Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[doneill127]

Been doing a lot of research and Im just about to pull the trigger on a flail mower but I keep seeing one nagging item that makes me a little hesitant. I have about 1 acre of lawn, 1 acre that was tree harvested a couple years ago by the previous owner and another 5 acres of woodlands. Like to be able to keep the lawn cut, cut back the growth and try and reclaim the clear cut land and maintain trails and around a small pond. It seems that everything I've seen on the flails talks about the great cut at 2 inches and I can't for the life of me see mowing either my lawn or the field at 2 inches. Currently cut the lawn at about 4 inches with a rotary. I have a Mahindra Max with a 22hp Mitsubishi which runs at a low rpm. It's either 16 or 18 pto hp depending on what I want to believe and has a 3 pt lift capacity of 1300 lbs or 900 lbs at 24". Think I've narrowed it down to either a 54 " Woodmaxx or48/59" Caroni. Although 53" Del morino looks nice but a little pricier. So will it cut decently at 4 inches

 

[whirly]

You'll have to lower the rear roller to get it to cut that high but it should be a nicer finish than the rotary.

 

[doneill127]

Thanks for the reply. I know that almost all the flail mowers state they are adjustable upwards of +4 inches and from looking at the manuals I figured it was with a combination roller adjustment and top link adjustment. But a couple of people contributing to this thread keep bringing up the 2" cutting height almost like it's a requirement for a good cut and I guess I'm just trying to find out if Im missing something. In my world 2" would be nice on a golf course, but not for the glacier till soil that makes up my lawn.

 

[whirly]

I cut my pastures at 3-4". It's not golf course quality but my Y-blades on my Mott 72 hit rocks and roots so they are not perfect. After replacing the blades the look is very good but again not golf course good. If you are getting hammers like on my verge mower, the look will be good but not quite as good as new Y-blades.

This is my experience, others may have a different take.

 

[leonz]

Hello doneil127,

The reason I always suggest setting the flail mower at 2 inches in cutting height is because the flail mower rotor and Y or scoop type knives will create a greater pressure gradient(suction) to help lift the clippings up and over the flail mower rotor and back to the ground and if you have a flail mower rotor with the side slicer knives it will pick up the clippings and recut them to a fine mulch.

To reduce the confusion for you:


1. hammer knives are heat treated cast steel broad flail knives with a cutting edge

2. scoop knives are heat treated hardened steel knives that have been punched sheared from flat stock and punched in 2 places
for the mounting hole and then the blank is bent and pressed to form a scoop and the two side edges of the knife blank are
rolled together to make the scoop knife and then the cutting edge is ground on the knife and it is complete and ready for sale.


You can obtain a good cut with the scoop knives as long as you travel in right angles when you mow; where in you mow the entire plot either north south or east west and then travel back over the plot mowing south to north or west to east to allow the scoop or hammer knives to cut what ever is grass is left from the first pass. You have to use the full PTO engine speed to mow with scoop knives.

With side slicers you can mow in a large oval and overlap and re cut as needed and if there is a heavy amount of clippings left you can go over them a second time to re cut them and they will rot away quickly.

You have to narrow things down some more and decide what type of knife you want to use with your reclaimed plot and whether you intend to use a landscape to actually clean the top 2+ inches of soil and seed the lot before you go any further.

There are lot of very good excellent flail mower brands that you should look at as it will work on your next mule if you decide to trade up to a larger horsepower mule

If you have access to to a landscape rake it will only help you as your soil is still mowing a bit due to the lumber harvest and you will have more rocks and exposed roots next spring and summer.

If you purchase a flail mower with a dual knife mounting system you can use the scoop knives first and then switch to the side slicers when the lawn and other areas are more settled down/tamed.

With your mule you should look at a 48" unit with a side shift system ordered from the factory if you can afford it as this will let you mow close to things selectively and avoid trouble from getting hung up around a stump or tree when mowing.

Even a very small small side shifting boom mower will be of greater use as you can reclaim the lanes more easily by mowing with the flail mower in the vertical position cutting back all the brush and weed trees.

