Compressor for a shop

[repete]

To those of you that might be considering a solenoid valve tied to the lights to shut off the compressed air lines when not being used: Consider a "motorized ball valve" instead. The MBV will open or close, then needs no further electricity to maintain either position. A NC solenoid valve needs to be energized constantly to remain open. In the case of turning on the air with the lights, you need a NC valve. Energizing the lights energizes the valve, of course.
MBVs are available reasonably from EBay for sure, probably Amazon.

I will be changing my valve type. My guess is a better air flow path as well. Excellent advice as on occasions the solenoid can develop a 60 cycle buzz.
One question though, how would the ball valve power to close?

 

[lpakiz]

Some MBVs have "power to open" and a capacitor that charges while energized that closes the valve upon de-energization. (2-wire)
Others (3-wire) have a continuous hot to the valve and an additional "activate" wire. Mine uses the first system--capacitor close.
In addition, I have an underground line to the house (1/2" Nylon air brake tubing) that connects to the remote shop system. The MBV in the shop is wired thru a wifi switch, so I can turn the air on to the basement without going out to the shop. The wifi switch has a manual button on it also, so it can be turned on and off locally, without my phone and/or wifi.
I have another wifi switch to control the block heater on my tractor, so I can heat the engine without going out to the shop to plug it in.

EDIT: Cripes! The price sure went up lately. Seems I paid around $40-50

1" Stainless Steel Motorized Electric Ball Valve 110V 120V- 220 Volt AC, 2 Wire | eBay

110 to 240 Volt AC Ball Valve. The actuator is IP67 rated, the NEMA 4 equivalent, making this valve acceptable for outdoor use. For convenience, there is a position indicator on the top of the valve.

www.ebay.com

 

[repete]

Some MBVs have "power to open" and a capacitor that charges while energized that closes the valve upon de-energization. (2-wire)
Others (3-wire) have a continuous hot to the valve and an additional "activate" wire. Mine uses the first system--capacitor close.
In addition, I have an underground line to the house (1/2" Nylon air brake tubing) that connects to the remote shop system. The MBV in the shop is wired thru a wifi switch, so I can turn the air on to the basement without going out to the shop. The wifi switch has a manual button on it also, so it can be turned on and off locally, without my phone and/or wifi.
I have another wifi switch to control the block heater on my tractor, so I can heat the engine without going out to the shop to plug it in.

EDIT: Cripes! The price sure went up lately. Seems I paid around $40-50

1" Stainless Steel Motorized Electric Ball Valve 110V 120V- 220 Volt AC, 2 Wire | eBay

110 to 240 Volt AC Ball Valve. The actuator is IP67 rated, the NEMA 4 equivalent, making this valve acceptable for outdoor use. For convenience, there is a position indicator on the top of the valve.

www.ebay.com

How long does it have to be energized to charge the capacitor sufficiently to close the valve? If I went out to the shop and turned the light on for say 60 seconds, would the capacitor charge sufficiently to close the valve?

Thanks for posting this Ipakiz!

Gregg

 

[lpakiz]

It charges almost instantly. I can activate and deactivate mine as fast as I can push the button.

 

[cbg8670]

They do make motorized ball valves that Power open and spring return to close

 

[ultrarunner]

I've used the same speed aire timed drain since 1995.

Upright compressor mounted on pads with flexline to dryer and flexline out to 300' all copper L pipe with regulator drips and moisture trap which has no moisture.

Rollair is brand of last 2 portables bought... spoke to owner... he took my call and I said OK and bought plus 3 more later for friends.