Pilot light question

[2manyrocks]

The thermocouple is a safety device. It is intended to keep gas from flowing out in your house if there's no flame at the burner. If you don't heat the thermocouple when starting your pilot light, the gas isn't supposed to flow through it.

 

[schmism]

The thermocouple is a safety device. It is intended to keep gas from flowing out in your house if there's no flame at the burner. If you don't heat the thermocouple when starting your pilot light, the gas isn't supposed to flow through it.

yes thats what the little red button is for. to bypass the thermocouple.

so when you hold the red button down (yes you have to hold it down continuously) you only open the pilot light valve. so the air only leaks out at a slow rate. (the rate it takes to keep the pilot light lit)


the torch method thats mentioned does 2 things. 1) it heats the thermocouple so that it opens the "big valve" 2) it acts as the pilot light to lite the gas coming from the "big valve"

as soon as the pilot light is lit and has warmed the thermocouple for a few seconds (10-15) you can let go of the red button. if your actively calling for heat (at that moment), then the big valve will be open (due to the warm thermocouple) and as soon as you let go of the red button the larger burner will kick on.

 

[Travelover]

Propane is heavier than air. It tends to run into floor drains and causing problems later. If you can get to the pilot assy, you could heat the thermocouple with a blow torch, then release the button and turn the valve to on. BE SURE TO KEEP THE TORCH ON THE THERMOCOUPLE WHILE DOING THIS. iT'S NOT AS DANGEROUS AS IT SOUNDS, JUST KEEP THE TORCH ON THE THERMOCOUPLE until the burner lights. Boy am I going to get it for posting this.
Max

I used to use this technique with my old gas furnace every fall when I re-lit the pilot. Once the main burner lights, it pulls out all the air from the lines as the gas rushes to the burner. Once it is shut off, it resorts to normal operation and the pilot stays lit. Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see the downside.

 

[Richard]

so when you hold the red button down (yes you have to hold it down continuously) you only open the pilot light valve. so the air only leaks out at a slow rate. (the rate it takes to keep the pilot light lit)


the torch method thats mentioned does 2 things. 1) it heats the thermocouple so that it opens the "big valve" 2) it acts as the pilot light to lite the gas coming from the "big valve"

as soon as the pilot light is lit and has warmed the thermocouple for a few seconds (10-15) you can let go of the red button. if your actively calling for heat (at that moment), then the big valve will be open (due to the warm thermocouple) and as soon as you let go of the red button the larger burner will kick on.

Hmmm....

I think I'm finally getting something here.

For the record, my button isn't red it's the same knob used to turn/adjust the gas burners. The first position allows it to be depressed for the pilot and it can not be 'turned up' any further while depressed.


So, unless that fact changes anything.... let me reword this into my ignorance and see if I'm understanding this.


Currently: If I push/hold my pilot button.... it will take "X" minutes for the air to dribble out through the pilot circuit. This specifically lets air/gas seep through at a VERY slow rate.

If instead, I push the pilot button in while holding a flame (butane lighter for fireplace work ok?? is that a 'torch' or do I need my MAP gas? )

Anyways...if I hold a flame to the thermocouple (and I'm not sure exactly where that is) then heating the thermocouple will allow the "secondary" valve to open and perhaps allow the gas (air) to purge much more quickly through the system.


Side question....

Presuming I am grasping the above... then THANKS!!

If however, my knob is creating a situation by being locked in the pilot location when depressed.... would that defeat the secondary volume logic?

If it would.... could I simply turn the gas on while heating this thermocouple and (hopefully) that would allow the main gas to come on, totally bypassing the logic of lighting the pilot light?

(does that even make sense?)

 

[johnk]

There goes a pair of eyebrows. If you don't know what you're doing don't mess with trying to purge lines that way. It'll only get you burned. I have 40 yrs w/ a utlity and I see the new guys getting singed all the time trying to spike valves open and faulty safety devices.. Be careful. If you don't know what you're doing don't do it..Just my opinion.

 

[MikeD74T]

I also use the Mgrove method every fall. My propane torch burns at the same temp as the main burner so perfectly duplicates the pilot. Have never had anything other than a normal ignition of the main burner.

johnk, Do you work in the field or the office? Does your company not train it's field techs sufficiently? Miked74T

 

[johnk]

I work in the field. I work with natural gas and do the service calls in residential and commercial properties for gas leaks etc. In my company 90% of the old work force left last year at contract time so many ions of experience were lost and threr really isn't the manpower to train all the new guys because the bosses themselves are in their 20's and early 30's w/ hardly any knowledge except from the book of what the heck is going on. I can retire at any time but want to get a little closer to that 62 age.. You know what happened to all the 401's so I'm kind of glad i didn't leave last contract ...