My new Ford 4000

[gemutlich]

**** good feeling, that first go ain't it? Thanks for the video, almost like being there.

 

[kuschneider]

**** good feeling, that first go ain't it? Thanks for the video, almost like being there.

Yeah, it really was. Luckily I am a teacher, and have been off all summer. So I have been able to do a lot of internet research, and reading in general. It has been parked in my garage, which means I have logged some serious hours on that bastard. We took a risk, although not too much since it was so cheap, but we right now we got a running and rolling tractor tractor, b-hog, and blade for some manual labor. We are about $250 into counting, manuals, solvents, rebuild kit, solenoid, oil, filter, plugs, etc etc etc. Figure we got another $100 or so in fluids, and an air cleaner in the future. Will be needing tires eventually, maybe a rear rim.

Real question is this a long term machine for us, or something to sell to get us into a machine that is more "maintainable". The SOS tranny, and availability of parts has me a little worried. Guess we shall see. I have learned a lot in the last 6 weeks.

 

[kuschneider]

My temp gauge and capillary tube appear to be shot. Anything special I need to know about swapping it out? Looks like a simple remove the tube engine and gauge from dash and insert new one at both ends?


EDIT: Scratch that....it works

 

[Soundguy]

Nice rowcrop!

 

[the old grind]

Someday something could go South and prove not worth investing further. At that point you might part it out (or sell whole for that) and make most of your bucks back, considering total $$ so far.

A suggestion: 'lash' the valves (per manual) if you haven't. You may get the carb sorted out sooner than it's running smoothly and not be so sure what's up. (low power, slightly rough running w or w/o load)

Next would be a compression/leak-down test w/ all s-plugs out when cranking/reading. You might have done this before on something and be familiar. If not, a few more bucks at HFT for a 'close enuf' gauge, w/adapters if needed.

(It could smooth out some if the rings are stuck (comp test will show) and loosen after more warmups/hours.)

Y'know a guy wouldn't find a quad with food plot tools for such low $$ ... or likely want to park one on site.
IMO, 'specialization' is for tractors. :cool2:

Nice 'package'! :thumbsup:

 

[kuschneider]

Old Grind,

It is even better than the original price. We got the package in exchange for some sweat equity, no $$$ out of pocket. My buddy is doing some electric and carpentry work and I am providing the initial $$ to get it up and going. I havent spend a penny outside of the parts/fluids/supplies to get it up and running.

The video makes it sound a little worse that it really is. I think it is "loosening" up a bit. Had it running in the garage today, sounded smoother. Right now the struggle is the low RPM idle. Cant get it to idle below about 900 RPM, and I need a little choke to accomplish that. Assuming the TACH is correct. The hour meter works, reads 2786. my gut tells me it is original. Getting out and driving freed up the Park safety switch. Previously I had bypassed it, but today it occurred to me that we might have freed something up. So I removed my jumper wire, and hooked the Park switch wire back up and it fired off.

I realized that I didn't set the float level prior to reassembling and attaching the carb. :banghead: Wonder how much is affecting things.

Looking forward

Need Air cleaner
Battery
Swap Tranny and Diff fluid,


Not sure what "lash the valves" means.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement. Amazing how these things can sit for years, years, and years and spring back into action so quickly.

 

[the old grind]

If you have an I&T manual (you said earlier?) 'lash' would be under valve adjustment or similar for the walk thru' and spec'd with your engine's other details in the front pages. Valve cover comes off ... (btw, look for foreign matter, sludge in/under it) ... and you'd want any ol' feeler gauge set and a new VC gasket on hand.

btw: you may not be confident at first when positioning the crankshaft (twice during, just turning by hand with s-plugs out) but the instructions are in pretty plain English (if I'm not always ) so ... IMO 2-3 of 5 on elbow grease or difficulty even if not much experience under vehicle hoods. (compression test ~ a 1, btw)

Possible causes for 'lean'/weak idle besides incorrect float level are carb or manifold gasket leak, plugged pilot jet, throttle shaft leak, vacuum leak to distributor advance biz, even stuck advance weights that don't ******. btw, at 900 rpm, needing the choke does mean something is 'up with that'. :laughing:

General bits from me, and not make/model-specific. As always, expect much good Ford help from TBN'ers who wrench & ride 4xxx's vs uh ... just envy someone else's.

 

[kuschneider]

T.O.G.

I'll put that one a little further down the line on my To-Do's. I will double check manifold and carb bolts. Thanks

 

[the old grind]

Sure. And sorry if my 'important' sounded like 'urgent' too. ('not')
Oh, and "that's all I got" for now, but I'll be 'following'. :drink:

 

[Soundguy]

, vacuum leak to distributor advance biz, .

You will look a looooong time trying to find a vac leak on that machines distributor advance mechanism...