EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
That beam turned out really nice. But how can you live with just one?
New House Build
- Thread starter ovrszd
- Start date
- Views: 35983
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Yeah, that's it!!! I've heard a couple horror stories about building too tight. Then having to go back in and add the ERV. It's just too humid here to not have it in those situations.
I'm hoping mine breathes enough to not worry about it. We'll know after this Winter.
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Yep, when they mentioned doing that I remembered seeing yours.
I think our house is noisy inside because of being on the bare concrete. As we moved in and Terry added throw rugs, etc., it quieted down quite a bit. I just think we might have been able to minimize it with interior wall insulation. No big deal.
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
I really like those concrete floors.
Terry would have an easier time keeping them clean here as apparently there is no dirt in BC.
Thanks BB!!!
I showed her some pics of your shop when you first started your thread, commenting on how clean your shop is. That was a mistake... She immediately said "if he can keep his shop that clean so can you". Thanks...?
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
So, after the floors were stained/sealed the Builders finished all the trim, mop board, etc. We used pre-finished white trim around windows, doors, mop board. It turned out very good. We used solid interior doors. All that will show up when I post pics of us finished.
Once they had the trim done they finished our showers. We had our drains set in the concrete so we could have a truly walk-in shower. One is 3/6, one is 4x7. Both have Onyx on the walls. The doorways are trimmed out with Onyx as well. We also ordered Onyx counter top with built in sinks for both bathrooms. I believe the Onyx was just under $5K.
Then it had to be fitted and installed by our Builders. The Onyx comes oversized to allow for any variations in wall shape and/or measuring errors. So each panel had to be trimmed to fit. Then it's glued to the sheetrock using their adhesive. Then the soap caddy is cut in and installed. Trimmed and caulked with 100% silicone the color of the Onyx.
We really, really like the showers. When people visit to look at the house it's common to be asked how we keep water off the floor outside the showers? It just doesn't happen. And if it did, just mop it up with your towel when done. But it just doesn't happen. I think because of the size and how the shower heads are placed makes it very hard to splash water outside the stalls.
For some reason I can't post that one picture the right way, sorry. I'll hafta get a pic of the 2nd bathroom shower. Sorry these aren't better.
Once they had the trim done they finished our showers. We had our drains set in the concrete so we could have a truly walk-in shower. One is 3/6, one is 4x7. Both have Onyx on the walls. The doorways are trimmed out with Onyx as well. We also ordered Onyx counter top with built in sinks for both bathrooms. I believe the Onyx was just under $5K.
Then it had to be fitted and installed by our Builders. The Onyx comes oversized to allow for any variations in wall shape and/or measuring errors. So each panel had to be trimmed to fit. Then it's glued to the sheetrock using their adhesive. Then the soap caddy is cut in and installed. Trimmed and caulked with 100% silicone the color of the Onyx.
We really, really like the showers. When people visit to look at the house it's common to be asked how we keep water off the floor outside the showers? It just doesn't happen. And if it did, just mop it up with your towel when done. But it just doesn't happen. I think because of the size and how the shower heads are placed makes it very hard to splash water outside the stalls.
For some reason I can't post that one picture the right way, sorry. I'll hafta get a pic of the 2nd bathroom shower. Sorry these aren't better.
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Hard to get good pics of a shower stall with a phone.... Sorry.....
Here's one trying to show the ease of entrance to the shower in the main bathroom. I might have posted this one earlier concerning the floors....
Also attaching a couple showing the Onyx counter top/sink in the main bathroom.
Here's one trying to show the ease of entrance to the shower in the main bathroom. I might have posted this one earlier concerning the floors....
Also attaching a couple showing the Onyx counter top/sink in the main bathroom.
BigBlue1
Elite Member
I used a shower kit from Onyx for a neo-angle shower install in one of our bathrooms. They have nice products and a good kit. I'd definitely recommend them. Our turned out spectacular and is so much more classy and custom looking then anything offered from one of the big box stores.
