Need some septic advice

[deanwerden]

So I live in an old farm house and the septic system dates to 50s-60s to my knowledge.

A few years ago I was having water in my basement so I dug up the west side of my house (where the septic is) to find zero perimeter tile on the west side of my house. I find there is tile across the back of the house that ties into the greywater from the septic and heads south into the field. So I install big o and an 18" culvert standing on end as a sump pit so I can keep an eye on things.

The greywater tile runs passes the sump with a t into the sump and on the opposite side, the perimeter tiles are tied together and feed the sump about 4 inches higher.

I have never had a problem until this year when I dig the back of the house and replaced the clay tile with big o and installed window wells with drains. With heavy water usage we are getting a greywater smell in the basement, I finally discovered yesterday that the sump pit outside is backing up(a perfect reason to put your sump outside folks!)

So I know that the tile going to the field is about 1/4 full of roots and mud from what I could see at the back of the house when I tied in, and I kniw about 25 feet away there is a giant poplar tree that I just cut down so I expect roots would be worse in this area.

Anyways my actual question is: should I just replace the tile running to the field or should I install some tees and run 15-20 feet east-west as a makeshift leach bed. It seems o have issues like this when we have had a lot of rain and I am wondering if the field can't drain fast enough in turn backing up my system.

As of now there is no weeping bed of any type just the field I guess but that tile was installed 30 years ago so I am unsure if it's condition

 

[mddorange]

Leach fields get clogged a lot and have to be replaced. It will always show up first when there is a lot of rain to saturate the ground. Tree roots will always go straight to leech fields and clay tile.

I had to add a couple of hundred feet of new leach field this year because my pecan tree roots clogged the old field.

 

[jaxs]

If I understand correctly,your shower and laundry waste water tie's into a rainwater/groundwater disposal leaching field. The ground is premiable enough that no gravel bed is required under to 30 year old leach field. At or near begaining of leach field you can see that line is 1/4tr filled with soil. The soil get's deeper at the same rate as slope in line. Even if roots are killed,the soil will still be a problem.
With that being true,I'd think the leach line is no longer working due mostly from being filled with soil. Soil around the line is full of silt making it less premiable. I wouldn't bother digging old line up,just install new line in a different location. The makeshift to get by until new line can be installed could be a pump connected to a couple of high volume sprinkler heads. If you dig to install makeshift lines,might as well install a new line and be done with it.

 

[deanwerden]

Yes my entire septic overflow is tied into the farmer field drains, the weeping bed I have is essentially one clay tile that goes to the farmer field. This is the tile that is half clogged. All of the tile I have dug up is direct layed and burried in clay, I honestly have no idea how it drains anyways.

I was planning on digging beside the existing and running my new line. Should it be filled with clear gravel like I used around my foundation or sand?

 

[RNeumann]

So I live in an old farm house and the septic system dates to 50s-60s to my knowledge.

A few years ago I was having water in my basement so I dug up the west side of my house (where the septic is) to find zero perimeter tile on the west side of my house. I find there is tile across the back of the house that ties into the greywater from the septic and heads south into the field. So I install big o and an 18" culvert standing on end as a sump pit so I can keep an eye on things.

The greywater tile runs passes the sump with a t into the sump and on the opposite side, the perimeter tiles are tied together and feed the sump about 4 inches higher.

I have never had a problem until this year when I dig the back of the house and replaced the clay tile with big o and installed window wells with drains. With heavy water usage we are getting a greywater smell in the basement, I finally discovered yesterday that the sump pit outside is backing up(a perfect reason to put your sump outside folks!)

So I know that the tile going to the field is about 1/4 full of roots and mud from what I could see at the back of the house when I tied in, and I kniw about 25 feet away there is a giant poplar tree that I just cut down so I expect roots would be worse in this area.

Anyways my actual question is: should I just replace the tile running to the field or should I install some tees and run 15-20 feet east-west as a makeshift leach bed. It seems o have issues like this when we have had a lot of rain and I am wondering if the field can't drain fast enough in turn backing up my system.

As of now there is no weeping bed of any type just the field I guess but that tile was installed 30 years ago so I am unsure if it's condition

I had a hard time following what exactly you did. But my first question is what are you calling “gray water”. Showers, sinks, laundry etc or something else? Do you have a P trap where the drain tile leaves the house?

