Mowing possible belly mower problem

[mar11]

Hi guys, I've been reading this forum for quite some time and it helped me in my selection of my Bx23. but I may have a problem- not sure. I recently reinstalled my belly mower and it went on really hard! I had to use a plastic mallet to force the bar into position in the fulcrum area. if I used the lever by itself the unit would come forward out of the fulcrum- seems wrong to me-- too tight, like I forced it and should not have had to. Ideas or experiences? thanks /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif [*]bx23 belly mower

 

[rosey]

NEVER force anything....sounds as if you did something wrong..I'd suggest that you read and study the owners manual again. While putting on the belly mower has taken much patience, (the hardest part being getting the PTO shaft installed correctly)I have not had to force it. Sounds as if your PTO shaft may not be seated properly. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[mar11]

My thoughts exactly-- someone was here who wanted to help-- but it didn't seem right to me. the belly mower is on - but has not been used since I too do not beleive in forcing things, specially on a tractor as well thought out and built as this. One thing though- if I were to try to move the lever without the belly mower attachment - it still wants to move out of the fulcrum. I'll try again next weekend from scratch-- thanks

 

[gsxr1100]

Holly cow batman--I thought it was me being Polish! The PTO also drives me nuts.... almost all the time.

The best is trying to see if the collar has locked...I can never tell....then my OCD kicks in /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It takes 5x as long as the loader or BH...

 

[sandyc]

If it were me I would drop the mower and reinstall before using. Make sure that the mower is set at "00" and that the rear pins are installed properly. Kake sure that the pto shaft is fully installed and that the collar has snapped closed.
It sounds as if the pto drive shaft is pushing against the front bar hanger....the shaft might be twisted a bit out of line or there might be dirt on the spline. I have found that wd40 works great and doesn't leave residue that will attract more dirt.

 

[mar11]

I spoke with my dealer today and he claims that a number of tractors do require some pretty firm persuasion ( even a mallet ) to get the belly mower on. He also recommended doing it over just to check things out. He said there have been units in his shop with some alignment issues for the front end of the mower attachment.
Let you all know over the weekend.

 

[jrlichina]

The MMM setup is very simple and it shouldn't be hard to install. My BX MMM goes on almost too easy, you definately have either something misaligned or are installing in an order that makes it difficult to latch. Check all the brackets and make sure they are not bent or just made wrong. Then check the installation order.

 

[bam]

The MMM shouldn't required a mallet to install. Something isn't aligned or adjusted properly. I'd take it back to the dealer and have them set it up again. I'd also question a dealer that tells you that a mallet may be required. Sounds like a dealer that doesn't know what they are doing.

 

[Junkman]

I use a small mallet to install the drive shaft on my MMM. I can get the collar locked in place, but it is difficult to slide onto the shaft. I have lubed it numerous times and have cleaned it both before and after lubing. It is clean as possible and properly lubed. The only way that the drive shaft is going to go on fully is with some gentle persuasion of the rubber mallet. It might be my old age, but I find the location almost impossible to get at and still have mobility to put the drive shaft. Sometimes if it doesn't move, get a bigger mallet!! I have no problems getting the mower front bracket snapped in place like the original poster....

 

[KRECKER]

Junkman,
I agree with you about the a little tap. Mine is the same way, sometimes it goes on easy and some times it doesn't. It has got to be an engineering nightmare to try to design something that will be easy to change out for everyone who buys this type of set up.

 

[at_obuk]

I haven't had the guts yet to take off my MMM. I have read other posts like this in the past. Seems to be one of the few defects in the BX23. However I'm going to have to do it soon to put the snow blower on. Not looking forward to it. I'm going to keep an eye on this line, see if more ideas come up. Just don't like the idea of using a mallet of any sort.
Dealer is coming to deliver the SB so I'll also ask him.

Good Luck

Eric

 

[paparammer]

The MMM is a pain to me also. Although I haven't had to use a mallet on the front end, it does come out of the fulcrum points more often than not and is very exasperating trying to get it to stay put deep enough in so that I can get it to hook up. A rubber mallet would probably be a much simpler solution. It's probably only the thickness of the coat of paint causing the problem so I expect it will improve with time.

