Like a dream??

[firedog]

At least that's what I've been told. "Switching from stick to wire feed is like a dream" Yeah, well. a bad dream for my first attempt.
I'm no welder by any stretch of the imagination, but I can run a decent bead once I get warmed up. I bought this wire feed machine (Lincoln 140) to do some thin metal work I have coming up, but though I'd get started with some 1/8" angle. I set the wire speed & amps according to the guide, but had trememdous problems maintaining a continuous bead.
1) a lot more slag than I thought I should have
2) wire at times pushing against the work piece instead of melting
3) other times wire would "pop" and I would lose the arc
4) no difference with pre-heating metal
Using innershield 0.035 wire for mild steel.

What do I need to do?? I'm ready to go back to stick.

 

[crusty 1]

At least that's what I've been told. "Switching from stick to wire feed is like a dream" Yeah, well. a bad dream for my first attempt.
I'm no welder by any stretch of the imagination, but I can run a decent bead once I get warmed up. I bought this wire feed machine (Lincoln 140) to do some thin metal work I have coming up, but though I'd get started with some 1/8" angle. I set the wire speed & amps according to the guide, but had trememdous problems maintaining a continuous bead.
1) a lot more slag than I thought I should have
2) wire at times pushing against the work piece instead of melting
3) other times wire would "pop" and I would lose the arc
4) no difference with pre-heating metal
Using innershield 0.035 wire for mild steel.

What do I need to do?? I'm ready to go back to stick.

Are you using gas?I use my sp135 with 023 wire,I believe deeper penitration on heavier metal and still works good on the light stuff.Just repaired a hummingbird yard dodad not much heavier than foil so they do a wide range of things:thumbsupave

 

[MMagis]

I'm no expert, but I prefer to set my wire feed based on the sound/feel, not what the book suggests. Some of your issues, to me, sound wire feed related.

 

[20 20]

I switched back from wire to stick, like them both, just feel better with stick. I also weld some thin stuff with stick, it does take some getting use to though.

 

[/pine]

general comments...

some flux core wire is better than others...I have bought some off brands and had problems as described by the OP...

If using a shielding gas and working outside the wind can play havoc and make it almost impossible...

the gude's voltage and wire speed settings are good places to start for the specific sized stock but they are not written in stone...try adjusting for what you are seeing...

make sure the ground clamp is making good contact and be sure it is not getting warm

 

[jayste]

What do I need to do?? I'm ready to go back to stick.

Hold on. Give it some time. Try few things first:

1) How's the ground?
2) Since you're using flux core is the material clean?
3) When you're getting your setting info are you getting it for the right wire diameter and material thickness, gas or flux core (innershield)?
4) Are you kinking the lead too much?
5) Is the drive wheel (wire feed wheel) adjusted properly?
6) Do you have a good tip on it?
7) How far away are you holding the gun from the work surface?

All of these come into play and please don't let me insult you with any of these questions. A mig machine is a nice thing to have but like anything else if it isn't operating properly and causing you too much work and headache it's not worth it. Let us know what you find out.:thumbsup:

 

[Iplayfarmer]

At least that's what I've been told. "Switching from stick to wire feed is like a dream" Yeah, well. a bad dream for my first attempt.
I'm no welder by any stretch of the imagination, but I can run a decent bead once I get warmed up. I bought this wire feed machine (Lincoln 140) to do some thin metal work I have coming up, but though I'd get started with some 1/8" angle. I set the wire speed & amps according to the guide, but had trememdous problems maintaining a continuous bead.
1) a lot more slag than I thought I should have
2) wire at times pushing against the work piece instead of melting
3) other times wire would "pop" and I would lose the arc
4) no difference with pre-heating metal
Using innershield 0.035 wire for mild steel.

What do I need to do?? I'm ready to go back to stick.

I sold my MIG and went back to stick. I'm lazy. I don't prep my work like I should for wire feed, and I didn't spend the time to really learn MIG.

From your symptoms it sounds like the surface is not prepared well. (I've been there.) Unlike stick welding, wirefeed welders like to see clean, shiny metal. This is true of the work area and of the ground.

My dad always used to joke that the difference between a good welder and a bad welder is who knows how to use a grinder. I've since learned that's true. A good welder uses the grinder before welding. A bad welder uses it after.

 

[jayste]

A good welder uses the grinder before welding. A bad welder uses it after.

\


'Nuff said! :laughing::laughing::thumbsup:

 

[J_J]

Have you check the polarity for the wire you are using, Inside the cover, there are two leads, and I can't remember which setting is for which wire. I believe it is printed on the plate.

 

[lostcause]

i think pretty much any problem you could have has probably been covered here already, but here's a few of the things i have found that might help.

1. check the polarity as J.J. suggested. if the machine came with a regulator it was probably set for mig and not flux core.

2. my experience is that i am happier with more heat than the specs say. try starting a little higher than they suggest (unless you burn through). pick a heat and stick with it while practicing, but try varying the wire feed speed to see if you find a happy medium.

