Post Trenching Trench Cleanout - MicroHoe

[J_J]

If the bucket is to be used for trenching, the body of the bucket can be as narrow as you want, and longer so that the attaching plate never has to get in the ground.

This is a bucket that I built from a kit. The backside of the backet is 4 in.

 

[BobRip]

That looks good. Where did you get the kit?

Bob Rip

 

[J_J]

From a guy in Canada, who laser cuts parts. You could use any bucket as a model and make it the size that you want.

 

[RegL]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Another thought would be, after trenching with the chain trencher, to run down the trench line with something like that yellow scoop at the depth you want.

I also have one of those old U-Haul rental trenchers . It digs with a spinning wheel with carbide teeth in the forward direction. It has a rubber flap that the dirt is thrown over and is deposited about 6 in from the trench. It can dig just about as fast as you can push it. Pushing is the tough part. I was thinking of modifying it so the PT could pick it up and provide the push power. )</font>

That sounds like the PT wheel trencher or the older model stump grinder with fixed teeth. ( Reversed of course ).

 

[J_J]

No, is not like the old trencher/stumpgrinder. It digs a trench with PT driving backward. The wheel can not be reversed. It has no flap to deposit dirt away from the trench. The teeth are fixed. It does makes a decent trench

 

[BobRip]

Well I built the microhoe. I used 5/16 inch plate steel for the sides. I picked up all of the steel at a recycling yard for $25, and I still have some left. It is heavy, my guess is 50 pounds. I will attach some pictures.
Pardon my welds.
Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Another picture. I have a tongue sticking out the front. I put two layers of steel here, so hopefully it will not bend.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

I still need to sand blast and paint it.

Bob Rip

 

[J_J]

Bob, Sure looks sturdy enough. What size is your box tubing, and how wide is the assembly in the trench? How will you control the depth? If you leave it in float, it might dig more than you want. Let me offer this suggestion. Put some adjustable wings on the part in the ground to limit the depth. Just roll backwards until the bucket is full, and you should have a nice even trench.

 

[BobRip]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bob, Sure looks sturdy enough. What size is your box tubing, and how wide is the assembly in the trench? How will you control the depth? If you leave it in float, it might dig more than you want. Let me offer this suggestion. Put some adjustable wings on the part in the ground to limit the depth. Just roll backwards until the bucket is full, and you should have a nice even trench. )</font>

The box tubing is 2X2 and fits nicely in the 2 inch receiver. A good find. I found three 4 foot pieces at the recycling yard.
The bucket is 3 inches wide, so it is good for probably even a 4 inch pipe since the pipe is smaller at the bottom.
I had actually thought about some wings. I could put a wing on a pipe clamp and slide it up and down to adjust the depth. (I just thought of that). Weld the clamp to a pipe. Maybe you have a better thought. I hate to drill the tube.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to make changes before I paint it, it's a lot easier to weld that way.

Bob Rip

 

[J_J]

You could weld some bolts to the side up near the top. and make the wings so they will slide up and down. Once set, just tighten the locknuts on the bolts.

 

[J_J]

While you are at it, why not make a gizmo to backfill the trench, something like a V shaped flange to slide the dirt back in the trench, and level things out. You might could use one of those mound makers that is an accessories for the Troybuilt tillers.

 

[BobRip]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You could weld some bolts to the side up near the top. and make the wings so they will slide up and down. Once set, just tighten the locknuts on the bolts. )</font>

I can't quite visualize that. Could you explain it a little more.

Bob Rip

 

[J_J]

This accessory is hooked on the back of the tiller to mound up the dirt that was just tilled. Otherwise, it makes nice round hills and valleys for the water to run off. A simple V scraper will also work, laying horizontally on the ground and pushed or pulled, depending on the way you mount it.

 

[J_J]

The wings would look like this. 8 in angle iron with a slot cut in one side and bolted on, one on each side. In the float made. the trencher would sit on the top of the ground and limit your depth, and smooth out the top of the trench.

I haven't figured out how to get a drawing in these post.

 

[KentT]

Here's a picture of a Troy-Bilt Hiller-Furrower

 

[J_J]

Thanks Kent.

Yep, that's it, once mounted, just drag it over your trench to push the dirt to the center and mound it , because it will continue to settle.

 

[BobRip]

I took a picture of a PT hydraulic drawing once and uploaded it. This worked pretty well.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Thanks Kent. That looks pretty good. I have been using the 4 in 1 bucket, but this probably works better. I will think about it.

Bob Rip

 

[pajoube]

Very nice job. Along with you and J.J.s idea of a trench filler I think you have the project covered.
Would like to see this in operation if possible.
PJ