Posthole Digger Posthole Conundrum

[sweettractors]

Dug a whole bunch of really nice 9" x 4' holes for the llama corral today.

Problem is they have to be a full 4' deep and a regular hand porthole digger will not close enough to hold the dry loose dirt.

The wife is threatening to getting my shop vac and have me string 500' of extension cord.

Any ideas on how to save my shop vac and get me out of just saying "Yes Dear " for the next few days ?

We use hand held manual post hole diggers that can be bought at Lowes and most TSC farm stores. Ken Sweet

 

[E/S]

Ill be dammed, the shop vac worked !

Real quick and the boss is happy.

I have attached some pictures of what I am trying to fix.

Thanks for all your input.

E/S

 

[SPYDERLK]

A corner post should have an additional brace -- a diagonal running from just below that horizontal one down and over to the adjacent post to be fastened to it near the ground. Also, loop a wire between the posts just below the horiz brace so they can spread.
larry

 

[Duffster]

A corner post should have an additional brace -- a diagonal running from just below that horizontal one down and over to the adjacent post to be fastened to it near the ground. Also, loop a wire between the posts just below the horiz brace so they can spread.
larry

What would the additional brace accomplish?

Got any pics of what you are talking about?

 

[2manyrocks]

The strongest man made structure is a triangle. Adding a diagonal brace helps transfer the load from the top of the post to ground level at the adjoining post. It's a leverage thing.

I would have never thought anybody would use a shop vac to clean out a post hole until I read this thread. TBN is always good some kind of entertainment.

 

[Duffster]

The strongest man made structure is a triangle. Adding a diagonal brace helps transfer the load from the top of the post to ground level at the adjoining post. It's a leverage thing.

I would have never thought anybody would use a shop vac to clean out a post hole until I read this thread. TBN is always good some kind of entertainment.

Isn't the triangle already there with the use of the "X" made out of wire?

 

[CurlyDave]

What would the additional brace accomplish?

This brace resists the tension in the wire which causes a torque on the post causing the post to lean in the direction of the wire.

If you look at the pictures you will see that the corner posts were "braced" with an X between them and the next post in line in an attempt to strengthen them. Unfortunately theses wires are only strong in tension, and provide no compressive resistance. You need a wooden brace from the top of the corner post to the base of the second post in both fence directions in order to keep the corners upright.

This article illustrates two methods of bracing properly bracing a corner post How to build a good fence for your homestead by Charles Sanders Issue #103

 

[Duffster]

What would the additional brace accomplish?

This brace resists the tension in the wire which causes a torque on the post causing the post to lean in the direction of the wire.

If you look at the pictures you will see that the corner posts were "braced" with an X between them and the next post in line in an attempt to strengthen them. Unfortunately theses wires are only strong in tension, and provide no compressive resistance. You need a wooden brace from the top of the corner post to the base of the second post in both fence directions in order to keep the corners upright.

That is what the horizantal wood brace is for. Which IMO should be at the top of the posts, not near the middle.

This is the same discussion I have had with the old man for the last 20 years.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I agree - there's nothing wrong with the brace design. It doesn't look like the posts were well tamped. The corner post came up and it would do the same thing with a diagonal brace under compression.

 

[Egon]

Good show on the vac job. Glad it worked for you.:thumbsup:

 

[638]

The best corner posts that I have found are railroad ties. A little harder to put in the ground, but I have never had one come out.

 

[Chilly807]

One thing I've learned is that the upper end of the diagonal brace needs to be above the top wire. If it isn't, the wire will try to pivot the post around the brace and the end comes out of the ground if you have enough tension on the wire.

Sean

 

[CurlyDave]

After doing some research on fence corners, I stand corrected. The horizontal top rail plus the wire X is an acceptable corner for a wire fence.

 

[pitt_md]

If this is for a corral then forget about it. Dig it as deep as you can and plant the posts. You were not really thinking about using a shopvac were you?

Holy mother....I guess I should have read all the posts. I have now seen everything!

 

[pat32rf]

Up here Ontario hydro is starting to set their poles in holes that have plastic culverts in them. They then pack the area between the pole and culvert with sand. When the pole needs replacing they bring in a vac truck to suck out the sand and plunk in a new pole without having to drill a new hole. In rock they bore a hole and forget about the plastic...
I have never seen a wire fence without the diagonal brace in the corners.

 

[955er]

What would the additional brace accomplish?

This brace resists the tension in the wire which causes a torque on the post causing the post to lean in the direction of the wire.

If you look at the pictures you will see that the corner posts were "braced" with an X between them and the next post in line in an attempt to strengthen them. Unfortunately theses wires are only strong in tension, and provide no compressive resistance. You need a wooden brace from the top of the corner post to the base of the second post in both fence directions in order to keep the corners upright.

This article illustrates two methods of bracing properly bracing a corner post How to build a good fence for your homestead by Charles Sanders Issue #103

Exactly the way I did our horse pasture 7 years ago. They had a free catalogue at TSC about tensile fencing that described this exact process. They all still look perfect. Corners and braces 48" with redi-mix. Line posts at 36" with no cement.

 

[rus_geek]

Looking at the pictures of what you're replacing, that corner looks to be wider than 90 degrees. That can be a little harder to brace and not have it lean into the corner. You may have better luck using a double corner post (one for each side with non-tensioned wire between). Or adding an additional brace splitting the angle of the corner.

-rus-

 

[Ford850]

I bought a newer style post hole digger at Home Depot. It might be a ridgid brand, since it's orange. But it uses a different design which has 2 hinge points and the handles only spread hald the distance to open the shovels. Works great for deep holes.

 

[two_bit_score]

I agree - there's nothing wrong with the brace design. It doesn't look like the posts were well tamped. The corner post came up and it would do the same thing with a diagonal brace under compression.

I agree. Looks like the original builder tried to rely on a sack of sackcrete to hold it in the ground.

Here is another good site on fence building:
http://www.staytuff.com/build/

 

[E/S]

I bought a newer style post hole digger at Home Depot. It might be a ridgid brand, since it's orange. But it uses a different design which has 2 hinge points and the handles only spread hald the distance to open the shovels. Works great for deep holes.

Thanks.
I will check it out.

E/S