Plowing Mishap

   / Plowing Mishap #11  
I am not a fabricator, so your work is out of my league. I do plow with an SSQA plow, and I will say that it was probably best that the plate gave out rather than something on the fel.
On the rare occasion that I have to push back snow, I try to take several smaller bites to move it.
 
   / Plowing Mishap #12  
The next question is on the tractors ssqa, looking at them from the side, are they (left and right sides) flat on the same plane - or do they "agree" with each other if you lower it down to the shop floor.
This is another failure point involving a connection problem between the tractor and an implement that's fairly common. Basically the l&r sides become "out of time" because the tube connecting the 2 sides has twisted from the incident.
Check that out.
 
   / Plowing Mishap #13  
On the positive side, I'd wheel off the paint and re-use it to cook burgers for the neighborhood. But as a snowplow interface, no way. Here is the QA kit I bought for my 80 loader. It should work for any width of loader arms via the adjustable cross rod (which syncs the cylinders). Even my bucket level indicator hooked right up. electric / momentary 3rd function gives me angle. I lock out the arm lift and use curl to raise & lower the blade. Now i have bucket, forks, post hold digger, plow, and tree puller options without any tools required.

Notice that I didn't need the travel extender multiplier hinges that newer loaders usually come equipped with.
 

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   / Plowing Mishap #14  
Yup, 1/4" plate is way too weak.

That plate is designed to be welded onto the back of a bucket or something that has its own structural support.

I'd straighten that out, And weld something stronger to it on the plow side to prevent that. A piece of channel Iron, or angle iron, or 4x4 steel tubing....just whatever I fancied in my scrap steel pile. But Kubota MX is too much tractor for 1/4" SSQA plate
 
   / Plowing Mishap
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Yeah I should’ve known better, I got the plate off Craigslist and should’ve paid more attention to the thickness beforehand, you live and learn I guess. I was a little too excited to try it out, I’ve been plowing with a bucket for years and it takes forever. I’m going to bend it back and beef it up for now, but any other ideas on a better way to connect these things to the tractor? I’m not quite sure what I’m looking at on that John Deere
 
   / Plowing Mishap
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Or I guess maybe some links to some other threads with setups that have worked for people?
 
   / Plowing Mishap #17  
Do you have pallet forks?

I took the pallet forks off of the frame and used the pallet fork carrier to attach the plow. The bottom of the pallet for frame is some heavy wall tube. I made the mounts in such a way that that when I take the plow off I can put the forks back on.

You can click the link in my signature for snowplow install.
 
   / Plowing Mishap #18  
On the positive side, I'd wheel off the paint and re-use it to cook burgers for the neighborhood. But as a snowplow interface, no way. Here is the QA kit I bought for my 80 loader. It should work for any width of loader arms via the adjustable cross rod (which syncs the cylinders). Even my bucket level indicator hooked right up. electric / momentary 3rd function gives me angle. I lock out the arm lift and use curl to raise & lower the blade. Now i have bucket, forks, post hold digger, plow, and tree puller options without any tools required.

Notice that I didn't need the travel extender multiplier hinges that newer loaders usually come equipped with.
That looks like a prety crummy setup. Does that square tube scrape the ground when the plow is down? Does that grab hook unhook when the chain comes loose?
 
   / Plowing Mishap #19  
Not at all. The tube gives me a trailer hitch stub when I pull the 2 pins from the plow mount (Like most folks, I don't generally plow snow in the Summer when I get the boat out of the shed). I prefer to see the hitch connect while looking forward instead of the owl technique favored by many.

The Made in USA hook never comes loose, un-done, falls off, melts, evaporates, or goes South or tries to return to the West when I drop the plow to attack the snow.

You must have missed the part where I lock out the loader arms with the stalk valve control pin and use only the curl control to raise & lower the plow. The arms are set so the tube never gets close to the ground. About 20" also gives me just the right lift & drop range plus the perfect plow pitch angle for the rubber strip to squeegee my driveway without chattering on a dry spot.
 
   / Plowing Mishap #20  
Here is one I built that I have been using for almost 4 seasons and am very happy with. I used a concept shown by TractorNH and Chim also built one. Mine is perhaps opposite from yours - stronger than needed. 5/16" plate welded onto a sturdy frame.

P1000299.JPG




gg
 
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