With regard to the driveshaft, that's even more of a pain since it's keyed to only go on in one position. I've found the easiest way is to first take the rear detachable portion of the driveshaft and fumble with the PTO to figure out which way it needs to be aligned and then connect the shaft together and turn it to the needed rotation and try to connect it. Note the "try". Even then it seems the collar will pop just as it starts to slide on more often than not. It's not something I look forward to.

 

[surfran]

I haven't given this much thought until this post, but I have noticed that some times mine is easy and others difficult. I don't do it that often so I haven't used a specific sequence to date. But as I sit here and think about it, I think I know the difference for me when it's hard and when it's easy (well it's never easy, but easier /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

Like many if I have the loader on my BX1800 I will usually use it to lift the front end off the ground to install/remove the MMM.

I have found that if I do this and hook up the rear lift points then try to hook up the front (with front in the air still) that it is much more difficult to attach the unit.

I believe this to be because I am lifting the entire deck against the back attachment points as well as lifting it higher because the front end is further off the ground. (This is the hard way)


I believe the easiest way is to lower the front end back down if using the loader (once the deck in underneath of course). Next connect the front end, then connect the rear lift points, then connect the drive shaft.

In this order, when connecting the front end, you are only lifting 1/2 of the deck as the rear is definitely on the ground. I would try this method to see if it fixes your problem.

I have mixed feelings on using the loader, it definitely makes it easier to slide deck in and out, but gets in the way when attaching the front unless you start it up another time to lift it totally overhead.......so many choices /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Good luck and hope it's not something seriously wrong.

 

[kevinj]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( that's even more of a pain since it's keyed to only go on in one position. I've found the easiest way is to first take the rear detachable portion of the driveshaft and fumble with the PTO )</font>

I assemble the shaft the push the deck under the tractor.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( it does come out of the fulcrum points more often than not)</font>

This can only happen if the pivot shaft is not back into the front frame all the way. It may take a tap if it fits tight.

 

[Junkman]

I have learned that the hoe is the last thing to come off when dealing with the MMM. I raise the front end with the loader and then put down the outriggers to get the rear up in the air. Slide the mower under the machine or remove from under the machine and then put the machine back down. If I am installing it, I find that a little nudge either way will get everything aligned. While it is up in the air, I usually will get the drive shaft aligned and installed. It takes lowering the outriggers slightly to do this. I can reach everything much easier this way.

 

[bam]

That's a good idea. I always use the loader to lift the front end, but never thought of leaving the bh on to raise the rear.

As far as the mallet is concern, I still believe if everything is aligned properly by the dealer and you have the MMM center properly during the re-install, it should go on smoothly.

 

[Junkman]

Alignment has nothing to do with the drive shaft going on smoothly. That is completely independent of any alignment of the mower deck. The only alignment adjustments on the deck are at the front bracket that swivels upward and locks. The rear brackets are only for up and down adjustments. I believe that the tolerances in the spline of the drive shaft are too close for it to fit on easily. If it goes on easy, then it will come off easy, which Kubota doesn't want to happen by accident.

 

[paparammer]

<font color="blue"> </font> This can only happen if the pivot shaft is not back into the front frame all the way. It may take a tap if it fits tight. <font color="black"> </font>

I wish that were so. The problem is that, even though the shaft is initially fully into the slot in the frame, the fit is so tight on the sides that in effect it pivots on a point within the side metal to metal contact rather than at the bar in the rear.

 

[bam]

Are you using a mallet for the pto? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I believe the original question was: use a plastic mallet to force the bar into position in the fulcrum area. My alignment comment was addressing this issue.

 

[kevinj]

I can see your point but if it is seated back and down in the pocket when you pull the mower link tight it should pull the lock bar deeper into the tractor mount. If it is so tight you can't rotate it at all without it poping off the tractor then I would say one of the ears on the tractor frame may be bent or the lock made wrong.