P/S B7100/7200

[amitysanimal]

I can't get the hydraulic block I need from Kubota. They ordered one but it was not even close. Anyone have any idea what the part number is for the hydraulic block with the holes already tapped in it.

I have 2 of the regular blocks, I could drill/tap those for the lines easy enough, but plugging between them might be a pain.

 

[amitysanimal]

To tap in to the hydraulic block you need a new front half for the block on your tractor. It interrupts the oil flow sending it through your hydraulic implement or whatever then back to the other side of the block. I think that part number for a B7100 is 75536-68110. This may or may not still be a good number. It is the new hydraulic block cover used for a front end loader, snow blower, front blade or whatever to supply hydraulics to them. I hope you system works, but you may need a flow divider to separate the hydraulic flow, part to the power steering and the remainder back through the hydraulic block to run your 3 pt. hitch or other hydraulics on your tractor.

This number is what I used, the part I got is WAY too small, it is half the size and only has 2 bolt holes. Any ideas??
I need this part, the tractor is 2 1/2 hours away from here. It is up to my parents place, I brought it up there so my Dad can help me with the conversion. And I wanted an excuse to go spend some time with him. I am going back up next Wednesday to work on it again.

 

[Elsie71]

See if this will help. It shows a different part number and shows 4 bolt holes. All my information is older, and I no longer have the information from when I bought mine. This is from a front blade for B6100 through B7200.

 

[amitysanimal]

Thank You Elsi71, that is EXACTLY the one I need.

I live near Bangor, Maine and had to call a dealer in PA to have them help me find what I needed, they are sending me this one. They said they would look into it and call me back, I figured they would never follow through with it. About 20 minutes later they called and said they found it. Darn thing is $73.00 for it though, kinda sucks but the PS will be worth it.

Now I just need to get another steering valve, the one I got (used) doesn't seem to work. I get oil to come out the return line, but nothing comes out the steering cyl ports when I turn the wheel. Hopefully the place I bought it from will let me swap it for another one.

Thanks again,
Cleve

 

[clarkvg]

I plan on putting tee's where the fittings come out of the block (under the Brake pedals) for the loader. I'm hesitating drilling hole in something I don't understand (block) and think it will be easier just to cobble into existing lines.

Does this create other issues?

I did get a block with many ports and a valve in it, I guess I would call it a hydraulic manifold, again I don't have a good feel for it.

I just wish it would warm a little so I could " get r done".

Clark

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

CLARKVG//// I HAD THE SAME IDEA. TAKE ONE LINE AND TEE OFF TO CONTROL VALVE AND THEN COME BACK TO RETURN LINE BEHIND SEAT AND TEE OFF THAT LINE. JUST REMEMBER THAT THE BLOCK BY THE BRAKE HAS TWO OPENINGS, AND THEY BOTH ARE PRESSURE LINES, SO JUST USE ONE OF THESE TO THE VALVE. I AM NOT SURE, BUT I LIKE THE IDEA. LET US KNOW HOW THIS WORKS.

 

[amitysanimal]

CLARKVG//// I HAD THE SAME IDEA. TAKE ONE LINE AND TEE OFF TO CONTROL VALVE AND THEN COME BACK TO RETURN LINE BEHIND SEAT AND TEE OFF THAT LINE. JUST REMEMBER THAT THE BLOCK BY THE BRAKE HAS TWO OPENINGS, AND THEY BOTH ARE PRESSURE LINES, SO JUST USE ONE OF THESE TO THE VALVE. I AM NOT SURE, BUT I LIKE THE IDEA. LET US KNOW HOW THIS WORKS.

Actually, the block with the 2 holes is a pressure and a return line. This is an open center system and if you restrict the flow, it will blow the seal in the back of the pump and dump hydraulic oil into the engine oil, very bad. The oil flows from the pump into the first hole, putting pressure to the steering valve and then back (return) into the second hole and on to the 3pt hitch. If you try and use the second hole for pressure too, it won't have any because it won't have any flow to it at all. The hydraulic block is blocked off inside between the 2 holes. I just ordered that block and it sure was hard to find the right part number, darn thing was $73.00.

 

[Elsie71]

Sounds like that would work, assuming the power steering valve is open flow and the fluid just runs through it when you are not turning. I don't think a 'T' into the line would, however. The oil would probably go to the path of least resistance from the 'T' and neither the power steering or the 3 pt. would work. If your idea works, the extra manifold from the B8200 that I used to get a flow divider was likely a big waste of money. The only problem I could see is that the hitch might not operate as well while you are turning, but I doubt that would be a problem. Let us know how you come out.

 

[amitysanimal]

Yes, the steering valve is open center, so I'm sure if I try to lift the 3 pt hitch while steering, one will not work well, but I can stop steering long enough while lifting the 3pt hitch. My other option is running off the loader pump, but I will be using the loader and steering quite often so I'll leave that as a last resort. I should know by Thanksgiving how it all works out, going up Wednesday to finish it up.

