POLE BARN ATTIC WORK

/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #1  

KB9UDE

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Apr 23, 2006
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978
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North of Tower Hill, IL
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John Deere 4066r John Deere 2025r
Hey guys,

We are getting started working on the electric in our new 40x64 pole barn. I need to run all the overhead electric by walking around in the trusses that are spread 8 feet apart. What size lumber do I need to lay across the trusses so that I can walk the length of the building? I was thinking 2x10 or 2x12. I am 300 plus pounds and dont feel like it breaking and falling almost 20 feet so I am asking for advice.


I will be running EMT conduit up the walls and through the attic areas.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #2  
we make walking boards with 1/4 inch osb with 2x2s in a grid in between and glue the tension is held in cheek buy the bottom piece of osb.....

you can make 16feet from one 1/4 inch sheet of osb and a few 2x4s riped down ..

in my they are stronger and lighter than 2x12 in my opinion we made a set of lawn tractor ramps for a pickup with this idea

o and try it a foot off the ground first....
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #3  
Have you considered working off of a rolling scaffolding?

That's how I would do it.

I am not sure I would be comfortable with lumber for planks on an 8" span, for a guy your size.

They would likely work, but all you need is one bad one, or one to move, and your on the way down.

I made a misstep walking trusses, and fell 10' to a concrete floor this year, I don't recommend it.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK
  • Thread Starter
#4  
We dont have concrete poured yet or I would be using scaffolding. I need these boards in place for future use anyway for in the future for after we install the ceiling
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #5  
In our attic we just cut up some pieces of OSB up and moved it where we needed it...We're not exactlay "light" either...:ashamed:
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK
  • Thread Starter
#6  
That works fine in a 2ft on center stick built building but I am working with 8ft spans between the trusses.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #7  
I'm about 235 lbs, and even a 2x12 at that span would probably be too bouncy for my liking.

Have you considered checking a local tool rental place and see if they have aluminum scaffolding? Like this:

Werner Scaffolding

Actually after you consider buying a lot of 2x12's this might be a good choice for you to purchase for yourself. Maybe find one used, or like I mentioned, rent one if possible. For what you are doing, if you bought one it might actually pay for itself, or you could re-sell it after you are done, etc.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #8  
If scaffolding is out, I would bite the bullet and buy an 18' or 20' step ladder. They are not cheap, but falling 20 feet isn't either. You could recoup a portion (most) of the ladder's cost by selling it on CL when your work is completed.

Just my :2cents:

Steve
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #9  
I would opt for the stepladder, too. You will be getting back up there once and awhile and you will put it to use. I have 10 foot ceilings in my barn [about 10.5'] and I have an eight foot and a 12 foot ladder. I think the 12 foot cost $175, and it's a heavy duty fiberglass class A ladder.....worth every penny when you need it. Works great for working outside on the barn and house, too. The ground gets harder as you get older...:) I also have 4 foot centers with just two by four runners to walk on. Also have lights on pull chains and electric duplexes the whole length up there. [ old retired guy ]
 
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/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #10  
Why use a step ladder here?

You can use an extension ladder.

More stable, easier to move, cheaper, and more useful.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #11  
I used scaffolding when I built my barn. No concrete floor at the time. I had wheels that let me move it around without have to take the whole thing down. Of course when it was tall I had to roll slowly. My dirt floor was pretty even though. We were having to reach 20 feet when installing rafters.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #12  
i would buy /barrow or rent a aluim walking plank, or i would lay the rung of a ext ladder down with a 2x10 on top of that. i fell 10 feet broke my back in 6 places along with my wrist and neck. 8 years later im still paying for it. and feeling it too:mad:
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #13  
I would rent a rough terrain scissor lift if at all possible. Other than that, an aluminum pick board. They have them in sizes up to 20' plus.

I would strongly suggest wearing a safety harness and tying off when you are up...regardless of what you use.

When I wired my barn (no conduit) I drilled a hole through a baseball, passed a nylon rope through the hole and pitched the ball up over the rafters, then taped the romex to the rope and pulled my wires. Of course I still had plenty of trips up and down the extension ladder but it saved quite a bit of time.

Good luck and be safe.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #14  
Why use a step ladder here?

You can use an extension ladder.

More stable, easier to move, cheaper, and more useful.

My thinking was the step ladder would allow the OP to "work" between the trusses should the need arise. An extension ladder would definitely be cheaper.

Steve
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #15  
I ran a lot of conduit in building steel back in an earlier life. An extension ladder is fine, but a pain to move from place to place, and about useless if anything has to be done between the trusses. You can drag a step ladder along as you run the conduit. We used to use roll around crank up, hydralic, or air lifts [outlawed] back before the self propelled scissor lifts became availible. If you want something very safe and want to get the job done quickly, rent yourself a four wheel gas/diesel/or electric JLG boom lift. [JLG is actually a brand name, but that is what we called them.] Remember, money may be important....but the ground is hard...and it gets harder as you grow older... If I remember correctly, JLG stands for John Lewis Grove, one of the Grove brothers, that broke off from the Grove company that makes Grove mobile cranes...and went into the boom man-lift business..... NICE units..!!!
 
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/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #16  
In one of OP's reply's he mentioned wanting to get up there for other things from time to time.

NOTE TO SELF: This is why I would not put trusses 8' O.C. 4' max.

I think that would have been 5 more trusses. $500bucks?


Wedge
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #17  
In one of OP's reply's he mentioned wanting to get up there for other things from time to time.

NOTE TO SELF: This is why I would not put trusses 8' O.C. 4' max.

I think that would have been 5 more trusses. $500bucks?


Wedge

Don't forget all the time, labor, and materials to put up all those purlins to span the roof trusses, and ceiling.

I always use 2' centers, have yet to regret it.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #18  
We dont have concrete poured yet or I would be using scaffolding. I need these boards in place for future use anyway for in the future for after we install the ceiling

lay some plywood or osb on the ground, and roll the scaffold on it. I wired my barn before concrete floor by using step ladder.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #19  
I'd just get a step ladder. I've known a couple of big guys that have taken falls. Not pretty. One slip, and you may never be able to do much of anything.
 
/ POLE BARN ATTIC WORK #20  
A 2x10 or 2x12 will be very bouncy across an 8ft opening. I'm only 155lbs and I would not be crossing that 20ft above the floor. You will need to beef up the boards, double them or use other materials if you need to leave them up there. Now if you're talking a 4x12, that would work and be rock solid but very heavy to get up there. You could also put the lumber on edge, e.g. a couple 2x6's but that only leaves you 3" or so to stand on - not enough as you could easily mis-step. Good luck and be careful whatever you decide.
 
 
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