P/S B7100/7200

/ P/S B7100/7200
  • Thread Starter
#21  
The same line returns to the pump that was there before. I only intercepted the pressure line from the pump, not the return line. I suppose it is hard to see from the photographs, but I guess I was not trying to show that since it was not changed. Hope this helps.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #22  
AFTER READING SOME OF THE DIFFERENT IDEAS, THEY ALL HAD A DRAW BACK. HOW ABOUT POWER STEERINGFOR $250 OR LESS. I TOOK A RACE CAR P/S PUMP AND MOUNTED IT WHERE THE BELT TENSIONER WAS WITH REMOTE RESEVOIR ,USING A SWEET RACE CAR CYLINDER, AND A JOHN DEERE 400 CONTROL VALVE AND DRAG LINK. ALL COURTSEY OF EBAY. NOW THE PUMP DOES PROTRUDE OUT THE SIDE A BIT, BUT IS BALANCED WITH THE AIR FILLTER ON THE OTHER SIDE. THE BENNEFITS ARE NO ROBBING OF THE TRACTORS HYDRAULICS. I HAVE AN ENLOADER AND A GRADER BLADE WITH AN EXTRA 100 LBS. ADDED TO IT,SO CAN'T AFFORD TO LOSE HYDRAULIC PRESURE. I READ WHERE SOMEONE USED A DANFOSS SETUP, WHICH IS GREAT FOR A FORKLIFT, BUT NOT HAVING A DRAGLINK IS ASKING FOR TROUBLE. JUST PICTURE ON A HILL AND A LEAK AND NO WAY TO STEER. THAT IS DANGEROUS. THEIR WAS NO DIESECTING THE TRACTOR AND EVERYTHING COULD BE PUT BACK ORGINAL,BUT WHO WOULD WANT TO.THE COST ARE AS FOLLOWS. PUMP$100 CYL. $60 VALVE $60 HOSES $30
 
/ P/S B7100/7200
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Any pictures? I would like to see the pump and the unit off the JD 400.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #24  
Some years ago, I added PS to my B8200, and posted some fotos. For those of you interested, here's the Kubota USA PS kit, installed. The hydraulic lines came off the block, over to the left side, with a check and limiter valve, and down to the servo cylinder attached to the steering pitman (?) arm. That controls the cylinde that replaced the link. works fine, no noticable loss of hydraulic power.
 

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  • steering low.jpg
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/ P/S B7100/7200 #27  
ELSIE 71, SEND ME YOUR EMAIL AND I WILL MAIL PICTURES. I CAN'T FIGURE HOW TO POST PICTURES 0N THIS SITE.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #29  
I would like to see them too.

I have a steering valve, shaft and steering cylinder from an old New Idea Uni combine that I am going to put on my B7100. I am not sure how to plumb it though. The hydraulic block I have has no holes in it. I could drill and tap it though I think. Just not sure where to run the return line to.

I really think it is going to work great, the whole setup from the combine is pretty compact, it even has tilt wheel. The only issue I may have is the length of the steering shaft, it may have to be shortened.

I will take pics when I start working on it, which I hope to start in a few days. I hate the thought of having my tractor apart though, I use it so much. I have been mostly concerned about where to run the return line if I tap into the hydraulic block for pressure.

My B7100 is a 1977 gear drive with a FEL that runs of its own pump coming off the front of the crankshaft.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

amitysanimal
 
/ P/S B7100/7200
  • Thread Starter
#30  
To tap in to the hydraulic block you need a new front half for the block on your tractor. It interrupts the oil flow sending it through your hydraulic implement or whatever then back to the other side of the block. I think that part number for a B7100 is 75536-68110. This may or may not still be a good number. It is the new hydraulic block cover used for a front end loader, snow blower, front blade or whatever to supply hydraulics to them. I hope you system works, but you may need a flow divider to separate the hydraulic flow, part to the power steering and the remainder back through the hydraulic block to run your 3 pt. hitch or other hydraulics on your tractor.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #31  
The only thing that runs off the main pump is the 3pt hitch. The FEL has its own pump and the BH has a PTO pump. I am thinking that when I do use the 3pt hitch, I'll just stop to raise it or just not steer while raising it.

