Need Help - F24 Overheating

[normde2001]

There are no missing parts. Go back and read the thread. All parts have been installed.

. . and it didn't fix the problem, right? People only remove tstats if they are overheating. So you still have neither blown out the rad fins nor back-flushed First blow out the fins, (from back to front, common sense), then back-flush, (Google it),

 

[adt2]

. . and it didn't fix the problem, right?

Apparently not. I thought it was fixed; the tractor stopped overheating after replacing the temperature sending unit and the thermostat, and flushing the radiator (pulled the plug, let all the fluid run out, ran hose into top & let run for 10 minutes or so, replaced fluid). Immediately after doing this, I was able to use the tractor for several hours non-stop to backfill a trench with the box blade and FEL. No overheating issues at all.

So you still have neither blown out the rad fins nor back-flushed

No, haven't done either of those because until yesterday or the day before, there was no indication that the previous steps I had taken hadn't fixed it. (See above.)

First blow out the fins, (from back to front, common sense), then back-flush

It's fairly condescending for you to say it's common sense. Maybe it's common sense to you; to me, it's Greek. (As a for-example, it never would've occurred to me to blow the radiator out from back-to-front.) I'm not a mechanic, and the reason I keep asking for help is because I feel like we're getting to the limit of what I can comfortably do on my own without causing further damage.

Google it

Tractor owner (to Google): Need help with tractor
Google (to tractor owner): See tractor support forum
Tractor owner (to tractor support forum): Need help with tractor
Tractor support forum (to tractor owner): See Google

Ain't the internet grand?

On the plus side, I bumped into a local guy this morning who has a lead on a diesel mechanic that might be able to come give me hand. Not sure what it'll cost, but it'll surely be cheaper than a new tractor.

 

[clemsonfor]

remove the cap and look in the radiator as soon as you start up for a few mniutes. There will be small ones from vibration but if your getting gulping bubbles in there its combustion gasses. There is also tests that you can take a sample with and send it off to see if there is combustion gases and fuel in your coolant.

But just cause the cap and rad hold pressure that does not mean its not stopped up. You really need to remove it and geet it to a shop. I bet they dont charge you $25 to check it? If they Rod it out it usually might be something like $60-80 for it.

 

[Djames55]

You are doing good so far... Don't give up... These guys all know what they are telling you... What they are doing is what any mechanic would have to do to get to the bottom of the problem... They are taking a step or two at a time...These suggestions are the ones that don't cost a lot of money and need to be done anyway on a 30 year old tractor that had muddy rice paddy water put into the tractors radiator when it needed a little water... Look for the bubbles as they told you... If you see bubbles say 1/8 to 1/4+ most likely head gasket... But I would also go ahead and get the pros to clean out the radiator first... These guys here have taken many people step by step in replacing the head gasket... No reason you can't do that also... Only thing you may have to do is borrow or rent a torque wrench or you can buy a new craftsman for $40 at sears. A lot cheaper than paying a mechanic...

 

[clemsonfor]

Good post DJ.

And yess these tractors had puddle water in them. My radiator is new and i have flushed my tractor with a hose in the radiator and it running for 10 mins or so and i still have mud residue in the overflow bottle. Reminds me i ought to change my coolant and flush the tractor again.

 

[adt2]

okay, I started the tractor with the radiator cap off, and after about 5 minutes, I have a nice rolling boil. Which strikes me as bad, based on the comments above. Also (and this is a new problem), the radiator was only about half full of fluid. No idea where the rest of it went. I filled it to overflowing when I flushed the radiator a couple of weeks ago, and it has not had an hour of runtime since then. I suppose it's all related.

based on all of this, would you guys recommend I pulled the radiator and have it checked? Or move straight to head gasket?

 

[kenmac]

Why take the hardest route 1st ?? Take the easiest route 1 st.. That's the radiator..

 

[clemsonfor]

okay, I started the tractor with the radiator cap off, and after about 5 minutes, I have a nice rolling boil. Which strikes me as bad, based on the comments above. Also (and this is a new problem), the radiator was only about half full of fluid. No idea where the rest of it went. I filled it to overflowing when I flushed the radiator a couple of weeks ago, and it has not had an hour of runtime since then. I suppose it's all related.

based on all of this, would you guys recommend I pulled the radiator and have it checked? Or move straight to head gasket?

Boiling just means your over heating. i think your radiator is plugged. If the head was bad you would be bubbles the whole time which is actually exhaust or combustion gasses forced into the coolant. the boiling after 5 mins sounds just like what you get when running, the tractor overheating.

