PTO driveshaft replacement

[MACflyer]

I recently acquired a used Land Pride rototiller, but the driveshaft is too short for my tractor. Do I need to replace the entire shaft, or can I find just the tractor side and replace one end?
Second, the current driveshaft has a slip clutch. Is the slip clutch part of the driveshaft, and if replaced I would need another driveshaft with slip clutch? Or is the slip clutch removable from the driveshaft, and could be installed on a new driveshaft? It looks to me like it's one complete unit.
Basic rookie questions, but I couldn't find any answers through the search or Google...

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

I recently acquired a used Land Pride rototiller, but the driveshaft is too short for my tractor. Do I need to replace the entire shaft, or can I find just the tractor side and replace one end?
Second, the current driveshaft has a slip clutch. Is the slip clutch part of the driveshaft, and if replaced I would need another driveshaft with slip clutch? Or is the slip clutch removable from the driveshaft, and could be installed on a new driveshaft? It looks to me like it's one complete unit.
Basic rookie questions, but I couldn't find any answers through the search or Google...

Your questions and guesses are all valid answers.

Specifically you would need to take an image of your shaft to confirm if it is one of the combined units or if the clutch was added.

Most times it is cheaper to buy both haves of a shaft used than it is to buy one half new. It is also usually helpful to have an extra around if you ever need a joint or get an implement closer to your tractor.

 

[Roadworthy]

How much too short is the driveshaft? If it's only a couple inches too short you can get a PTO extension or an overrun clutch to put between the tractor and the driveshaft. Otherwise you're probably looking at a whole new driveshaft.

 

[LeoC4]

As I recall (couldn't find the reference), there's a minimum overlap (2/3rds comes to mind) to ensure safety. Starting with a new PTO set, equal amounts are to be cut off both sections.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

How much too short is the driveshaft? If it's only a couple inches too short you can get a PTO extension or an overrun clutch to put between the tractor and the driveshaft. Otherwise you're probably looking at a whole new driveshaft.

Unsure running two clutches on the same shaft is a wise choice.

 

[Thunder chicken]

I had a 1/2 shaft built (old 1” square style) and it was not cheap by the tine you get a yoke, U joint, etc…. That being said, an entire shaft was not cheap either (not in Canada anyways)
My overlap is no where near the 2/3 as mentioned above, right or wrong, it still works, and, having added length to only one side, the joint is not in the middle either, another apparent no-no…. We won’t talk about the shielding.
If you do get another 1/2 shaft, make sure the yokes are ‘timed’/ ‘phased’ correctly.

 

[MACflyer]

Your questions and guesses are all valid answers.

Specifically you would need to take an image of your shaft to confirm if it is one of the combined units or if the clutch was added.

Most times it is cheaper to buy both haves of a shaft used than it is to buy one half new. It is also usually helpful to have an extra around if you ever need a joint or get an implement closer to your tractor.

I attached a picture, I'm not sure if I can pull it off at the yoke?

How much too short is the driveshaft? If it's only a couple inches too short you can get a PTO extension or an overrun clutch to put between the tractor and the driveshaft. Otherwise you're probably looking at a whole new driveshaft.

It's not even close, the two halves overlap by maybe 1/2 inch when I lower the tiller.

So I guess I need a whole new driveshaft. That leaves me wondering if I need to find one with a clutch, or can I pull this clutch off at the yoke and throw it on a new one?

 

[LouNY]

Here's a link to a nice shaft and new clutch;
I like these Bare-Co shafts especially if you are going to use a guard.
These guards are easy to unlatch and slid together to make hooking up the pto easy and also easy to grease.
https://www.bare-co.com/files-pto2002-pto19

They also have all the parts to just rebuild your shaft.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Yeah you could pull it off if you were so inclined and have a ujoint puller already.

Sounds like you need to look around for another shaft; find the shaft and if it doesn't have a clutch add one or split your and swap it so you have a standard pto and the long one with a clutch on it.

 

[mcfarmall]

I was in the same boat with a tiller I got recently. It was cheaper to buy a complete shaft/clutch assembly from agristore.com. They also carry tines for every tiller ever made. I paid $239 for my new assembly.

 

[Bavarian]

In my opinion, that "disc" on your shaft isn't a clutch.
At least not what I know how a clutch looks like

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I just buy a short length, of the right style shaft, and weld it onto what's already there. That gets me to the overlap that I need.

I've never had any problems doing that, it works perfectly...

SR

 

[old and tired]

I have run different lengths of PTO shafts. I think you need 6" over lap and make sure it doesn't bottom out in the raised position. You can buy just the shaft at Agrisupply (inner or outer shaft). I think it was $60 for 6 feet. I've replace them twice and still have a few feet left over.

EDIT: You have to measure to fine the correct one but here is one example:

1527801 Repair External 5 Tube

Agri Supply carries over 26,000 products for your farm, shop, or home including this 59

www.agrisupply.com

Also, this is what a slip clutch looks like, if you mount this you might make the pto drive lone enough...

FD1 PTO Slip Clutch-1-3/8

Use this PTO slip clutch to save wear and tear on your gear box. This slip clutch has a 1-3/8 inch male and female ends and works on PTO shafts up to series 6.

www.agrisupply.com

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Unsure running two clutches on the same shaft is a wise choice.

An over run clutch will just extend your pro. It's not at all like the slip clutch. It will extend your pto one full length. Plus, it is a pick up and go part at a farm store. 8N tractors and many others need them.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I just buy a short length, of the right style shaft, and weld it onto what's already there. That gets me to the overlap that I need.

I've never had any problems doing that, it works perfectly...

SR

I have done that many times. Never a problem.

 

[6string]

I attached a picture, I'm not sure if I can pull it off at the yoke?

It's not even close, the two halves overlap by maybe 1/2 inch when I lower the tiller.

So I guess I need a whole new driveshaft. That leaves me wondering if I need to find one with a clutch, or can I pull this clutch off at the yoke and throw it on a new on. I have purchased PTO shaft assemblies from Agri Supply and have had good results with them and I had to return and swap one once and their customer service dept. was great. I have a 3005 John Deere I till with and I had to cut the shaft really short for it to work and then had to order another to work on my 5105.

 

[DieselBound]

I attached a picture, I'm not sure if I can pull it off at the yoke?

It's not even close, the two halves overlap by maybe 1/2 inch when I lower the tiller.

So I guess I need a whole new driveshaft. That leaves me wondering if I need to find one with a clutch, or can I pull this clutch off at the yoke and throw it on a new one?

If you look closely you'll find that there's a roll/spring pin holding the yoke to the shaft. Just punch it out.

 

[MACflyer]

Thanks everyone. Looks like I can use the clutch and collar/yokes I have and just get new shafts, should be a bit cheaper that way.

 

[old and tired]

So I remembered how I removed the yoke... After driving out the spring pin, clamp the drive line tight in a vise with the yoke facing down and hit the top of the yoke on the outside edges.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

So I remembered how I removed the yoke... After driving out the spring pin, clamp the drive line tight in a vise with the yoke facing down and hit the top of the yoke on the outside edges.

Seems like a hassle and you still have a ujoint with no grease nipple based on the picture. Then again probably the same amount for work to pull the ujoint.