Plow Mount-Chain Float or Hydraulic Float

[dkhntr04]

I am going to start building a plow mount for my McCormick CTV28 within the next few days. I'll be running an old 6' Westin plow from 1950's Jeep that I will be widening to around 80-84" to fit the wheel track on my new machine. I used the same plow last season on my Kubota B2400. On the B24000, I made a chain type mount where the plow was lifted by a cylinder via a chain to allow some float. I did not have a hydraulic valve with a float position on the Kubota. My new McCormick has a FEL, and I will be using the FEL valve that has a float position for lifting the plow.

What would be your preference, hydraulic float or a chain float? I know hydraulic float will allow me to set the blade at a fixed height off the ground without the load pushing the plow upwards when the loader valve is in the regular neutral position. Beyond that, I don't know what if any benefit I'd have using hydraulic float over a chain float setup. For what it's worth, the plow is my secondary snow removal device. I'll be using it to bust drifts on my wind-blown driveway and for light snows where using either my 80" 2-stage Farm King blower or my 6' single stage v-style blower are impractical. The mount will be attached to the frame, I will not be going the FEL mounted plow route.

Any and all inputs are appreciated. Thanks :thumbsup:

 

[JasG]

We have a blade on the front of out backhoe at work. We have to use the loader float and it sucks. I have used a chain set up in the past on a tractor loader and would much prefer it. Actually if I were to make my own I would set it up with a chain float and be able to use the "dump" to be able to when needed put extra pressure on the blade for scraping. In other word I would have it so by angling my attachment linkage that at some point it would push down on the blade linkage/frame.

The problems with the loader float idea are #1 the weight of the loader arms is now on the blade, which lightens the front end. When you angle the blade you can not push as much snow without the front of the machine getting pushed sideways. Even under light loads we have to turn the wheels into the push a lot more than we had to in the past.

The 2nd issue is as you push, the heavier the push the lighter the front end gets. With our current set up more often than not the front wheels aren't doing much when we get to the ends of the parking lot.

Really both problems are related to not having enough weight on the front due to the loader being in float.

 

[RickB]

Chain X2.

 

[Gizmo2]

I tried the hydraulic float years ago when I first made my snow plow/blade setup...Did not like it and switched it over to chain lift. Also tied the loader arm mounted blade first, what a mess that was and a BIG PITA.
1) Hydraulic float did not let the blade float fast enough, I was either leaving snow or digging too much dirt. One bump under the blade...4 ft later the blade was back down leaving snow the previous 4 ft.
2) Bump the joystick or for whatever other reason the hydraulics comes out of float mode you now have a bulldozer, good for dirt not good for snow.
3) Stick the plow blade/frame in a snow bank and there you will sit. With the chain lift you can lower the lift take more slack out of the chain, lift the blade higher and go about your merry way.
4) Too much down pressure (out of float) and the next thing you know the front of the tractor is coming off the ground and no traction.

 

[Smalljobs]

I've had a few winters now with my own Meyer swap as shown. When using float, the entire weight on the two shoes is the moldboard plus the A-frame plus the loader arms. With a chain float the weight on the shoes is less I think the float will be easier.

I felt there was too much weight and never felt quite comfortable with allowing it to float, especially on gravel. The Meyer, bought new, was previously on a Nissan Pathfinder and had fairly small shoes. This year I replaced the two small shoes with much larger ones.

Time will tell......

 

[Gizmo2]

I've had a few winters now with my own Meyer swap as shown. When using float, the entire weight on the two shoes is the moldboard plus the A-frame plus the loader arms. With a chain float the weight on the shoes is less I think the float will be easier.

I felt there was too much weight and never felt quite comfortable with allowing it to float, especially on gravel. The Meyer, bought new, was previously on a Nissan Pathfinder and had fairly small shoes. This year I replaced the two small shoes with much larger ones.

Time will tell......

Looks like the same blade as my new plow I setup last year.

 

[Smalljobs]

Gizme - yes it's the same. Nice job on your part!

By preserving the original tubular A-frame, lift arm, and chain you've maintained the OEM float.

Once I tore off a Meyer shoe last spring, I decided to beef them up. We welded on larger tubes right next to the old ones, and simply inserted the much larger shoes.

There are benefits to having no chain because I can control the moldboard angle of attack and I can pile it really high. I guess it's six of one or half dozen of another.

 

[JB4310]

What would be your preference, hydraulic float or a chain float? I know hydraulic float will allow me to set the blade at a fixed height off the ground without the load pushing the plow upwards when the loader valve is in the regular neutral position. Beyond that, I don't know what if any benefit I'd have using hydraulic float over a chain float setup. For what it's worth, the plow is my secondary snow removal device. I'll be using it to bust drifts on my wind-blown driveway and for light snows where using either my 80" 2-stage Farm King blower or my 6' single stage v-style blower are impractical. The mount will be attached to the frame, I will not be going the FEL mounted plow route.

Any and all inputs are appreciated. Thanks :thumbsup:

Mine is chain lifted, never tried it the other way, but as I suspected, according to others here, using the valves float feature does not react fast enough to allow the plow to freely follow the contour of the ground.

So my recommendation would normally be chain float. But only because you say this a secondary tool to bust drifts etc. You may want to go with the rigid lift link. I've personally never felt the need for it (well maybe occasionally), but the main advantage is the ability to apply down pressure, so in your case that could come in handy, plus ramming snow drifts with a plow in a fixed height could be an advantage as well, prevent it from riding up.

