955Lincoln
Gold Member
It's easier to identify which house it came from when you keep the walls and roof together.
New Home Begins
- Thread starter tkappeler
- Start date
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It's easier to identify which house it came from when you keep the walls and roof together.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
Day two of drywall. All ceilings are done as well as walls in all rooms except the great room. They expect to wrap up hanging the rock inside on Monday. I also expect them to finish the 5/8" on the garage wall common to the house.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
Day two of drywall. All ceilings are done as well as walls in all rooms except the great room. They expect to wrap up hanging the rock inside on Monday. I also expect them to finish the 5/8" on the garage wall common to the house.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
Depmandog
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Never have done concrete countertops, but it looks like there is a fair amount of knowhow and talent needed. Not trying to talk you out of it, but I would suggest you practice on an outside unit. Perhaps you could incorporate this into your landscape plans??
Love the progress, looking great!!
Love the progress, looking great!!
jinman
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Tom, congratulations on your great progress and your selection as TBN Member of the Month for June.:thumbsup: I guess I should also say congratulations on your recent marriage (6 months ago). How many newlyweds can celebrate by building their own home? Good luck to you.
bdeboer
Platinum Member
I have had a couple of concrete countertops on my future project list for awhile, Lol.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
bdeboer
Platinum Member
I have had a couple of concrete countertops on my future project list for awhile, Lol.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
Sinecure
Bronze Member
Tom -
I have done a couple of concrete countertops for some rental properties I own. It is pretty easy to do once you grasp the general concept. I highly recommend the dvd instruction or book by Cheng.
If these will be your first attempt, I would also recommend you buy a premixed stain additive that you simply add to your cement mix. You will overpay for the premixed additive, but until you get some experience under your belt - it is the easiest way to ensure a uniform color throughout the concrete mix and will look more natural than a concrete stain applied to a finished concrete.
As with anything, the prep work is really the key. It can be done, but I also do not recommend pouring the concrete on to the existing cabinet bases (ie - poured in place). I would go the route of making the template/forms, pouring and then installing onto the cabinets. The template is the critical step. I used thin pieces of wood strip and a glue gun to ensure my templates where the right size and matched up to the wall imperfections/etc. This also allows you to build your forms to the exact tolerences of your cabinet and wall setup based off your template.
During the pour it is critical to vibrate the forms. You will still have small air pockets (pinhole sized) in the top of the concrete. You correct this by applying a slurry to the top of the counters and then wet grinding/sanding until you get the polish level you are aiming for. I would also recommend buying the premixed slurry on your first couple of attempts. The biggest reason is that you can buy it in the exact same color as your stain, so you know it will be uniform.
The other critical advice I would offer is that you just need to remember that any imperfections in your form (ie, undermount sink edge/cutout; dust, form seam caulking job; etc) will be transfered to your finished coutertop. Take your time on the form build and the rest is simply vibrate and then slurry and polish once the concrete cures.
Give it a go - nothing too hard about it. The best case is that if you mess up, you are really only out some time and money for concrete mix. You will also need a couple of cases of beer for your friends that are needed to help carry the completed counters into the house. The jokers are heavy.
I have done a couple of concrete countertops for some rental properties I own. It is pretty easy to do once you grasp the general concept. I highly recommend the dvd instruction or book by Cheng.
If these will be your first attempt, I would also recommend you buy a premixed stain additive that you simply add to your cement mix. You will overpay for the premixed additive, but until you get some experience under your belt - it is the easiest way to ensure a uniform color throughout the concrete mix and will look more natural than a concrete stain applied to a finished concrete.
As with anything, the prep work is really the key. It can be done, but I also do not recommend pouring the concrete on to the existing cabinet bases (ie - poured in place). I would go the route of making the template/forms, pouring and then installing onto the cabinets. The template is the critical step. I used thin pieces of wood strip and a glue gun to ensure my templates where the right size and matched up to the wall imperfections/etc. This also allows you to build your forms to the exact tolerences of your cabinet and wall setup based off your template.
During the pour it is critical to vibrate the forms. You will still have small air pockets (pinhole sized) in the top of the concrete. You correct this by applying a slurry to the top of the counters and then wet grinding/sanding until you get the polish level you are aiming for. I would also recommend buying the premixed slurry on your first couple of attempts. The biggest reason is that you can buy it in the exact same color as your stain, so you know it will be uniform.