Also, where would I run the return line too?

There is a fitting coming out horizontally from just under the seat that is plugged of. is this a pressure port or a return?

And I have the trans filler hole, I have seen a hose running into there on some other B7100. (Can send a pic if it helps)

Could either of those be used for the return?
 
/ P/S B7100/7200
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Basically there is no return line. The pressure line runs through one side of the block, through the power steering valve, then back through the other side of the block. The outlet under the seat, at least on my 7100HST, is an auxiliary outlet, one way, that is controlled by the directional valve under the front of the seat. Oil pressure is only used by the steering valve when you are turning, at least the way I understand it. I am trying to attach a PDF file with a parts breakdown for a Kubota LA352 loader. Page 17, I think, shows the hydraulic block that you will need.

I think my third picture on my original post shows the hydraulic block front cover plate that provides for access to the pressure side of the hydraulic oil supply.
 

Attachments

  • LA352.pdf
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/ P/S B7100/7200
  • Thread Starter
#33  
P.S. I have an auxiliary cylinder I use to raise my mid mower that runs off the second outlet under the seat. I turn the valve one way to raise and lower the mower, and then the other way to run the 3 pt. hitch. The return from that line runs into a 'T' fitting that runs the oil back into the hydraulic oil filler opening.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #34  
OK, sounds good. I'll go to the Kubota dealer tomorrow and see if I can get that block, or just drill/tap mine.

Thank You,
amitysanimal
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #35  
If I recall correctly, the outer block you intend to drill and tap is in fact a bypass. So you must figure out a way to also plug the horizontal connecting passage between the two existing ports for it to be effective. My guess is that this passage diameter is probably the tap drill size for the plug on the end of the block.

Sherweld
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #36  
I AM SORRY I HAVE NOT POSTED PICTURES. SOMEONE WANT TO TELL ME HOW. MY STEERING IS A BOLT ON WITH NO WELDING OR CUTTING THAT TAKES ABOUT TWO AND HALF HOURS. TWO BRACKETS NEED MADE, WITH A TOTAL OF TEN HOLES DRILLED. IF EBAY IS WATCHED CAREFULLY, THE COST CAN BE WAY BELOW $250. A VERY SIMPLE INSTALLATION WITH ITS OWN HYDRAULICS. CAN NOT UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE PERSIST IN TRYING TO ROB THE HYDRAULICS ON THEIR TRACTORS.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #37  
I don't want to mount a pump on my engine, I don't want to remove my side cover and have that pump sticking out. My main tractor hydraulics are rarely used, I have my BH on 95% of the time, no need to lift the 3pt hitch much, so not sure why it would hurt to use the hydraulics I have readily available.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #38  
WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO USE FOR A DRAG LINK? YES THE PUMP STICKS OUT, BUT YOU STILL HAVE YOUR SIDE COVER. PART OF THE SCREEN ON COVER IS REMOVED. YOUR EXHAUST STICKS OUT ON LEFT SIDE AND YOUR AIR CLEANER ON THE RIGHT SIDE UNLESS YOU HAVE BEEN ABLE TO STICK THEM INSIDE OF PANNELS.
 
/ P/S B7100/7200 #39  
/ P/S B7100/7200 #40  
THANKYOU FOR GIVING ME THE LINK, BUT I HAVE SPENT MORE TIME TRYING TO POST A PICTURE THAN IT TOOK ME TO INSTALL THE P/S. I AM GOING TO HAVE TOGET SOMEBODY TO HELP ME. LAST NIGHT I TRIED TO SEND ELSIE 71 A EMAIL OF THE TRACTOR. IF HE RECEIVED IT, MAYBE HE WLL POST IT FOR YOU. OTHERWISE, MAYBE THIS WEEKEND I CAN GET SOMEONE TO COME TO THE HOUSE AND SHOW ME WHAT I AM DOING WRONG. BY THE WAY, THE PUMP STICKS OUT PAST THE HOOD 2 INCHES,WHEREAS THE EXHAUST STICKS OUT ABOUT 5 INCHES. THANK YOU.
 
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