Black water- toilets
Gray water- sinks, showers and laundry
Storm water- basements, gutters, drain tile etc

If those are mixed you will want a p-trap preventing black or gray water gasses entering the structure.

With the sump partially full are you seeing something that has been happening for 30 years and you are just noticing or is it truly new this year? It may be fine. Or it could be that all the new storm water you added to the existing system has overloaded it. If that’s the case you will want to add onto the existing system.
When you add on I like the old rock and 4” drain pipe. I add 90° at the ends and bring the pipe to the surface. With that I know exactly where my lines are, I can inspect them at any time and I can run a sewer snake or jet down them. You can’t to that with the other products on the market.

Good luck!

 

[jaxs]

Yes my entire septic overflow is tied into the farmer field drains, the weeping bed I have is essentially one clay tile that goes to the farmer field. This is the tile that is half clogged. All of the tile I have dug up is direct layed and burried in clay, I honestly have no idea how it drains anyways.

I was planning on digging beside the existing and running my new line. Should it be filled with clear gravel like I used around my foundation or sand?

Neither do I and that need's to be completely understood before replaceing or doing anything to the system.

 

[deanwerden]

The overflow water from the liquid side of the septic. I guess black and grey water, everything from the house anyways.

The sump having water in it is something I have just noticed since installing the tile across the back of the house, I am wondering if it is to much water for the system to handle like you mentioned

 

[deanwerden]

Neither do I and that need's to be completely understood before replaceing or doing anything to the system.

I think the general consensus is that it doesn't drain or I wouldn't be having these problems. I'm just trying to decide if I replace the line and forget about it or do I put in some tees and make a few runs out in the yard to help things drain

 

[deanwerden]

Also from my reading it seems like weeping beds are usually like 2-3 feet under the surface, where my line is closer to 5 feet down

 

[wagne223]

Septic drainfields have a lifespan. It varies depending on many factors but they all will fail at some point.

Sounds to me like you need a new drainfield and a thorough system check.

The house could have vent stack and p trap issues as well. (As was already mentioned)

If you are not familiar with septic and plumbing drain systems, you can save yourself a lot of headaches and possible health issues by hiring a professional.

For projects like this, I always get at least 3 bids and evaluations and make a choice from there.

Also, with a system that old, I would not be surprised if it needs a tank and pipes too.

Final note, once you have new system, keep all trees and shrubs away and do not drive over it with vehicles or a tractor.
Lawn mower only.

 

[RNeumann]

The overflow water from the liquid side of the septic. I guess black and grey water, everything from the house anyways.

The sump having water in it is something I have just noticed since installing the tile across the back of the house, I am wondering if it is to much water for the system to handle like you mentioned

So the “overflow” from the septic system is the normal Black Water. That is tied into your leach lines. The septic leach field isn’t designed to handle storm water. Leach fields are designed to handle a few hundred gallons a day. Storm Water could be that much an hour.
You will need to separate the storm water and the septic leach field. If it’s too late in the year to add a storm water leach field just use your little sump pump to pump the storm water to the low side of the property.

Storm tiles/drain tiles (another word that may be a misused word) are typically at the footing depth- irregardless of depth. If it’s a curtain drain or trench drain then those are typically 1-3’ unless an engineer has designed something to catch known subterranean water.

 

[deanwerden]

So the 登verflow from the septic system is the normal Black Water. That is tied into your leach lines. The septic leach field isn稚 designed to handle storm water. Leach fields are designed to handle a few hundred gallons a day. Storm Water could be that much an hour.
You will need to separate the storm water and the septic leach field. If it痴 too late in the year to add a storm water leach field just use your little sump pump to pump the storm water to the low side of the property.

Storm tiles/drain tiles (another word that may be a misused word) are typically at the footing depth- irregardless of depth. If it痴 a curtain drain or trench drain then those are typically 1-3 unless an engineer has designed something to catch known subterranean water.