The other critical advice I would offer is that you just need to remember that any imperfections in your form (ie, undermount sink edge/cutout; dust, form seam caulking job; etc) will be transfered to your finished coutertop. Take your time on the form build and the rest is simply vibrate and then slurry and polish once the concrete cures.
Give it a go - nothing too hard about it. The best case is that if you mess up, you are really only out some time and money for concrete mix. You will also need a couple of cases of beer for your friends that are needed to help carry the completed counters into the house. The jokers are heavy.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
The garage floor and porch were poured yesterday. The sheetrock is all up and first coat of mud is done. Second coat tomorrow and he hopes to touch up/sand Friday. Upcoming plans are:
siding when the weather is good. Looks like rain Friday and into Saturday, so I can work on the steps into the laundry room then. We also hope to paint the kitchen this weekend so we can begin to put the cabinets up ASAP. We will using some of our leftover 1x6 tongue and groove under the cabinets as spacers to raise the cabinets up so the hardwood can just slip under the toekick edge by 1/2" or so. We can then shim as needed to the T&G.
siding when the weather is good. Looks like rain Friday and into Saturday, so I can work on the steps into the laundry room then. We also hope to paint the kitchen this weekend so we can begin to put the cabinets up ASAP. We will using some of our leftover 1x6 tongue and groove under the cabinets as spacers to raise the cabinets up so the hardwood can just slip under the toekick edge by 1/2" or so. We can then shim as needed to the T&G.
Gator6x4
Super Star Member
If I may be so bold as to suggest renting an Airless Paint Sprayer for the painting this weekend. Putting the primer coat and then the base coat on new walls is a time consuming job with rollers or a brush. One can do in hours with a airless sprayer what can take days using a roller. New construction areas are nice for airless spraying, no molding, door frames, floors etc to worry about getting paint on.
I have a airless sprayer which I purchased at the Home or Lowes several years ago on sale. When I have a paint project planned I stop at U-Haul, purchase a couple of movers boxes and cut them into barrier strips. I hold the strip in my left hand and press it up against the area I don't want painted. No fuss, mess or clean up. The cardboard catches the over spray and only leaves a small thin area to be touched up with a brush. A metal cheater bar is available for this. Even professional painters use them.
I have a airless sprayer which I purchased at the Home or Lowes several years ago on sale. When I have a paint project planned I stop at U-Haul, purchase a couple of movers boxes and cut them into barrier strips. I hold the strip in my left hand and press it up against the area I don't want painted. No fuss, mess or clean up. The cardboard catches the over spray and only leaves a small thin area to be touched up with a brush. A metal cheater bar is available for this. Even professional painters use them.
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OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
Next week, after it dries out a little, I will be putting in the underground electric. So, what's the best way for putting (3) 4-0 aluminum conductors into a 2 1/2" conduit, 110' long. Pull the three through the assembled conduit or lay the wire out and push the conduit down the line a section at a time, gluing as I go?
dstig1
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Might go easier if you got it as a cable assembly, no matter how you do it. And if this is for a subpanel/outbuilding, I think you also need the ground. Our local Menard's and Home Depot carry a 4/0 Alum x 3 plus a 2(?)ga ground (also alum) as a cable assy, priced per foot. You may want to find something similar. Use cable pulling lube for one... You could use the tractor to pull the wire too... and let us know how it went, as I will need to do the same things in a couple months!
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
Might go easier if you got it as a cable assembly, no matter how you do it. And if this is for a subpanel/outbuilding, I think you also need the ground. Our local Menard's and Home Depot carry a 4/0 Alum x 3 plus a 2(?)ga ground (also alum) as a cable assy, priced per foot. You may want to find something similar. Use cable pulling lube for one... You could use the tractor to pull the wire too... and let us know how it went, as I will need to do the same things in a couple months!
This is the main line running into the home, so I do not need the extra ground along with neutral. If I pull it through with lube, I will certainly use the tractor to pull it. I am going to one of the bigger electrical supply outfits to see what they have. I can't use the normal service wire the local big box carries as local utility does not allow the shielded to be installed inside conduit and also does not allow direct burial (no conduit).
I will let you know what I decide and how it goes.
955Lincoln
Gold Member
Yeah, you don't want to use a cable assembly in conduit. Normally, wiring before the meter is owned by the utility and not subject to NEC code but I don't know how it works in this case where you are supplying it. If you have to follow NEC code, they don't allow pulling the wire while piecing the conduit together. I think it has to do with the (not completely dried) glue damaging the insulation on the conductors and possibly they want to make sure that wires can be pulled (in a difficult run) in the future if need be.