Do you have radiant heating in your concrete floors? Or are you located so far south that cold floors are not an issue in the winter?
Just a reminder that I'd love that info on the beam when you get a chance! Thanks!
Rob
Do you have radiant heating in your concrete floors? Or are you located so far south that cold floors are not an issue in the winter?
Just a reminder that I'd love that info on the beam when you get a chance! Thanks!
Rob
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Here ya go Rob.
Wholesale Millwork Products - Fypon, Spectis | BuyManufactur
They are Fypon beams.
Here's a pic of our invoice. I was off a few bucks on the price.
Wholesale Millwork Products - Fypon, Spectis | BuyManufactur
They are Fypon beams.
Here's a pic of our invoice. I was off a few bucks on the price.
BigBlue1
Elite Member
Awesome! Thanks for the info!
Since I'm bothering you, any info you have on that propane fired tankless radiant floor heater would be appreciated too. I have a pole barn with floor prepped for radiant. I just have to insulate (just!! Ha!) and get a boiler/heater. Propane is a good option for me.
Thanks again!
Rob
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Since Rob asked, we'll talk about floor heat now.
I was in my new shop thru last Winter and use Hydronic Radiant Floor heat in it as well as in the house. I use Rinnai Propane fired Tankless 199,000 btu Heaters. They are condensing heaters with efficiency rating somewhere around 96%. The shop heater is vented using 3" PVC, intake and exhaust. The house heater uses 2" PVC. I run the shop heater on 120F. House heater on 110F. Still experimenting with which might be best. I use a simple on/off thermostat in the house. I use a better multi function thermostat in the shop that measures air temp and concrete floor temp. Experimenting with that too.
The shop is 39x48x14, 1872 sqft, uses 9 loops of 250ft each (2,250ft), 1/2" PEX, stapled to 2" pinkboard insulation, chaired rebar above that, 6" concrete slab. All on one zone.
The house slab is 54x32x09 plus 18x40x09, 2448 sqft, uses 13 loops of 250ft each (3,250ft), 1/2" PEX, stapled to 2" pinkboard insulation, chaired rebar above that, 5" concrete slab. All on one zone.
Both systems will over run if conditions are right (wrong). Over run meaning the air temp in the building may be higher than the thermostat setting.
For example, right now thermostat set on 69 in my shop. Mid Afternoon. Sunny. 23F degrees this morning. 4 p.m. outside temp is 43F degrees. Temp in the shop now is 72. I'm experimenting with the thermostat that also uses slab temp to try to control the system from overheating the slab. I don't have as much problem if it's cloudy. Nor do I have as much problem if temps are colder.
The house right now is set on 71F degrees, current temp in the house is 72F. It doesn't seem to overrun as much as the shop.
Neither building ever drop below the thermostat setting. Have experienced -10F using the shop system with no problems keeping up.
My systems are very simple. They are considered "open" systems. This means the building water supply is constantly open to the heat system using a backflow preventer and a 15psi regulator. After the supply regulator there is a T, one side is the water exiting the floor loops, other side goes to a "burp" tank. This gets rid of any air that might show up in the system and softens the pressure so there's no jar when it kicks on/off. Out of the tank to the inlet of the heater. Output of the heater goes to the pump. Output of the pump goes to the manifold pushing hot water into the floor loops.
This system functions as follows. Thermostat calls for heat. Pump starts moving water. Heater senses this movement and fires up. Pump moves water at about 3gpm. Heater regulates burner to maintain setting temp. 120F in shop. 110F in house. When thermostat is satisfied it turns off pump, which stops water movement and heater shuts down.
Both of my systems have pretty long run times. With temps 20F to 40F they may only run once a day.
I think this might be contributing to my overruns. So I swapped in the dual thermostat. So I set the air temp at 69F with 1F variation. I set the slab temp at 75F maximum, 69F minimum. The probe is about 3ft from the pipes going into the slab. Concept being if the slab temp reaches 75F before the air temp is satisfied the heat will kick off. Slab temp drops a degree and the heat kicks back on. Running shorter but more often cycles and not over heating the slab so much.