 

[Ricn]

Leonz, you are so full of info on flail mowers we are just plain lucky with your willingness in taking the time to share, I know I have learned a bunch from you, thanks!

As to my flail, last year, and after reading this thread several times over, I was poised to buy the Caroni mower only to be told the one I needed for my tractor was unavailable until later in the year so, I began looking at Woodmaxx 60 inch with side shift feature and not wanting to wait another year. Living on the Left Coast, shipping was expensive but Woodmaxx ships for free so, after several calls to Woodmaxx and, reading every review I could find I ordered the proper unit for my L2501 Kubota. The unit arrived in three weeks and soon after having it mounted and working out some issues with my top and tilt feature, mostly caused by valve body bleed off, I was finally mowing! Now, and having 40 plus hours of mowing, I can say this mower has really performed well with zero issues. Yes, 40 hrs is not much but now that I know the unit front to back and learning how to properly set up and adjust things, I feel my purchase was a good one! The few calls I made to Woodmaxx guys with questions were well received besides addressing my needs with a happy ending. There must be many good mowers out there and if taking the time to learn ones machine, read as much as possible here in TBN and carefully read and understand your manual plus using ones grease gun often, (I grease every other time I mow) success will prevail. My rotary mower is now growing grass over it! One feature I like is, how this mower cuts the smaller saplings that come up, and junk brush that keeps encroaching along the wood line in my field, something the rotary was very poor at for me.

Thanks again for all your explanations and guidance in all things about these type of mowers.

Ricn

 

[D2Cat]

I mow a pasture that I want to leave about 8" high. I made some links to connect the 3 point at the toplink. I can adjust the cutting height easily. I don't need a pretty cut, just want the tops (weeds) cut off.

 

[McCulley Heights]

I'm looking at buying a Caroni tm1900. I'll be mowing along a 1/2 mile private road with it; shoulders, ditches, and backslopes. Ditches and backslopes aren't steep, as I've been mowing them with my 42" lawn tractor, but it takes so long.

What do people keep on hand for spare parts? When I buy the mower, how many extra shackles and y blades should I buy to replace broken ones when they break.

Thanks.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'm looking at buying a Caroni tm1900. I'll be mowing along a 1/2 mile private road with it; shoulders, ditches, and backslopes. Ditches and backslopes aren't steep, as I've been mowing them with my 42" lawn tractor, but it takes so long.

What do people keep on hand for spare parts? When I buy the mower, how many extra shackles and y blades should I buy to replace broken ones when they break.

Thanks.

I didn't buy any, actually. I'm mowing a field that's mostly field grasses (as high as 2-3 feet) and some brush. I also mowed a stand of bamboo with no damage to the Y-blades or shackles. If you've been mowing with a lawn tractor, I don't think you'll need any spares...

 

[leonz]

I'm looking at buying a Caroni tm1900. I'll be mowing along a 1/2 mile private road with it; shoulders, ditches, and backslopes. Ditches and backslopes aren't steep, as I've been mowing them with my 42" lawn tractor, but it takes so long.

What do people keep on hand for spare parts? When I buy the mower, how many extra shackles and y blades should I buy to replace broken ones when they break.

Thanks.

=========================================================================================


Plan on buying at least 3 shackles and 6 knife sets(12 knives) so you have them on hand just in case as you never now what is lurking in the grass.

The V belts are generic so you can purchase them locally with no issues. I do not recall the B series number but Roy can tell you.
Just be sure to purchase the dip stick extension kit from Caroni for the gear box so you can have an accurate measurement of the oil level.


Its up to you but if you invest in a wet well grinder to sharpen your side slicers or scoop knives you will have a great cutting edge at all times.
The Micromark folks have a slow speed wet well grinder for $99.00 and the angle setter for the tool rest is about $25 from Rockler and other woodworking shops

I still have my WEN Wet well grinder that I bought 37 years ago.


If your comfortable with the ground the TM1900 will be working you will be fine but if you plan on doing extra mowing in areas with heavy brush as well think about the model with the scoop knives.