I would pull the radiator first. it can be out in 30 mins. And if the head is blown you have to pull the radiator anyway cause there is a reason it did and that is most likely due to a faulty or plugged radiator. And no body in thier right mind would do a head gasket and not check and or replace the radiator????

I think you have a partially blocked radiator, basically meaning its plugged with rust/corrosion or mud or crud and your basically only able to cool with part of the radiator. The part that has coolant passing through it.

 

[adt2]

Okay, got it. Next stupid question: how do I get the radiator out? I can't really see any mounting bolts (granted, the FEL is pretty much in the way of everything). ****, I couldn't even get the hose off of it when I was working on the thermostat project.

 

[clemsonfor]

On yours i am not sure. Radiators only mount from the top. They just sit on studs on the bottom usually. Cant speak to yours specifically but every car i have worked on and my ym2000 was that way. i think the 2000 has a metal strut that comes off the engine that it mounts to that holds it in there? I cant remember as its been a few years since i did it.

You need to take the fan shroud off though to get access. And any side panels that it may have to easily get to it.

My YM2000 also has a drain plug on the frame on the motor side of the radaitor , or more toward the engine. Follow the little 1/2' size hose if there is one and there might be a drain like mine had. It has two hoses that run to it one from engine block and one from radiator so that they can drain them easy to put up for winter. As they must not use antifreeze over there and just use ditch water..as everyone says there always full of mud, as was mine.

 

[normde2001]

What you saw was just what occurs when the tstat opens. Whatever you do, don't blow out the fins, (easiest), or back-flush the system, (2nd easiest),:confused3: which will clean out the block as well as the radiator. Good luck.

 

[winston1]

2 grommets with studs under the radiator. 2 heavy wire brackets that brace at the top on each side.

 

[clemsonfor]

What you saw was just what occurs when the tstat opens. Whatever you do, don't blow out the fins, (easiest), or back-flush the system, (2nd easiest),:confused3: which will clean out the block as well as the radiator. Good luck.

You cant flush a clog out. They need to have the side tanks removed and each tube "rodded" out to remove eveything.

I had a radiator that would run boarder line hot on an S15 i had and each time the thermostat opened it would shoot way up when the motor was first started. Took it to an old school radiator shop and they rodded it out and then repainted it and it was as good as new. The truck ran cooler for the life of it.

 

[normde2001]

"You cant flush a clog out."

I have done it several times over the years with a back-flush. If the system will take the full force of the water pressure it is clear.

 

[clemsonfor]

well you had good luck i guess.

 

[adt2]

Noah's flood v2.0 has finally subsided around here, so I'm headed over there today to try to pull the radiator. I'm still unclear on how to backflush - is that something I should do myself, or do I just need to find a radiator shop?

 

[clemsonfor]

By back flushing it usually means to put the hose in the radiator hose hole on the bottom and let it run over out the top till clear.

I have done similar things by outting the hose in the radiator cap hole and taking the top hose loose and letting it run till clear. THe tractor suck coolent out of the bottom and the crud water that goes thoough the block and radiator is expelled out of the top hose onto the ground. the hose turbulance will sometimes stirr up more crud.

The also make commercial radiator "flushes" that you add to the radiator and run for some time based upon instrctions and then fill again and drain or something. It helps break scale off with chemicals. I have heard it can bust loose and cause leaks in older weaker radiators. i would try all of the above and then pull if if none of that really works.

 

[adt2]

By the time I saw the post above, I'd already pulled the radiator. I just dropped it at a local rebuild shop to be cleaned. Guy said it looked like it was in pretty good shape but you never know until you take it apart.

I guess I'll know for sure tomorrow.

 

[clemsonfor]

Thats fine. No big deal. HOnestly professional cleaning is best.

 

[normde2001]

By back flushing it usually means to put the hose in the radiator hose hole on the bottom and let it run over out the top till clear.

I have done similar things by outting the hose in the radiator cap hole and taking the top hose loose and letting it run till clear. THe tractor suck coolent out of the bottom and the crud water that goes thoough the block and radiator is expelled out of the top hose onto the ground. the hose turbulance will sometimes stirr up more crud.

The also make commercial radiator "flushes" that you add to the radiator and run for some time based upon instrctions and then fill again and drain or something. It helps break scale off with chemicals. I have heard it can bust loose and cause leaks in older weaker radiators. i would try all of the above and then pull if if none of that really works.

That is Not a back-flush. Normally the water and trash flows through the rad, top to bottom, out the bottom hose and up through the block , out the upper hose and back into the radiator. You need to disconnect the upper hose stuff a garden hose into the upper hose and seal with shop rags, turn on the water and let it push the trash back out the open cap inlet, same way it came it. If it will take the full force of water and runs clear, both the block and radiator are clean. A radiator shop won't clean your block.