It would be fairly easy to swap between a chain and a rigid link, I've thought about it myself since I'm using a DA cylinder, but like I said no real need for me.

JB

 

[Gizmo2]

I guess it's six of one or half dozen of another.

Yepper, All about personal preference. I am sure it also has a lot to do with the surface you are plowing and the amount of snow you get.

 

[Smalljobs]

The down pressure is important for me: I had to suddenly remove the bucket and add the plow two weeks ago when we had 12" wet snow. I'm in the middle of trenching a water line with my backhoe so I'm using the down pressure on the Meyer to lift the front wheels off the ground! I'm careful such that the load is not on the single pivot bolt but rather on the whole rigid A-frame I built.

By the way - I have no welder. The entire plow frame was first made up with plywood and then brought to the weldshop. They tacked it all and one final fit was made before final weld/paint.

 

[zzvyb6]

I'd never use anything but float. Sometimes you need downforce to break ice and clumps of snow, especially when backing up with the plow down to clear areas near the garage doors.

If your float doesn't float your boat, fix it by replumbing it. You need float for good bucket action, too.

If your 'float' raises the front of the tractor, but some weight on it. You'll get a lot smoother ice-free driveway.

 

[Gizmo2]

The down pressure is important for me: I had to suddenly remove the bucket and add the plow two weeks ago when we had 12" wet snow. I'm in the middle of trenching a water line with my backhoe so I'm using the down pressure on the Meyer to lift the front wheels off the ground! I'm careful such that the load is not on the single pivot bolt but rather on the whole rigid A-frame I built.

By the way - I have no welder. The entire plow frame was first made up with plywood and then brought to the weldshop. They tacked it all and one final fit was made before final weld/paint.

WHAT, no welder? Got to be tough.

 

[Gizmo2]

I'd never use anything but float. Sometimes you need downforce to break ice and clumps of snow, especially when backing up with the plow down to clear areas near the garage doors.

I drop my ballast box and drag it over those spots, cleans em right up.

 

[Smalljobs]

Should buy welder in future to repair hot rod, tractor, backhoe, chipper, loader, etc. etc.

 

[nybirdman]

Mine is chain but it is also very heavy 8ft. on a 7000lb tractor.It also is set up with a pivot point so it can follow the contours.It also is on a QA plate so easy to reinstall the bucket if needed.

 

[JB4310]

I'd never use anything but float. Sometimes you need downforce to break ice and clumps of snow, especially when backing up with the plow down to clear areas near the garage doors.

If your float doesn't float your boat, fix it by replumbing it. You need float for good bucket action, too.

If your 'float' raises the front of the tractor, but some weight on it. You'll get a lot smoother ice-free driveway.

I use a 72" rear blade for pulling snow from in front of doors, no down pressure (except the extra weight I put on it) but the blade is in the correct position, not like when back dragging. Plus with the HTL I can manipulate the cutting angle and really tear up any ice I have encountered so far.

JB

 

[dkhntr04]

Thanks for all the replies! I've decided to stay with the chain float, I plowed all of last year with that setup and had no issues. The hydraulic float speed issue that was brought up eliminated my interest in hydraulic. My yard and driveway is all fairly soft gravel, so down pressure for scraping ice wouldn't work out well either.

I actually got most of the building done today, hopefully I'll get it done early this week. I'll make sure to post pictures when I am done. I'm also going for a quick attach design with the mounts using two 2" receivers on the tractor side to hopefully allow me to remove and attach the plow in 5 minutes or so in case I want to put the FEL on for moving piles or for lifting duties around the shop. The receivers will also be the mounting point for a grill guard when the loader is on (my tractor doesn't have a factory guard).


Thanks again!

 

[JB4310]

I actually got most of the building done today, hopefully I'll get it done early this week. I'll make sure to post pictures when I am done. I'm also going for a quick attach design with the mounts using two 2" receivers on the tractor side to hopefully allow me to remove and attach the plow in 5 minutes or so in case I want to put the FEL on for moving piles or for lifting duties around the shop. The receivers will also be the mounting point for a grill guard when the loader is on (my tractor doesn't have a factory guard).


Thanks again!

I would like to see the pics. The 2 in receiver is a good idea, just use the thickest wall you can find. I Lucked out with mine and have just enough room to leave the undercarriage on the tractor and still be able to mount the loader. My lift slips on the weight bracket and just clears the grill guard as well. I put 2 bolts in the lift frame thru the weight bracket just to stiffen it up, but they really are not needed for chain float/ no down pressure.

Those are the only 2 bolts I need to deal with to go from plow to loader.
2 bolts, 2 pins and 4 hyd lines that's it. I could change the bolts to pins so it would be no tools needed. but I can still change over in 5 - 10 minutes.

JB

 

[KennyG]

Looking at these replies, I'm thinking there might be a preference for chain on gravel, float on concrete. Does that make sense?

 

[roman]

JB, nice pic with your rig ready to make the jump! Thats good looking setup you have.

KennyG, I would agree. I can see where concrete-paved is better suited for float. I have chain and my drive is gravel with subtle topographic features. I also move snow across the crowned gravel town road. Our road agent wouldnt be happy if I dug up the road.