And use a small wire brush, too.
Years ago, I had a radiator cuff break off, leaving only about 1/2" on the radiator -- of my only vehicle! I cleaned the hose and the remaining part of the cuff as I said above with hot water and a small wire brush. When it was dry, I glued it with some water and vibration resistant super glue from one of the local parts houses and put the clamp on it. It held until I could get a new radiator 3 or 4 weeks later.
If you don't want to buy a new radiator, maybe a shop could put you a new end on it. Those plastic ends are just held on by a crimped band, you know.
If you decide to try the glue anyway, I'd drill some very small holes around the edges of both pieces and pass a piece of small stainless steel wire through them. Then, twist the ends together like a bread bag tie. About 4 of those, 90° apart should keep everything lined up and pulled together, but you'll have to be sure they're embedded in the cement and sealed off. Glue inside and out.
I have some fine stainless steel wire that I got from a scrap yard. It was scrap from cable tv company.
Also, you'll need to pour lots of boiling water through and over these parts to get the antifreeze off them, or the glue for certain won't stick. I'd do that and let them dry completely before I did anything else. And use a small wire brush, too.
Years ago, I had a radiator cuff break off, leaving only about 1/2" on the radiator -- of my only vehicle! I cleaned the hose and the remaining part of the cuff as I said above with hot water and a small wire brush. When it was dry, I glued it with some water and vibration resistant super glue from one of the local parts houses and put the clamp on it. It held until I could get a new radiator 3 or 4 weeks later.
kpsp50
Silver Member
I've never had a plastic radiator tank on any of the equipment that I've ran they should be metal save yourself a headache go down to your local radiator shop and get a metal tank made up they only use plastic in some of the tractors to save money, plastic will never hold up off road good luck in the new year
MooseOnTheLoose
New member
I was looking to repair a crack in a PVC line on a hot tub I picked up (free since it froze) and stumbled into "plast-aid". I was able to use it to fix an ABS sewer crack and the hot tub. Can't speak for longevity as I just got the hot tub running yesterday, but I have patched 4 things with it in the few weeks since I have gotten it and so far so good.
www.plast-aid.com
The stuff is strong - I used my old auto paint respirator on it. If you can fit your piece on there and fill in, I'd give it a shot - just make sure it is clean and dry. Might not even have to remove the radiator if you can get around it all the way. When you mix the stuff, they tell you to start applying when it reaches a consistency that works for you. I tried to get it coated while it was still very runny (just to "wet" it) and then fill in once it got to the point it wouldn't run.
They have videos showing a repair and then taking it to high PSI on PVC. If it bonds to your plastic, I'd give it a good chance.
Waterproof Plastic Repair Kits Fixes cracked ABS PVC Acrylic Wood More
Plast-aid is a multipurpose repair plastic used for countless applications. Plast-aid chemically fuses to some plastics like PVC ABS & acrylic and mechanically bonds to rough surfaces like wood, concrete, brick. It has a unique curing process that lets you cast glue fill form & becomes a hard...
www.plast-aid.com
The stuff is strong - I used my old auto paint respirator on it. If you can fit your piece on there and fill in, I'd give it a shot - just make sure it is clean and dry. Might not even have to remove the radiator if you can get around it all the way. When you mix the stuff, they tell you to start applying when it reaches a consistency that works for you. I tried to get it coated while it was still very runny (just to "wet" it) and then fill in once it got to the point it wouldn't run.
They have videos showing a repair and then taking it to high PSI on PVC. If it bonds to your plastic, I'd give it a good chance.
captbentley
New member
I have successful “welded” a few plastic radiators using black zip ties and a soldering iron. The zip ties melt along into the radiator. There are also kits
you can find online. i recommend flushing the radiator and removing it to facilitate the repair.
you can find online. i recommend flushing the radiator and removing it to facilitate the repair.
Citydude
Elite Member
I can't remember what the product was called other than JB made it and it was an epoxy. It was 5 years ago.
I just threw that option out to the OP on my experience with plastic repair.
Reading through all the comments, it's looking like a new radiator is needed. Myself, I would clean and epoxy the fitting before dropping the $1K. If it didn't work out, I'm out the cost of the JB and my labor.
My experience is probably different as my tractor isn't a lifeline to survive.
Oaktree
Super Member
Well, the original lasted 14 years in what the OP described as pretty rough treatment, so your comment on "will never hold up" is a bit off. Granted $1k is a bit steep. If I were the OP I'd look around for replacements from other than the dealer. A good radiator shop if you can find one should be able to track down something that will do the job.
Oaktree
Super Member
I see they don't show a price. Is this one of those "if you have to ask..." situations?