My NX6010

MinnesotaEric · Apr 4, 2016

It snowed 3" yesterday but April snows don't stick around. So I'm mowing.

MinnesotaEric · Apr 5, 2016

I managed to get my tractor up to the north end of the new parcel. I still must cut in the permanent road, but with conifers on order, I want to clear as much as I can, and so I managed to widen out a deer trail to get the tractor up to this point.

This lake has a 100' setback and this section of the property would be perfect for walkout basement homes that would feature excellent western and southern exposure. The land is just gradual enough to avoid an additional bluff impact setback, so homes could be built closer to the lake than where I'm standing.

Looking dead west.

MinnesotaEric · Apr 16, 2016

Yesterday, apparently one of the three bolts that hold the rearward baffle on my Woods BB720X must have popped off and the rotary cutter peeling the baffle right off. From my perspective, it acted as though I had a stump that needed grinding. After a try on grinding with no success, I backed off and realized I had been trying to grind a wadded up baffle.

Without the baffle the rotary cutter now works like Brown's design--if anything it is better at eating up wooden bits, but I'm wondering if the baffle's true purpose is to catch loose blades?

Today, one of the Parker hoses for my Everything Attachment's Wicked Root Grapple gave up the ghost. No fault on the part of the hoses as over a year ago the hoses held the weight of the grapple when it popped off of my SSQA forcing me to carry my grapple out of fire by the hoses alone.

Even so, today's production was brushing out the land toward the north end of my lakeshore.

Hills never seem as scary as they are in real life.

joefromga · Apr 16, 2016

Your front wheels seem really small. Did you change them?

Threepoint · Apr 16, 2016

EricTheOracle said:
Yesterday, apparently one of the three bolts that hold the rearward baffle on my Woods BB720X must have popped off and the rotary cutter peeling the baffle right off. From my perspective, it acted as though I had a stump that needed grinding. After a try on grinding with no success, I backed off and realized I had been trying to grind a wadded up baffle.

Without the baffle the rotary cutter now works like Brown's design--if anything it is better at eating up wooden bits, but I'm wondering if the baffle's true purpose is to catch loose blades?
[snip]

Maybe it's to absorb the initial impact of the slung material. Seems like that would save wear and tear on the apron of the cutter. Easier to replace a baffle than weld a cracked apron, as a friend has had to do several times on an old, generic rotary cutter he uses only for chopping up very heavy brush.

BTW, looks like your cutter has otherwise held up well to some pretty heavy use over the past year!

HK45 · Apr 19, 2016

Hey Eric, I was going to order A NX6010. Are other people having this issues with the tranny popping out? Is the dealer not helping you get it fixed? Your the only thing holding me back from ordering one. Also what size grappler is that? thanks

ishiboo · Apr 19, 2016

HK45 said:
Hey Eric, I was going to order A NX6010. Are other people having this issues with the tranny popping out? Is the dealer not helping you get it fixed? Your the only thing holding me back from ordering one. Also what size grappler is that? thanks

I have not had the tranny pop out ever, but it is occasionally difficult to get into gear. It's like the teeth are not matching up. A trick I've found is to turn the steeling wheel back and forth a bit, which causes the tractor to move slightly and sometimes makes it easy.

I plan on buying the backhoe this spring (but the subframe is backordered until mid-June) and will bring it up to the dealer then and see if they can make any improvements.

Overall, I love the tractor. The only thing I would say is consider the RX as well... the pricing seems very competitive, and being that I use pallet forks quite a bit a self-leveling loader would come in handy at times... plus I think the power shift would have been fine for what I do.

Threepoint · Apr 19, 2016

ishiboo said:
I have not had the tranny pop out ever, but it is occasionally difficult to get into gear. It's like the teeth are not matching up. A trick I've found is to turn the steeling wheel back and forth a bit, which causes the tractor to move slightly and sometimes makes it easy.
[snip]

I've had my NX4510HST for a little over two years without a tranny pop. As I've posted awhile back, what I thought was an instance of a few pop-outs turned out, in my case, to be my boot inadvertently hitting both the forward and reverse pedals simultaneously. Doesn't take much to trigger the safety feature.

As for occasional difficulty coaxing the range selector into gear from neutral, I've recently discovered something that works well for me. Now I just goose either the forward or reverse pedal (doesn't seem to matter which) hard once to rev the rpms way up for a second or two, then let up completely. When they've almost completely wound back down, the lever slips right into gear. It's been working every time for me. I'd been revving the rpms in the past, but just hadn't gotten them up high enough and then hadn't let them wind down enough. There's definitely a sweet spot to hit. Just took me awhile to recognize it.

Ishiboo, and other NX owners, try experimenting with that and see if it works for you too. Let us know what you find.

Fallon · Apr 22, 2016

ishiboo said:
I have not had the tranny pop out ever, but it is occasionally difficult to get into gear. It's like the teeth are not matching up. A trick I've found is to turn the steeling wheel back and forth a bit, which causes the tractor to move slightly and sometimes makes it easy.

Every HST tractor is that way. They all have unsynchronized 3 (occasionally 2) speed transmissions. Often teeth don't line up & need a nudge. Wiggle the wheel, bump the go pedal, let it roll a hair, etc. Are all standard remedies for this with JD, Kubota, Kioti & others.

They cheap out on the transmissions because they can. You don't shift a HST that much so a cheap basic tranny is a cost effective & proven option.

comancheflight · Apr 22, 2016

Just push or pull the shifter gently towards the range you want and slightly push the forward pedal and then release. You can actually feel the gears slow down and mesh then pop into gear. Works like a charm.