So far I haven't saw the results I wished for but I haven't sampled this in real cold weather yet. I'll report my findings then.
I was in my new shop thru last Winter and use Hydronic Radiant Floor heat in it as well as in the house. I use Rinnai Propane fired Tankless 199,000 btu Heaters. They are condensing heaters with efficiency rating somewhere around 96%. The shop heater is vented using 3" PVC, intake and exhaust. The house heater uses 2" PVC. I run the shop heater on 120F. House heater on 110F. Still experimenting with which might be best. I use a simple on/off thermostat in the house. I use a better multi function thermostat in the shop that measures air temp and concrete floor temp. Experimenting with that too.
The shop is 39x48x14, 1872 sqft, uses 9 loops of 250ft each (2,250ft), 1/2" PEX, stapled to 2" pinkboard insulation, chaired rebar above that, 6" concrete slab. All on one zone.
The house slab is 54x32x09 plus 18x40x09, 2448 sqft, uses 13 loops of 250ft each (3,250ft), 1/2" PEX, stapled to 2" pinkboard insulation, chaired rebar above that, 5" concrete slab. All on one zone.
Both systems will over run if conditions are right (wrong). Over run meaning the air temp in the building may be higher than the thermostat setting.
For example, right now thermostat set on 69 in my shop. Mid Afternoon. Sunny. 23F degrees this morning. 4 p.m. outside temp is 43F degrees. Temp in the shop now is 72. I'm experimenting with the thermostat that also uses slab temp to try to control the system from overheating the slab. I don't have as much problem if it's cloudy. Nor do I have as much problem if temps are colder.
The house right now is set on 71F degrees, current temp in the house is 72F. It doesn't seem to overrun as much as the shop.
Neither building ever drop below the thermostat setting. Have experienced -10F using the shop system with no problems keeping up.
My systems are very simple. They are considered "open" systems. This means the building water supply is constantly open to the heat system using a backflow preventer and a 15psi regulator. After the supply regulator there is a T, one side is the water exiting the floor loops, other side goes to a "burp" tank. This gets rid of any air that might show up in the system and softens the pressure so there's no jar when it kicks on/off. Out of the tank to the inlet of the heater. Output of the heater goes to the pump. Output of the pump goes to the manifold pushing hot water into the floor loops.
This system functions as follows. Thermostat calls for heat. Pump starts moving water. Heater senses this movement and fires up. Pump moves water at about 3gpm. Heater regulates burner to maintain setting temp. 120F in shop. 110F in house. When thermostat is satisfied it turns off pump, which stops water movement and heater shuts down.
Both of my systems have pretty long run times. With temps 20F to 40F they may only run once a day.
I think this might be contributing to my overruns. So I swapped in the dual thermostat. So I set the air temp at 69F with 1F variation. I set the slab temp at 75F maximum, 69F minimum. The probe is about 3ft from the pipes going into the slab. Concept being if the slab temp reaches 75F before the air temp is satisfied the heat will kick off. Slab temp drops a degree and the heat kicks back on. Running shorter but more often cycles and not over heating the slab so much.
So far I haven't saw the results I wished for but I haven't sampled this in real cold weather yet. I'll report my findings then.
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Here's my house system. It's located in the Mechanical room with the HVAC, Domestic Water Heater (Tankless) and the Water Softener system. Excuse the crude pics but best I can do. The room is 5x5.
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,727
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
I'm open to any comments/discussion in regards to the floor heat. This is a new adventure for me.
There are some laws of nature that apply to this type heat.
1. The closer you are to the heat source, the warmer the temp.
2. Quick temp changes do not happen.
3. Because of #2 be careful about activating the system to quickly in the Fall.
4. It's radiant heat, every item in the building that can absorb heat will be the same temp as the thermostat setting.
5. It's radiant heat, there's nothing in the building that's warmer than the thermostat setting.
6. There's no place to huddle for a quick warmup when you come in cold.
I wouldn't change anything in my shop. It's one big open building with a bathroom in the corner which houses the heat system. My shop is very well built and insulated. Only place I can go to feel a slight drop in the temp is the 12x12 overhead doors. Stand up against one of them and you'll notice a slight difference. Otherwise it's basically the same temp everywhere until you go in the bathroom. You'll see a couple degree rise in there.
