Lift or mechanic's pit for new garage?

[EscapedSuburbia]

on the cat!

I have a creeper and some ramps made from stacked 2x12s for the past 30 years. I'd like a lift in my future. Thinking about a mid-rise, similar to this...

BendPak MD-6XP Portable Mid-Rise Scissor Lift

You haven't experienced state-of-the-art portable lifting convenience until you've used the BendPak MD-6XP mid-rise scissor lift.

www.bendpak.com

I have something similar called the QuickJack that's also made by Bendpak. The difference is there are two so you put one under each side of the vehicle. They're better than a floor jack and jack stands but only barely. They're heavy and awkward to get into position, they need to be stored somewhere, and they don't lift very high. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't buy them. I'm in the process of building a pole barn with 18' walls so I'll be buying a real lift.

 

[Jaygyver]

For a 2 poster, concrete depth is only ONE thing as you also need to have the required PSI rating (strength) of the concrete required by the manufacturer also. Should be around 4000psi to 6000psi depending on the manufacturer.

There is also a couple different versions you can get, unlimited overhead but have cables you drive over (under a metal cover) and a cross over bar on top (that has the cables) between the two posts (open floor) with a stop switch connected to it.
The drawback on the plate/cable on the floor is if you roll your tool box around, only an inch or so high but rolling an 800#+ tool box over it would be a pain. I gave up rolling mine around years ago. On the overhead bar, you have an open floor but you may not be able to raise a small motorhome or similar height to the full chassis height. Just depends on your usage. Finding the lift points on a vehicle is fairly straight forward but finding the center balance is a calculated guess.

Fortunately I have a high roof. The things I looked for in the 2 poster is how high the bottom of the ARMs go and the width of the uprights. The bottom of the arms would be the lowest part of the vehicle, other than the tires, so I wanted to avoid hitting my head as much as possible. And the width was just that much more room for mirrors and getting in and out of the vehicles. The Asymmetrical ones (to me, again that's just me, as there are lots of them out there) just made me nervous on lifting anything at the upper extremes of the capacity.

I've had the Bendpac 9K# for around 15 years and it has worked for everything I've ever needed. Even used the arms as a lift to lift other non automotive items. I did buy a "stand" to use on my bugs for when I pull the motors out to counter balance it. Well, also the taller oil drain container when changing/draining oil, OMG I love that thing.
I have stored a couple of vehicles up in the air for a few months but in general try not to. Supposedly it's not suggested for long term storage on some manufacturers lifts but haven't seen it in writing myself.

As been mentioned about getting in and out of the vehicles, at least on my symmetrical one (arms are even side to side) is kind of a pain. I've gotten smarter, I get the wife to bring the car/truck in and out now.

 

[repete]

Although with a two post lift you will come to hate running boards....

 

[Shawn T. W.]

some ramps made from stacked 2x12s for the past 30 years.

So do I!

The 30-40 year old creeper didn't survive, hence the shiny new red one!

 

[dfkrug]

Why would you ever need to put a tractor on a lift?!? Sounds pretty silly considering that one can get all around a d under a tractor just as it sits .

I have split and re-attached maybe 10 tractors by now. No need for lifting or jacking inside the workshop, but it is sure nice to have a trolley/hoist to suspend and roll one of the half-tractors in assembly. It really helps with ROPS/FOPS removal and installation as well.

I never chose the pit over a lift to save money. Casting it into the floor was not easy, even if only 3' deep. The cover is 1/4" Al diamond plate, and it slides open and closed in a few seconds. Safe for walking on, too.

 

[cj7]

Although with a two post lift you will come to hate running boards....

Many two post lifts have extension pad adapters that can be easily added to gain clearance for running boards.

 

[aircommuter]

Floor drains in a pit to daylight?

Must have been built on a hill?

Yes. Actually two separate drain pipes to daylight. One for outside the block walls that were sealed and back filled with permeable material and the inside floor drains. Never any issues. Built in Felton, CA

 

[repete]

Many two post lifts have extension pad adapters that can be easily added to gain clearance for running boards.

I have 1", 3" and 6" extensions and it is still a pain at times. I find SUV's like Highlanders the worst and the odd thing is they are never used by occupants like they are used on trucks.

 

[gstrom99]

I'll just stick with my made in USA creeper!

View attachment 4418031

No creeper for me anymore. I seem to have developed vertigo a few years ago. I can't lay on my back for more than 5 minutes without getting nauseous. Under dash, under kitchen sink, or oil change. Not a good feeling. If I'm down for extended periods, at can take an hour or more to go away.

 

[dfkrug]

Yes. Actually two separate drain pipes to daylight. One for outside the block walls that were sealed and back filled with permeable material and the inside floor drains. Never any issues. Built in Felton, CA

My concrete workshop is also on sloped ground. I put a pipe underneath the floor of my pit in case there was a water problem. There never has been a water problem in 28y, so I never connected the drain. Only 10 miles from Felton. Nothing is flat around here.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Why a lift can be handy. The tech told me it was cheaper and faster to lift the cab to replace the turbo

 

[LouNY]

Why a lift can be handy. The tech told me it was cheaper and faster to lift the cab to replace the turboView attachment 4420384

It is so wrong on so many levels that routine vehicle maintenance requires a cab removal. That's even worse then pulling a pickup bed to change a fuel pump. Or here it the rust bucket NE cutting an access panel in the bed to get to it, because you know that most of the bead mount bolts will not come out.
Guess how those cab bolts will be in a couple of years.

 

[dfkrug]

It is so wrong on so many levels that routine vehicle maintenance requires a cab removal. That's even worse then pulling a pickup bed to change a fuel pump. Or here it the rust bucket NE cutting an access panel in the bed to get to it, because you know that most of the bead mount bolts will not come out.
Guess how those cab bolts will be in a couple of years.

I hear ya. Even venerable Toyota PUs had many problems with rusty frames, and not just from the Rust Belt. It may be safer to lift a truck bed off a rusty frame, vs. lifting the whole vehicle with a floor lift.

I don't have helpers, so I depend heavily on machines to make this possible. Sometimes, I use the tractor and boom pole on the loader to pull a bed or engine or FOPS or FEL, but an overhead hoist is usually better.

I do a lot of ATV work and it is really nice to lift the whole unit onto a rolling cart that limits the amount of bent-over work necessary. And they roll right over my diamond plate pit cover, no problem.

 

[cj7]

I have 1", 3" and 6" extensions and it is still a pain at times. I find SUV's like Highlanders the worst and the odd thing is they are never used by occupants like they are used on trucks.

LOL!
Yeah nothing is really a perfect set up!

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Why a lift can be handy. The tech told me it was cheaper and faster to lift the cab to replace the turboView attachment 4420384

Once you realize that at the factory they drop the cab and bee onto the rolling chassis, and there are quick connects for all the electrical pulling the cab is lots easier. Unless of course you’re a space alien, with an extra wrist located about halfway down the forearm from the elbow.

 

[404nouser]

If you want a light use pit, find a tornado shelter company many offer in floor versions that can double as a pit.
Then insurance companies think it's a shelter, and it can be used as one.

 

[Happy in NC]

If you want a light use pit, find a tornado shelter company many offer in floor versions that can double as a pit.
Then insurance companies think it's a shelter, and it can be used as one

That's the best argument for a pit I have seen

 

[LouNY]

A good pit will cost much more then a hoist, more then even two hoists.
Built much the way the Lube shop pits are. Sturdy foots and walls with a strong precast floor set on it. Lots of room well light and ventilated with an adjustable step up platform to get to the right height.