3. you need a good shiny spot to start the arc at. i find that after the arc is started, keeping the puddle slightly ahead of you will melt a small amount of rust, so it isn't totally critical that everything be perfect - but the initial start point must be.

4. holding the gun further away from the object will put more strain (heat) into the wire, and moving it closer to the object will put the heat into base metal. i actually use this as a technique to help when welding things that are borderline thin or thick for a small wire feed. if i am trying to weld something very thin with 0.035 flux core i pull the gun away more to try to avoid burning through. you will actually notice the wire turn red between the tip and the base metal when you do this. if welding very thick steel, i run the tip as close to the base metal as possible so that i can still see the puddle. this does tend to put excessive wear on tips though.

5. a cheap needle scaler will be your best friend. that tiny flux core wire can heap as much of a coating of flux on a weld bead as any stick will.

 

[4shorts]

I've got to say that IF you have a good Mig and it's set up right you'll never want to stick weld again. Some of these smaller mig outfits are notorious for wire feed problems and would wear you out trying to use them.

Tomorrow I'm heading out to do some mobile welding and it involves stick welding and I'll grumble about it the whole time I'm out doing it. I just love the Mig process and I think it's the best invention since the arrival of the wheel.

 

[yomax4]

Gasless Flux Core needs Electrode ( or Mig Gun ) Negative, Ground positive. If you set up according to the chart, you are probably too far away from the weld with the gun. Get in there 1/4" from the plate and try that. if the wire still pushes you back, Reduce wire speed or increase voltage. You will be a pro in no time..:thumbsup:

 

[gauthier]

So why are you heading out to stick it? If migs the best thing since sliced bread? They make generator mig machines.

Mig has its place,sticks got is place,tigs got its place subarc has got its place,,etc.

But stick is the simplest process going,and excepting sheet metal,will out preform mig every time as far as quality[if used by equally qualified people].,

You got to know how a mig machine works to make it work,stick you don't have to know much about the machine except turning a knob,,

Yeah,if new welder has a properly tuned mig,and he is sticking to flat fillits,it seems like mig is the only way to go,,but if that machine needs fixing or tuning,he is like thread starter,,,and if he trys something besides flat fillits,he will be in for a learning experience.

 

[TWD]

Switch to gas.

Sit down with someone who can MIG and let them give you a few pointers. Within minutes you will be a better welder.

 

[4shorts]

So why are you heading out to stick it? If migs the best thing since sliced bread? They make generator mig machines.

I never said it was the best thing since sliced bread. I happen to think sliced bread was a great invention :laughing: I'm heading out with the unit and doing stick because It's going to be a windy day for one. It's a heavy thick piece on an excavator in a very tight area. I do aluminum mig with the mobile unit but in this case stick is going to be best for the type of repair BUT I still like mig better Each process has it's place. Everyone is aloud to have a favorite process The stick process will never become obsolete in IMHO and that's why I still use it.


A few pics from the past:

 

[firedog]

Hold on. Give it some time. Try few things first:

1) How's the ground?
2) Since you're using flux core is the material clean?
3) When you're getting your setting info are you getting it for the right wire diameter and material thickness, gas or flux core (innershield)?
4) Are you kinking the lead too much?
5) Is the drive wheel (wire feed wheel) adjusted properly?
6) Do you have a good tip on it?
7) How far away are you holding the gun from the work surface?

All of these come into play and please don't let me insult you with any of these questions. A mig machine is a nice thing to have but like anything else if it isn't operating properly and causing you too much work and headache it's not worth it. Let us know what you find out.:thumbsup:

1) I assumed my ground was good, but will double check
2) used wire wheel on the work before starting
3) I think so
4) Don't believe so
5) Not sure, but it dang sure feeds the wire out when I forget to get off the trigger
6) tip was new
7) about 3/8" maybe 1/2" (since I'm used to stick, it's hard not to shove the whole thing into the work piece

No insult taken, this is all new to me.
Someone mentioned a needle scaler; definitely have to get one.
I'll have to wait a few paydays on the gas bottle.
Don't really know anyone that migs so I'm on my own for a while. I mostly taught myself to stick weld (with the help of some written instruction & photos).

Years ago, a welder told me, "if you was smart I could teach you to weld in five minutes, but your not and I don't have time" :ashamed:
Another friend stopped by when I was learning to use a cutting torch and remarked "looks like some of God's handiwork" to which I replied "you mean that piece He did out west of Flagstaff?" He said "yeah.":laughing:

 

[gauthier]

The old migs[maybe some of the newer better migs] have knobs you turn for amps and volts,,wire speed is amps on a mig,,you adjust volts say 19-20 for .035 wire,,than you adjust wire speed to get it right,,if your wire is hitting pushing metal,,than wire speed is to fast,,you either turn volts up,or wire speed down,,,,

than,,your feed rollers have to be the right ones for what your using and they have to be adjusted not to tight but not to loose,,,Your wire needs to be covered and not all dusty or rusty.

Than your gun conduit has to be clean,,and of course your gun has to be working right,,many things to fine tune and keep tuned,,,gas has to be proper cfh,,etc...

But,if you get a good 220 mig,,and you learn how it all works and adjusts,,,you can weld away with it,,have welded sch 40 pipe[4-6 inch] in fixed 6 g postion[45 degree],open root,,and had it pass bend and tensile tests,,,just ain't easy as welding a flat fillit with low volts and amps.

Mig has got to have a very clean surface[shiny],,no oil,grease or water],.

Give me a stick machine every time,if I'm wanting to weld something besides sheet metal or aluminum,,,you get a welding beginner,,they should get a dc stick welder and some 3/32 6010 rods,,

 

[Chilly807]

Contrary to opinions, wire feed is one of the easiest processes for a beginner to learn. My wife has welded a grand total of maybe 5 minutes in her life, and with a few minutes of instruction (she listens well) she can run an excellent bead with a wire-feeder.

I doubt that the original poster wanted to be told that stick was a better process, and he should use that. I think he asked for advice on how to improve his wire-feed technique.

If you're using flux core wire, polarity is electrode negative, ground positive. My Miller came set up for electrode positive, set for solid wire and shielding gas.

The proper gun angle helps a lot as well. As lost cause mentioned, if you're having trouble with too high a bead profile or wire pushing on the work, either turn up the voltage or turn down the current. It will also reduce spatter. With a wire-feeder, voltage is "heat", and current is wire speed. I've been told that an ideal situation is to put as much heat into the weld puddle as possible without burning through, to achieve the best penetration.

A 140 should have enough power to burn a hole through 1/8 steel, so as long as you're practicing, crank it up all the way, and lay down a nice slow bead. If you find you're burning holes in the workpiece, drop the heat down a notch and try again.
Take your time, allow the puddle to form, use one hand to hold the gun and the other to cradle the gun hand. A steady hand is your best friend here, if you're shaky at all you don't get the heat concentration you need. It took me a long time to slow down the bead enough to get a good weld. The toes of the weld should taper smoothly into the workpiece, if not you're too cold, too high a feed speed, or too fast. If the electrode is at the very front of the weld puddle (chasing), you won't get good results. I like to see it maybe 1/3 of the way back in the puddle.

I've not been to Lincoln's web site, but Miller has some excellent tutorials.

I make a point of writing "cheat notes" on what settings work the best for me on the inside cover of the welder, right next to the Miller chart. Quite often they're higher heat and the same speed, as lost cause mentioned.

Sean

 

[mjncad]

Thin metal frustrates me no end. For giggles, try welding 3/16" or 1/4" and see if it goes better. If so, then work down to 1/8" and below. Also, use good quality wire like Lincoln. When I ran out of Airgas' Radnor house brand wire, I got a spool of Lincoln wire and it is a pleasure to use.

And as others have said...MIG likes clean metal. Wire brush and/or grind as required to get a well prepped joint.

 

[firedog]

Contrary to opinions, wire feed is one of the easiest processes for a beginner to learn. My wife has welded a grand total of maybe 5 minutes in her life, and with a few minutes of instruction (she listens well) she can run an excellent bead with a wire-feeder.

I doubt that the original poster wanted to be told that stick was a better process, and he should use that. I think he asked for advice on how to improve his wire-feed technique.

If you're using flux core wire, polarity is electrode negative, ground positive. My Miller came set up for electrode positive, set for solid wire and shielding gas.

The proper gun angle helps a lot as well. As lost cause mentioned, if you're having trouble with too high a bead profile or wire pushing on the work, either turn up the voltage or turn down the current. It will also reduce spatter. With a wire-feeder, voltage is "heat", and current is wire speed. I've been told that an ideal situation is to put as much heat into the weld puddle as possible without burning through, to achieve the best penetration.

A 140 should have enough power to burn a hole through 1/8 steel, so as long as you're practicing, crank it up all the way, and lay down a nice slow bead. If you find you're burning holes in the workpiece, drop the heat down a notch and try again.
Take your time, allow the puddle to form, use one hand to hold the gun and the other to cradle the gun hand. A steady hand is your best friend here, if you're shaky at all you don't get the heat concentration you need. It took me a long time to slow down the bead enough to get a good weld. The toes of the weld should taper smoothly into the workpiece, if not you're too cold, too high a feed speed, or too fast. If the electrode is at the very front of the weld puddle (chasing), you won't get good results. I like to see it maybe 1/3 of the way back in the puddle.

I've not been to Lincoln's web site, but Miller has some excellent tutorials.

I make a point of writing "cheat notes" on what settings work the best for me on the inside cover of the welder, right next to the Miller chart. Quite often they're higher heat and the same speed, as lost cause mentioned.

Sean

Thanks, Sean..
I'll double check the polarity. I've always had keep a close eye on my "weld" speed as I tend to hurry it. This was my first attempt with the wire feed.
It would have been easy to crank up the DC machine, but I wanted to start practicing with the wire feed.
Hopefully I'll have some time in the next few days to give it another go. I'll play with the voltage & speed some more. I seem to remember something about gun angle, I'll have to re-read to book.