My house includes an 18x30 garage that's heated. I should have zoned the garage. It's at the end of the house and the heat system is in the middle so it doesn't overheat in the garage. But it's warmer in there than necessary.
My Master Bedroom and Master Bathroom is at the opposite end of the house. They are the coolest rooms in the house. The other day we got down to 4F. The Master Bath was 2 degrees below the thermostat setting. I should have zoned both bathrooms since they are side by side. I could have set them at a warmer temp without overheating the rest of the house and/or the Master Bedroom.
Remembering we are on bare concrete except where there are throw rugs. If I walk the house in socked feet when the system is running toward the end of a cycle I can feel temp differences in the floor. I don't think they would be noticed if we had carpet. I don't think there's anything wrong. The PEX runs are about a foot apart or a bit less. They simply heat the slab differently. Friend of mine has one of those high tech temp guns that shows a picture of the floor when he's pointing at it. You can clearly see where my PEX are.
I really like the feel of this heat. It's extremely comfortable to be in. No noise. No air moving. No "coldness" at the floor.
There are some laws of nature that apply to this type heat.
1. The closer you are to the heat source, the warmer the temp.
2. Quick temp changes do not happen.
3. Because of #2 be careful about activating the system to quickly in the Fall.
4. It's radiant heat, every item in the building that can absorb heat will be the same temp as the thermostat setting.
5. It's radiant heat, there's nothing in the building that's warmer than the thermostat setting.
6. There's no place to huddle for a quick warmup when you come in cold.
I wouldn't change anything in my shop. It's one big open building with a bathroom in the corner which houses the heat system. My shop is very well built and insulated. Only place I can go to feel a slight drop in the temp is the 12x12 overhead doors. Stand up against one of them and you'll notice a slight difference. Otherwise it's basically the same temp everywhere until you go in the bathroom. You'll see a couple degree rise in there.
My house includes an 18x30 garage that's heated. I should have zoned the garage. It's at the end of the house and the heat system is in the middle so it doesn't overheat in the garage. But it's warmer in there than necessary.
My Master Bedroom and Master Bathroom is at the opposite end of the house. They are the coolest rooms in the house. The other day we got down to 4F. The Master Bath was 2 degrees below the thermostat setting. I should have zoned both bathrooms since they are side by side. I could have set them at a warmer temp without overheating the rest of the house and/or the Master Bedroom.
Remembering we are on bare concrete except where there are throw rugs. If I walk the house in socked feet when the system is running toward the end of a cycle I can feel temp differences in the floor. I don't think they would be noticed if we had carpet. I don't think there's anything wrong. The PEX runs are about a foot apart or a bit less. They simply heat the slab differently. Friend of mine has one of those high tech temp guns that shows a picture of the floor when he's pointing at it. You can clearly see where my PEX are.
I really like the feel of this heat. It's extremely comfortable to be in. No noise. No air moving. No "coldness" at the floor.
BigBlue1
Elite Member
These things went way up in price since you bought. They are now $239 each, so $478 vs your $271.
BigBlue1
Elite Member
Thanks for all the details on the heating systems. Your systems look a lot like the one I have in my house heating the basement slab. I didn't install it (purchased house) so I don't have the background in it. Mine is electric fired though. But it is nice to see that a similar system may work OK for me for the shop. I have a bit of different setup though, with about 50x55 slab and, being in MN, I'm sure I have colder conditions to contend with.
Any idea how much your shop system takes for propane in a month or season, and what is your average temp in the winter where you are?
Thanks,
Rob
Any idea how much your shop system takes for propane in a month or season, and what is your average temp in the winter where you are?
Thanks,
Rob
Here are some similar links:
