I thought the same thing until I saw the $$$ signs for those California Air units. I would wear Muffs inside before I would ever even consider upgrading. I just went out and checked the decibel level at 6' and it was at 90 dB. If I can tweak that down to 75dB or so I would be content. Getting to old to spend to much on tools.
Noise Insulation for shop compressor?
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I thought the same thing until I saw the $$$ signs for those California Air units. I would wear Muffs inside before I would ever even consider upgrading. I just went out and checked the decibel level at 6' and it was at 90 dB. If I can tweak that down to 75dB or so I would be content. Getting to old to spend to much on tools.
ruffdog
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Yes, 90dB is getting up there for sure. My 60gal upright has rubber feet and a intake silencer. If I needed to, I would plumb up a motorcycle or auto muffler to quiet things down. Even my central vacuum unit in the garage has the large sound deadening muffler.
orezok
Super Member
I did a little experiment on my outside intake silencer set up. I have a 60 gal Husky compressor which is noisy. I took a dB measurement 3 feet in front of the compressor and it was 88 dB. I measured the sound outside 3 feet in front of the intake silencer and it was 98dB. A 10 dB reduction inside the shop. That is a huge reduction for 3 feet of tube and a $30 silencer. I have no idea how high the sound was inside before the conversion.
Best thing is that the silencers and a little hose are cheap compared to hearing damage. Not sure why you have to get old before realizing this? Yes I do, it's because we are invincible when young and dumb. My ears, and eyes and joints have told me this.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
DE can you install a silencer on the intake? That would be an inexpensive and easy first step.
ericm979
Super Member
There are companies that make quiet large compressors. They have huge boxes for inlet silencers, like 2'x2'x1'. I don't know what is inside them but since the compressor is always running at the same speed the frequency of the sound will be the same, then the muffler can be designed for that frequency. That will work better than a generic muffler designed for a range of frequencies.
I don't have time to read all the responses so if someone has mentioned this before I apologize for stepping on their post(s) ...
The best way to reduce noise of an air compressor is to REDUCE its speed! In order to cut cost, air compressor manufacturers sell by their CFM ratings - faster speeds mean more CFM and therefore exponentially more noise. Box store compressors are notorious for fast speeds.
Install a smaller sheave on the motor end of your compressor and you'll be amazed in the difference in sound! Quality compressors run slow and quiet.
The best way to reduce noise of an air compressor is to REDUCE its speed! In order to cut cost, air compressor manufacturers sell by their CFM ratings - faster speeds mean more CFM and therefore exponentially more noise. Box store compressors are notorious for fast speeds.
Install a smaller sheave on the motor end of your compressor and you'll be amazed in the difference in sound! Quality compressors run slow and quiet.
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dragoneggs
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I'm going to have to investigate that.
MossRoad
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I have a cheap Harbor Freight compressor, direct drive, that is insanely LOUD!. One of it's key selling points was how quiet it was. It is the loudest small compressor I've ever heard. It came with an intake silencer, which does a very small bit of good, but it's still too loud to be near when it's running.
I'm tempted to get a better silencer. Here's a bunch from Grainger I'm looking at. We have a local store, so I could pick it up there.
Intake Filters and Silencers - Air Compressor Accessories - Grainger Industrial Supply
While I was looking at Home Depot, I also saw this on their website. Kinda pricey, though...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Califor...of-Cabinet-for-Air-Compressor-SPC03/206273760
Industrial Toys
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I have my compressor in another building and I never looked back. Nice having air, and no noise at all.
PILOON
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So if anyone can point to a source for these mufflers (ones that actually work!), I'd appreciate it, as I'm sure would others.
Here is a thought.
Cheap and easy to find is the 'muffler' that is used on central vacuum systems.
Basically a poly tubing length lined with sound absorbing foam and sized to fit central vac plumbing.
Trick would be to reduce the 1 1/2 inch down the typical compressor intake plumbing but I believe pipe thread adaptors are available.
One sound deadening trick I tried on my cheap stainless kitchen sink was to smear polyurethane caulking using a putty knife to spread it.
The result was amazing, gone is the tinny sound!
I strongly suspect similar treatment on a compressor tank would help a whole lot.
That or as I suggested earlier, self adhesive roofing membrane.
A tank is like one big bell that amplifies all the mechanical noises produced by the actual compressor head.
Kind of like wind chimes.
Here is a thought.
Cheap and easy to find is the 'muffler' that is used on central vacuum systems.
Basically a poly tubing length lined with sound absorbing foam and sized to fit central vac plumbing.
Trick would be to reduce the 1 1/2 inch down the typical compressor intake plumbing but I believe pipe thread adaptors are available.
One sound deadening trick I tried on my cheap stainless kitchen sink was to smear polyurethane caulking using a putty knife to spread it.
The result was amazing, gone is the tinny sound!
I strongly suspect similar treatment on a compressor tank would help a whole lot.
That or as I suggested earlier, self adhesive roofing membrane.
A tank is like one big bell that amplifies all the mechanical noises produced by the actual compressor head.
Kind of like wind chimes.
My 6hp,60gal Cambell Hausfeld has a funky plastic box over the intake held on by 2 bolts. I opened the box an there was a coarse piece of foam approximately 3/4" x 3" that is supposed filter the intake air. I looked behind this air box and the intake is threaded (1/2" female pipe thread). I ordered silencers from Amazon.
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dragoneggs
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I would need to consider recovery time... I run a hungry sand blast cabinet so I need to be sure I don't slow it down such that it can't keep up. I also don't want it running continuously or almost. Not sure how one would go about calculating that.
Where are the Math Wizards when you need them? I am sure there is a formula for that.
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dragoneggs
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I'm (was I should say) a mechanical engineer but I am too lazy to think about that. Hoping someone can do my homework while I explore muffler configs.
MossRoad
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I wonder if it is better for a compressor to run continuously and blow off the unused load VS cycling off and on all the time? Kinda like when you size a well pump for a sprinkler system. We had some huge screw-type compressors at my old employer that ran 24/7/365. And we had large piston compressors that had huge tanks that would cycle off and on as the pressure rose and fell. Don't know which is better.
I'm (was I should say) a mechanical engineer but I am too lazy to think about that. Hoping someone can do my homework while I explore muffler configs.
Pulley Calculator. RPM, Belt Length, Speed, Animated Diagrams. This was a decent formula. If I decrease my motor pulley size from 3" to 2.5", I will reduce my compressor rpm from 1035 rpm to 862.5 rpm. This is a 173 rpm difference in the speed of the compressor. How it affects sound and recovery time would be anyone's guess. I'd just have to try it to find out. If the silencers fail to deliver then this may help.
radios1
Elite Member
the problem is most compressors are NOT designed to run continuously, they'll get WAY too hot, and burn out!. the cycling let's them cool down a bit!..
aczlan
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Not sure about compressor longevity, but for a fixed displacement compressor such as a piston compressor, it is most efficient when it is turned on and off.
If you have a check valve and a bleed down valve (so that the compressor starts unloaded), your motor should not have much startup load.
Aaron Z
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