My NX6010

[ishiboo]

It is obvious to anyone knows about hydraulics, but then they wouldn't need the video to assist... so I was just clarifying for people who didn't know, or clarify if it was a fitting I wasn't aware of. Didn't mean to offend.

Have you had a tilt link before and found you needed load checks? I'll be doing this project very soon, or at least a top link as I keep my implements parallel to the ground 99.99% of the time.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

It is obvious to anyone knows about hydraulics, but then they wouldn't need the video to assist... so I was just clarifying for people who didn't know, or clarify if it was a fitting I wasn't aware of. Didn't mean to offend.

Have you had a tilt link before and found you needed load checks? I'll be doing this project very soon, or at least a top link as I keep my implements parallel to the ground 99.99% of the time.

I made the video so everybody knows what sizes things are so they can easily duplicate a check valve set-up. I didn't make the video as a how-to.

I want anti-creep valves on the tilting cylinder for the same reason I have anti-creep valves on my top link cylinder: so junk stays put.

 

[ishiboo]

Wow, okay. I'll leave this thread alone so as not to further disturb your video making.

 

[IslandTractor]

I don't have a hydraulic tilt but have used a simple hydraulic topping lift on my DK for the past seven years. Never noticed any creep. I couldn't say that it doesn't move a millimeter or two as the implements I use with it are not all that sensitive (mowers, box blade, rake) but it is fine for "tractor work". I've never understood the rush to get check valves on topping lifts. Maybe it would be critical for leveling a NASA launch pad but for routine CUT use I just don't get it.

 

[DK35vince]

I don't have a hydraulic tilt but have used a simple hydraulic topping lift on my DK for the past seven years. Never noticed any creep. I couldn't say that it doesn't move a millimeter or two as the implements I use with it are not all that sensitive (mowers, box blade, rake) but it is fine for "tractor work". I've never understood the rush to get check valves on topping lifts. Maybe it would be critical for leveling a NASA launch pad but for routine CUT use I just don't get it.

I had a tilt cylinder without a check valve that leaked down and it was a huge PITA (especially with the brush mower on). So I get it.
I had enough and put top and tilt cylinders on with check valves 10 or 11 years ago and have had no leak down problems ever since.
I have recommended check valves ever since.

 

[s219]

I don't have a hydraulic tilt but have used a simple hydraulic topping lift on my DK for the past seven years. Never noticed any creep. I couldn't say that it doesn't move a millimeter or two as the implements I use with it are not all that sensitive (mowers, box blade, rake) but it is fine for "tractor work". I've never understood the rush to get check valves on topping lifts. Maybe it would be critical for leveling a NASA launch pad but for routine CUT use I just don't get it.

For sure, you don't want a check valve if there is a need to float one of the links, which is somewhat common for top link use (grading, bush hogs, etc). Can't think of reason why the side link would need to float, but there are probably some.

I haven't noticed any creep with my remote valves and top link setup that would matter on the timescale of tractor jobs. If I leave my tractor parked for several days with the box blade raised up, the top link will slowly creep. But I have never seen it moving while in use. Ultimately, I think it comes down to how precise the valve spools are.

 

[IslandTractor]

I had a tilt cylinder without a check valve that leaked down and it was a huge PITA (especially with the brush mower on). So I get it.
I had enough and put top and tilt cylinders on with check valves 10 or 11 years ago and have had no leak down problems ever since.
I have recommended check valves ever since.

Was your tilt cylinder defective? I imagine based on your assessment that it was a huge PITA that it leaked in "real time" and required constant adjustment or rework. I just don't have any cylinders on the tractor (FEL, topping lift) or backhoe that leak down fast enough to be noticed in a day. If a tilt cylinder leaks fast enough to cause problems, wouldn't that be evidence of a defect/wear???

 

[DK35vince]

Was your tilt cylinder defective? I imagine based on your assessment that it was a huge PITA that it leaked in "real time" and required constant adjustment or rework. I just don't have any cylinders on the tractor (FEL, topping lift) or backhoe that leak down fast enough to be noticed in a day. If a tilt cylinder leaks fast enough to cause problems, wouldn't that be evidence of a defect/wear???

An example would be when brush mowing, my tilt cylinder would drift down 1/2" or 1" seemed like every 15 to 20 minutes or so.
1/2" to inch at the tilt cylinder = several inches at side of the brush mower, and the side of the mower would be scalping/digging in and I had to constantly be re leveling the mower.
I don't know what was causing the leak down. All I know is that cylinders with check valves solved it.
My top and tilt cylinders with check valves never leak down.

 

[aczlan]

An example would be when brush mowing, my tilt cylinder would drift down 1/2" or 1" seemed like every 15 to 20 minutes or so.
1/2" to inch at the tilt cylinder = several inches at side of the brush mower, and the side of the mower would be scalping/digging in and I had to constantly be re leveling the mower.
I don't know what was causing the leak down. All I know is that cylinders with check valves solved it.
My top and tilt cylinders with check valves never leak down.