IMO, piecing it together doesn't make it any easier because in the end you are still pulling just as hard as you would in a completed conduit unless you are feeding the conduit over your already layed wires. I would REALLY WORRY about the glue in this case. However, the added end sweep and pulling in a vertical direction is a bit of a pain if that is what you are doing. 110' through 2 1/2 should be a breeze if it's a fairly straight run. Use plenty of lube and ***a good strong pusher***. The pusher is very important for an easy pull.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
The local utility (PSE&G) would NORMALLY own all before the weather head. Unfortunately, not in our case. Since the street is overhead service, ALL aspects of underground are my responsibility. If they did underground at the street, they would do underground to the house. Anything different from what is provided at the street is customer responsibility.
When they come out to inspect, they will not care if the wire is already in the conduit or not. They are inspecting for trench depth, schedule 40 in ground, schedule 80 where it emerges and 10' up the pole.
As for distance, it 96' from the pole to a 90 degree bend, then another 12' to the house. Obviosly, another 90 degree at each end.
955Lincoln
Gold Member
I have to leave for work but real quick, does it have to be a 90 in your run? Can you change to like a 45 or something? If stuck with 90 make sure it has a large radius.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
I was thinking about that as I was writing the post. I will see about two 45s with a straight run in between. Of course, if I had one of those heaters for conduit, I'd just bend it to what I needed.
955Lincoln
Gold Member
I was thinking about that as I was writing the post. I will see about two 45s with a straight run in between. Of course, if I had one of those heaters for conduit, I'd just bend it to what I needed.
It sounds like you need to go around a corner? I'm not sure if two 45's would be better than a large radius sweep 90. Maybe someone else here has experience pulling large conductors through a buried 90. If it's a problem I suppose you could pull the straight part normally and then piece the rest of it together being careful with the glue. Actually, I think glue is way overrated in electrical conduit if you don't overdig your trench depth (settling) and it's deep enough (frost). It just holds everything together until you backfill. Even if every joint is perfectly sealed it will still eventually fill with water from condensation.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
We have been able to get a lot done over the past few days.
We have been able to get the front door in. Since these pictures were taken, my wife has stained it and put one coat of varnish on. Two or three more coats to go. Now that school ends tomorrow for her, she can spend more time there to knock it out.
Now that the porch slab is done and since the above pictures were taken, we have almost finished the siding around the door. Maybe two hours to finish that but I have to wait for some more J-channel to come in.
We have primed and painted the kitchen and installed the cabinets. I still need to put the refrigerator panels and over-ref cabinet in. I have to trim down some filler strips between some of the cabinets but my big tools are still in storage, so I will have to go the cabinet shop I help out in sometimes to cut them down. Living like a gypsy sucks
We have primed and painted the ceiling in 1/2 of the bedroom spaces and hope to finish that this week.
Later this week, I will rent a trencher for the 2 1/2" conduit to carry the 250MCM wire from the pole to the meter. They are calling for scattered storms for the first 1/2 of the week, so it will wait till the later part and schedule both the utility and local inspections for Thursday.
We have been able to get the front door in. Since these pictures were taken, my wife has stained it and put one coat of varnish on. Two or three more coats to go. Now that school ends tomorrow for her, she can spend more time there to knock it out.
Now that the porch slab is done and since the above pictures were taken, we have almost finished the siding around the door. Maybe two hours to finish that but I have to wait for some more J-channel to come in.
We have primed and painted the kitchen and installed the cabinets. I still need to put the refrigerator panels and over-ref cabinet in. I have to trim down some filler strips between some of the cabinets but my big tools are still in storage, so I will have to go the cabinet shop I help out in sometimes to cut them down. Living like a gypsy sucks
We have primed and painted the ceiling in 1/2 of the bedroom spaces and hope to finish that this week.
Later this week, I will rent a trencher for the 2 1/2" conduit to carry the 250MCM wire from the pole to the meter. They are calling for scattered storms for the first 1/2 of the week, so it will wait till the later part and schedule both the utility and local inspections for Thursday.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
One more thing. We have to pull the trigger on flooring and it may come down to a coin toss. 4" white oak, #1 common, 3'-10' lengths or 4" maple, 2nd grade (#1 common equivalent), 3'-10' lengths.