Would one run the sump pump into a French drain? My property doesn't really have a low side, and I don't really want to run a sump to the ditch just because it does have septic water mixed with it

 

[RNeumann]

Would one run the sump pump into a French drain? My property doesn't really have a low side, and I don't really want to run a sump to the ditch just because it does have septic water mixed with it

If the property doesn’t have a low spot or drain then you will need to dig a leach pit or field for the storm water. You will need to separate the storm water and black/gray water before it goes into the sumps- one for sewer and one for storm water. You could be looking at a large storm water system- I’m surprised their isn’t someplace that drains- where does all the water from the gutters and or roof go?

 

[deanwerden]

If the property doesn稚 have a low spot or drain then you will need to dig a leach pit or field for the storm water. You will need to separate the storm water and black/gray water before it goes into the sumps- one for sewer and one for storm water. You could be looking at a large storm water system- I知 surprised their isn稚 someplace that drains- where does all the water from the gutters and or roof go?

On the ground behind the house, that is one thing that should be changed and have the gutters come off the front of the house because the front yard slopes to the ditch

 

[RNeumann]

If I’m understanding this correctly you are running the risk of not have a usable septic system when the storm water increases- no toilets, no shower, no sinks etc.
If you can’t get the storm water in its own leach field or pit before winter I stand by my thought that you will need to separate the storm water and pump it on the surface to the low spot or the ditch.
If I’m understanding this correctly you will literally be up sh** creek in your basement. Not trying to be an alarmist but don’t want to see this escalate either......hoping for no precipitation.

 

[deanwerden]

If I知 understanding this correctly you are running the risk of not have a usable septic system when the storm water increases- no toilets, no shower, no sinks etc.
If you can稚 get the storm water in its own leach field or pit before winter I stand by my thought that you will need to separate the storm water and pump it on the surface to the low spot or the ditch.
If I知 understanding this correctly you will literally be up sh** creek in your basement. Not trying to be an alarmist but don稚 want to see this escalate either......hoping for no precipitation.

Yes that's why I'm asking for suggestions because I want to get things fixed before snow

 

[joe48]

Septic drainfields have a lifespan. It varies depending on many factors but they all will fail at some point.

Sounds to me like you need a new drainfield and a thorough system check.

The house could have vent stack and p trap issues as well. (As was already mentioned)

If you are not familiar with septic and plumbing drain systems, you can save yourself a lot of headaches and possible health issues by hiring a professional.

For projects like this, I always get at least 3 bids and evaluations and make a choice from there.

Also, with a system that old, I would not be surprised if it needs a tank and pipes too.

Final note, once you have new system, keep all trees and shrubs away and do not drive over it with vehicles or a tractor.
Lawn mower only.

All above good advice plus check with your county health department and the state Dept of Environmental Conservation for current regulations and requirements. They should have pamphlets or on line info. Do this before you start talking to contractors so you are informed. Then do some asking for references at the coffee shop, lumber yard plumbing supply tractor dealer, you'll find out who's good and bad pretty quick.
Next determine the depth of your frost line, then the type of soil at that level. If its clay I've had very good results by using 4 or 6" perforated pipe with the cloth sleeve(get it with the sleeve already on it!), then use pea gravel or 1/2" crush to bed and cover the pipe with 6" gravel top and bottom and if it's fine clay or sand lay fabric on top of gravel before backfilling to prevent soil clogging gravel. In clay the old rule of thumb I use is 100 ft of leach line for each person in house. Grey or black water same thing and pipe can be straight line or leach field layout depending on lay of the land. If you replace the septic tank go at least 1000 gallon.
Last to keep the system clean use enzymes once or twice a year and you shouldn't need to have system pumped for at least 5 years, maybe 10.

 

[deanwerden]

I am in the midst of digging it up, broken outlet pipe off the septic and lots of questionable tile. It is angling into the field right under a cluster of trees so I suspect I'll find lots of good stuff in there. Got a chance to talk to my neighbor and his leach bed is 60 feet of the plastic leach Chambers tied into field tile and a separate line for his perimeter tile. I am going to separate mine and will end up with probably 100 feet of weeping bed for each before they tie into the field. Lots of gravel

 

[deanwerden]

Also bought a pump for my sump hole, I'll bury a line run into the cedars to take care of any extra, now that it is clean water not grey