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

NOT STEERING HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE FLOW. YOUR P/S REQUIRES A FLOW OF BETTER THAN ONE GALLON PER MINUTE CONTINUOUSLY. EVERYONE NEEDS TO UNDERSTAND, THAT TURNING THE WHEEL OR STANDING BESIDE THE TRACTOR WHILE ITS RUNNING MAKES NO DIFFERENCE ON THE FLOW OF THE P/S HYDRAULICS.

 

[jas67]

There is a "power steering kit" for B5200/B6200/B7200 for sale on ebay right now. The listings says the kit is not complete, but does have the cylinder.

This might be of interest to someone on this thread.

I have no association with the seller.

 

[grossgary]

great info everyone. i've done lots of auto work before and have replaced steering racks, but i don't really understand exactly how this is all put together. i have a few things lying around i believe i could make something work.

it looks like the one set up has an additional hydraulic cylinder pushing the wheels or whatever you call it - hubs, tie rod - towards the front of the tractor.

how are the hoses all routed? i would think there's just two hoses - a supply and return line to the hydraulic cylinder, like in a car steering rack. but there appears to be more than that. what am i missing?

and what's this valve for i see mentioned?

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

ON A CAR FOR EXAMPLE, YOUR STEERING SECTOR IS ALSO YOUR CONTROL VALVE DIRECTING THE FLOW OF FLUID TO THE RACK IN THE WAY YOU ARE TURNING YOUR WHEEL. ON A TRACTOR WITHOUT A P/S SECTOR, YOU NEED A SEPERATE VALVE, THEREFORE YOU NEED A HOSE FROM THE PUMP TO THE VALVE, FROM THE VALVE TO THE CYLINDER, FROM THE CYLINDER BACK TO THE PUMP. A TOTAL OF FOUR.

 

[grossgary]

ah, thanks.
how/what does the valve do exactly? is it connected to anything but hoses?

you said 4 hoses but only named 3:
pump to valve, valve to cylinder, cylinder back to pump?

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

SORRY// FROM THE CYLINDER BACK TO VALVE AND THEN BACK TO PUMP. THE VALVE DIRECTS THE FLOW WHICH TELLS THE CYLINDER TO PUSH OR PULL WHEN TURNING THE STEERIN WHEEL.

 

[grossgary]

i'm not seeing how the valve can tell whether to "push or pull" the cylinder. other than that, seems fairly simple.

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

ON MY TRACTOR, I USED A JD DRAG LINK WITH THE CONTROL VALVE AS PART OF IT,SO WHEN THE STEERING IS TURNED, IT PUSHES OR PULLS THE VALVE, SENDING THE FLUID IN THE PROPER DIRECTION.

 

[grossgary]

ON MY TRACTOR, I USED A JD DRAG LINK WITH THE CONTROL VALVE AS PART OF IT,SO WHEN THE STEERING IS TURNED, IT PUSHES OR PULLS THE VALVE, SENDING THE FLUID IN THE PROPER DIRECTION.

oh, no kidding. that makes sense i think. so the wheels turning (compressing/tensioning) actuates the valve the proper direction? and in your case you still retained manual steering if for some reason the power steering failed? that's what i want to do. that should help me when i see your pictures again, you posted pic's right?

i have a few power steering components lying around so i'm tempted to give this a try at some point.

thanks!

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

Yes, the steering valve is open center, so I'm sure if I try to lift the 3 pt hitch while steering, one will not work well, but I can stop steering long enough while lifting the 3pt hitch. My other option is running off the loader pump, but I will be using the loader and steering quite often so I'll leave that as a last resort. I should know by Thanksgiving how it all works out, going up Wednesday to finish it up.

HI, I WONDER HOW YOUR P/S PROJECT IS GOING? I FEEL THAT I CAN ALWAYS LEARN FROM DIFFERENT IDEAS AND MAKE IMPROVEMENTS ON MY SETUP. IF YOU CAN POST SOME PICTURES, THAT WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS

 

[clarkvg]

I'm still designing and redesigning my p/s system and have a couple of questions. If you read my earlier post(s) I was going to use "tees" to provide fluid to the power steering but after reading about the "open system" tees won't work... the fluid will go to the path of least resistance.

The hydraulic block near the brake pedals has 2 supply ports, presently on my tractor they both are going to the joystick to operate the loader. Does anyone know if there is a back flow restrictor between the the 2 ports? Please keep reading...

I want to leave one port connected to the joy stick as it is now, and the other port to a "Prince" priority flow divider which has a relief valve , a 1.5 GPM port, and another port (which will go back to the joy stick). The 1.5 GPM port will go to the control valve and feed the p/s cylinder ( the flow divider cost $86.95 at Surpluscenter.com). Its designed to always have 1.5 GPM flow to the that port.

Will this work?

Logic tells me that because the loader is presently functioning well, it should work, right?

Thanks, Clark