log splitter engine
- Thread starter baddnee
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LD1
Epic Contributor
I'll bite. What exactly is an auto-throttle?
And why would you need one on a splitter?
I wouldnt want the added complexity to an already simple and efficient design.
And why would you need one on a splitter?
I wouldnt want the added complexity to an already simple and efficient design.
jlgurr
Veteran Member
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I'll bite too. We want one because it only needs to rev up when the log is really tough. Otherwise just above idle is plenty enough get up and go and it's not so loud and much more fuel efficient. I'll watch this thread to see how it progresses.
LD1
Epic Contributor
While you may not need the RPM's for the power to pop the log, it will be slower at a lower RPM.
1800RPM will only cycle half the speed of 3600RPM.
And it really dont make it much quieter IMO. We have a 3-phase motor on one of the splitters. Its still loud. Hydraulic pump whine. Not as quiet as we were hoping for, but still nice to split indoors where its warm and not fume yourself out.
Fuel consumption is nil. On my 16.5HP/22GPM combo AND on dads 6.5HP/11GPM combo, its maybe a quart or 1/2 gallon per cord. Not enough to even worry about IMO
1800RPM will only cycle half the speed of 3600RPM.
And it really dont make it much quieter IMO. We have a 3-phase motor on one of the splitters. Its still loud. Hydraulic pump whine. Not as quiet as we were hoping for, but still nice to split indoors where its warm and not fume yourself out.
Fuel consumption is nil. On my 16.5HP/22GPM combo AND on dads 6.5HP/11GPM combo, its maybe a quart or 1/2 gallon per cord. Not enough to even worry about IMO
KeithRa
New member
I think he talking like on larger excavators or a miller welder. It idles till a load is sensed then it excites a solenoid on throttle. If I where you I would check on the miller welder repair manuals. They show wiring and parts need. miller welders web site has repair manuals online.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Interesting concept. Given the small engines, limited idle time, and already fuel efficient engines, I dont think the cost and complexity would be worth it. :2cents:
But would be cool if you could make one work.
But would be cool if you could make one work.
KubotainNH
Veteran Member
I had a Generac generator that idled down when no load via a solenoid like someone else mentioned. The solenoid was stronger than the governor spring. You could possibly setup a switch that when the hydraulic valve is in the neutral position the solenoid is powered and the engine idles. Push on the valve lever and the solenoid shuts off letting it rev up. That would be a simple way and the governor would still function for the load needed.
franklin2
Gold Member
I wonder if you could find a pressure switch like this.
1200 PSI NO MICO 20-580-021D1200 PRESSURE SWITCH
And hook it up to a solenoid hooked to the throttle. It would be better if you could find an adjustable switch.
1200 PSI NO MICO 20-580-021D1200 PRESSURE SWITCH
And hook it up to a solenoid hooked to the throttle. It would be better if you could find an adjustable switch.
franklin2
Gold Member
Or, depending on how your cylinder is mounted, if you could elongate the mounting holes slightly and put a very large adjustable spring against the cylinder, you could put a microswitch on the cylinder and when it moved back in the holes the switch would activate and raise the rpm of the engine.
that's what I`m talkin about. where to get the parts @ how to hook it up........ lets do this..
thanks.kubotainnh
KubotainNH
Veteran Member
Below is a link to the parts diagram for the generator I had that would idle down. Looks like the "Transformer Idle Cnt" is the electro-magnet that throttles it down. I do recall that it was not very strong and everything had to be just right for it to work. I would want a stronger solenoid. The question is where do you get the power to run it? I don't recall many log-splitters that have a 12volt generator on them.
Generac 4000XL Parts List and Diagram - (9777-1) : eReplacementParts.com
Franklin2's thought of a mechanical way could work too. Some sort of throttle cable could be used but you'd want to make sure it had little resistance and at max pull didn't rev the engine too high. The other end could tie to the hydraulic valve handle with a spring assuming the cable is pulled back via another spring. A bicycle cable could do the job cheaply and it would be a simple solution at least to run the piston out. You would lose the speed on return unless you got a bit more ingenious with the setup, still doable.
Any pictures of the splitter you can post?
Generac 4000XL Parts List and Diagram - (9777-1) : eReplacementParts.com
Franklin2's thought of a mechanical way could work too. Some sort of throttle cable could be used but you'd want to make sure it had little resistance and at max pull didn't rev the engine too high. The other end could tie to the hydraulic valve handle with a spring assuming the cable is pulled back via another spring. A bicycle cable could do the job cheaply and it would be a simple solution at least to run the piston out. You would lose the speed on return unless you got a bit more ingenious with the setup, still doable.
Any pictures of the splitter you can post?
mikehaugen
Elite Member
There are limit switches that have a button instead of an arm, then the button has a little wheel on it. The are usually mounted so a cam or nub will push the button. You could put one on the side of the lever and make some sort of nub on the side of the lever. The swith would be pushed in when the lever was neutral and would extend when the lever was moved either way. Then it's just a matter of using the n.o. or n.c. contacts in the swith to activate the solenoid. I would think you would also want some kind of timer built in to keep it from activating everytime you changed directions and the lever passed the switched.
However, I am in agreement with LD1, it doesn't seem worth it unless you just want an interesting project. You are probably talking over $100 just in parts... it would take a lot of fuel savings to justify imho. If there is a time when you know you won't be using it for any length of time it is easy enough just to turn it down by hand. A few seconds here or there isn't going to do much for you. In fact the welder we have at work won't idle back down for about 45 seconds after it senses a load to keep it from constantly revving up and down.
However, I am in agreement with LD1, it doesn't seem worth it unless you just want an interesting project. You are probably talking over $100 just in parts... it would take a lot of fuel savings to justify imho. If there is a time when you know you won't be using it for any length of time it is easy enough just to turn it down by hand. A few seconds here or there isn't going to do much for you. In fact the welder we have at work won't idle back down for about 45 seconds after it senses a load to keep it from constantly revving up and down.
LD1
Epic Contributor
constantly reving up and down is probably harder on the engine than a constant speed anyway
jlgurr
Veteran Member
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That makes sense too. Rebuilding an engine detracts from the coolness factor of the auto throttle. Good point LD1.
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orangeandgreen
Gold Member
How about something as simple as a remote throttle cable hooked to the valve lever. When the lever is in the extend (down) position, it pulls the engine throttle to the "fast" position.
muddstopper
Veteran Member
Seems simple enough to accomplish. Since you only want the engine to rev up under load, I would plumb in a pressure switch in the hydraulic system. Then adjust the switch for what ever load you want to activate the throttle solenoid. I would look for a old holley carburator and rob the high idle solenoid off of it and mount on the small engine throttle cable. When the pressure is reached that the pressure switch is set at, the solenoid is activated and engine revs up. Pressure drops, solenoid is deactivated and engine idles down. Hers a picture of the carb solenoid I am referring to. https://www.google.com/search?q=thr...lenoid%2520Install%2520for%2520AC%2F;1056;792
This the pressure switch I am thinking about (but not the correct pressure rating) Square D Class 9012 Type ADW3 High Pressure Hydraulic Switch 135 1000 PSI | eBay
This the pressure switch I am thinking about (but not the correct pressure rating) Square D Class 9012 Type ADW3 High Pressure Hydraulic Switch 135 1000 PSI | eBay
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franklin2
Gold Member
For me it would be counterproductive. One of my priorities for my splitter is speed. I want it as fast as possible to get to the wood, and then retract fast so I can put another piece in place. Hooking the throttle control to the lever would be ok, since I would not be doing anything with the lever in the neutral position. But when I move the lever forward or backward, I want it to get on with it.