If the check valve fixed it, the problem was the remote on your tractor letting a little bit of fluid past the seals.

Aaron Z

 

[Threepoint]

I made the video so everybody knows what sizes things are so they can easily duplicate a check valve set-up. I didn't make the video as a how-to.

I want anti-creep valves on the tilting cylinder for the same reason I have anti-creep valves on my top link cylinder: so junk stays put.

Really appreciate you doing this, Eric. I haven't gotten around yet to adding hydraulic tilt, but intend to get serious about this soon. I, too, will want a check valve on the sidelink. Your Cat 2 3pt hitch has different dimensions than my Cat 1 at the link arms and lift arms, so the clevis-end requirements are different. But your video, fitting info and feedback on MIE's good service is nice to have if I end up having to put together my own set-up.

 

[IslandTractor]

An example would be when brush mowing, my tilt cylinder would drift down 1/2" or 1" seemed like every 15 to 20 minutes or so.
1/2" to inch at the tilt cylinder = several inches at side of the brush mower, and the side of the mower would be scalping/digging in and I had to constantly be re leveling the mower.
I don't know what was causing the leak down. All I know is that cylinders with check valves solved it.
My top and tilt cylinders with check valves never leak down.

That does sound like a major PITA but still seems also to possibly be caused by a defective cylinder. A good cylinder would not drift down even 1/2" in 15-20 minutes. I suppose adding a check valve would accomplish about the same thing as rebuilding or replacing the cylinder though for this type of use.

What I don't understand though is folks jumping directly to check valves on a new installation. It adds quite a bit of extra cost and leaves a vulnerable collection of piping etc on the cylinder that might snag something.

I've never rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder myself but I watched a demonstration at Rick Wallace's shop (I forget the TBN user name of the pro who did it). It took him about fifteen minutes. No idea what a hydraulic shop would charge for a rebuild but it is likely cheaper and quicker than adding a check valve.

 

[murphy1244]

Its usually the remote that leaks. That's the way mine works. Unplug your lines and see if it moves.

 

[DK35vince]

What I don't understand though is folks jumping directly to check valves on a new installation.

If the cylinder leaks down and you need to buy cylinders again (like I did) why not just put cylinders with check valves on in the first place and be done with it is what I recommend.
My check valves do not stick out far enough to cause a problem. I barely notice they are there.
Leak down on top/tilt cylinders is a fairly common problem on TBN. I have read about it multiple times here.
A 1 minute search I found this as an example Search Results - TractorByNet.com
Putting on check valves the first time might just save you unwanted/unnecessary issues later IMO.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I mocked up the cylinder as much as I could, snugging up what could be snugged up while leaving everything else loose before fitting the ram on my tractor out in the field.

 

[IslandTractor]

If the cylinder leaks down and you need to buy cylinders again (like I did) why not just put cylinders with check valves on in the first place and be done with it is what I recommend.
My check valves do not stick out far enough to cause a problem. I barely notice they are there.
Leak down on top/tilt cylinders is a fairly common problem on TBN. Search Results - TractorByNet.com
Putting on check valves the first time might just save you unwanted/unnecessary issues later IMO.

I understand your points. Still, as not everyone (probably a minority) of folks have problems with leak down it seems expensive "insurance" to get check valves from the start. I forget what they cost but I recall it adds at least $100 for each cylinder. If only 10% of people have problems with regular cylinders (not sure it is that high) then the cost/benefit seems poor. I'd love to see some real data rather than anecdotes. It just seems like decisions are made based on rumor more than anything else about this (and many other things) on TBN.

Also, I hadn't considered Murph's suggestion that perhaps it is the remote rather than the cylinder that is leaking?

 

[DK35vince]

Its usually the remote that leaks. That's the way mine works. Unplug your lines and see if it moves.

Don't need to, thanks.
I replaced the cylinder that leaked down with one that has a tilt cylinder that had a check valve 11 years ago that solved the problem.
I should have went with check valves in the first place and been done with it.

 

[94BULLITT]

Did you get the radio to work with your phone?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Did you get the radio to work with your phone?

No I did not. The tractor is back out in the field until it comes back for service or needs repair.

 

[s219]

Really, the only downsides to the check valve is the little added cost and the fact that it defeats using any types of float functions. To me the cost is a minor factor (considering how much we spend on remote valves, cylinders, etc) but the float function is a "go" or "no-go" decision.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Really, the only downsides to the check valve is the little added cost and the fact that it defeats using any types of float functions. To me the cost is a minor factor (considering how much we spend on remote valves, cylinders, etc) but the float function is a "go" or "no-go" decision.

Moreover, consider the increased functionality check valves offer when one has the top and tilt using two of the three rear valves, but an attachment needs two functions as well. Screw around with taking off the tilt ram, or simply disconnect the ram, let the check valves do their thing, and use the remote that was serving the tilt ram on the attachment?

Safety, and increased functionality.