Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,021  
I'm looking at buying a Caroni tm1900. I'll be mowing along a 1/2 mile private road with it; shoulders, ditches, and backslopes. Ditches and backslopes aren't steep, as I've been mowing them with my 42" lawn tractor, but it takes so long.

What do people keep on hand for spare parts? When I buy the mower, how many extra shackles and y blades should I buy to replace broken ones when they break.

Thanks.

How often do you mow it and what height are you cutting it with the lawn tractor? If it's mowed fairly often and if you have a decent sized lawn to do also I honestly think you might be best off getting a 60" zero turn to do it all. I had a Gravely Pro Turn 160 for a while that topped out at 10mph, I would be pretty much wide open through much of my 1-1/3 acre lawn that I mow and still get a good cut. You could cover ground at least twice as fast with a zero turn as with a similar sized flail if you are mowing it often enough to keep a reasonable cut (and if the ground is reasonably smooth). If you have other areas that the flail could be used on, or don't mow it often and it gets long, then of course that would change the equation.

For spares, that largely depends on where you use the a flail. If you cut all grass areas like me I'll likely go years without needing anything, if you are in areas with branches, stumps, rocks, etc.. you'll want to keep a reasonable amount on hand.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,022  
^^^^^^

Yep, I have a Woodmaxx FM-78 coming in this week. I'll continue to mow along my drive with my JD 717A 48" zero turn. Much faster than driving and maneuvering the tractor.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,023  
I'm looking at buying a Caroni tm1900. I'll be mowing along a 1/2 mile private road with it; shoulders, ditches, and backslopes. Ditches and backslopes aren't steep, as I've been mowing them with my 42" lawn tractor, but it takes so long.

What do people keep on hand for spare parts? When I buy the mower, how many extra shackles and y blades should I buy to replace broken ones when they break.

Thanks.

I've had a Caroni TM1900 for ten seasons. My experience is more like what Leonz describes. Roy has been lucky or is just mowing a well cared for pasture I suspect. I mow in a rocky area (Rhode Island, thank you Ice Age) and I go through at least a dozen blades a season. I used to go through the Caroni supplied clevises like popsicles on a summer day but I've had much better luck with US made 3/8" clevises (that require about 5 minutes of modification with a big vise or press and a grinder to fit). Now I still lose an occasional blade (they break) but I don't lose the whole set (clevis plus two blades) that I did when using the Caroni replacement parts. I buy my spares from Flailmaster. Don't recall the product numbers but if you search this thread back a few years you'll find the specifics.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,024  
First time poster, and have been reading for almost a year and finally signed up today. I have a ck4010sehc on it's way and am replacing my old mower with a flail. I have all but decided on a Woodmax, but I don't know what size to get?

The width of the tracor is about 61" total. My total mowing is about 5 acres +/- a little. A zero turn is out because of hills mainly. I have boulders protruding from the ground that dulled old mmm blades constantly. I am torn between the 5 foot and 6 foot models. There is a bit of unevenness in the yard so going wider concerns me there. I'm not looking for a perfect cut, but don't want multiple areas looking like I missed them. Most of the area is open but a few trees to mow around and along. Smaller areas I could really jump on my old riding mower to do, but obviously would rather not.

Current mowing time with my bx 5' mmm is about 4 hours in the seat. Trimming is another hour if I do a 100% trim. Cutting down time would be great, but I don't want to sacrifice maneuverability at the same time. Side shift is a must as it is going to cut down on the trimming along pine trees that line the driveway and along the creek bank where I normally trim. So I feel like I'm shaving time in that aspect already.

I guess it comes down to...do I just get the 6 foot and hope for the best that it's not too much? I'm getting Y-blades since it is just grass and nothing more except twigs and leaves in the fall. I ask for all the knowledge of the forum, good and bad. The 2 I'm looking at are Woodmax 62 and 78, both with sideshift.

Thank you,
T
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,025  
Welcome to the forum,


Its best that you nail down exactly how much money you can afford to spend either out of pocket and or with interest as you have a lot of decisions to make and go from there before you open your wallet.

I have laid out the many things that need to be considered in the purchase of a flail mower for the members of the forum in several posts.


If you invest in a five foot cut flail mower you will have better control and more usable power when mowing and recutting high growth.

If you invest in a 4 - 5 foot boom mounted side shift flail mower you will have a more versatile flail mower that will let you mow ditches and vertically to keep weed trees and brush mowed back.

You need to think down the road a piece and see where your worst mowing is going to be and then wade through the mower types to narrow down your decision as you can purchase a smaller cut boom mounted side shifting flail mower and still do a lot of mowing safely and mow when the ground has winter killed the foliage in the late fall or early winter to stay ahead of the coming mowing season.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,026  
First time poster, and have been reading for almost a year and finally signed up today. I have a ck4010sehc on it's way and am replacing my old mower with a flail. I have all but decided on a Woodmax, but I don't know what size to get?

The width of the tracor is about 61" total. My total mowing is about 5 acres +/- a little. A zero turn is out because of hills mainly. I have boulders protruding from the ground that dulled old mmm blades constantly. I am torn between the 5 foot and 6 foot models. There is a bit of unevenness in the yard so going wider concerns me there. I'm not looking for a perfect cut, but don't want multiple areas looking like I missed them. Most of the area is open but a few trees to mow around and along. Smaller areas I could really jump on my old riding mower to do, but obviously would rather not.

Current mowing time with my bx 5' mmm is about 4 hours in the seat. Trimming is another hour if I do a 100% trim. Cutting down time would be great, but I don't want to sacrifice maneuverability at the same time. Side shift is a must as it is going to cut down on the trimming along pine trees that line the driveway and along the creek bank where I normally trim. So I feel like I'm shaving time in that aspect already.

I guess it comes down to...do I just get the 6 foot and hope for the best that it's not too much? I'm getting Y-blades since it is just grass and nothing more except twigs and leaves in the fall. I ask for all the knowledge of the forum, good and bad. The 2 I'm looking at are Woodmax 62 and 78, both with sideshift.

Thank you,
T

I'm a fan of going wide. You end up going slower, but cover acreage as fast, plus it's easier on you & the machine over less than smooth ground. Wider doesnt handle rough quite as well, but I'm not having any problems with my 7' on really rough ground. You may mow dirt rather than plants a hair more, but not much. There are distinct dirt mounds under the brush & Yucca (the nasty cactus things with spiky leaves & a 1-3" stump). I catch a bit of dirt occasionally on those.

You do sacrifice a bit of manuversbility. Obviously its wider & wont fir through narrow gaps, but it also makes turns less tight as the roller gets skidded sideways.

My Peruzzo flail is about 1,900lbs & even with 5,000lbs of tractor pulling it I can feel it. On some rougher hillsides I can see the front tires not getting traction when turning. It's not been a problem for me though. I generally mow in 2wd unless its pucker up steep. My recent job tops out at 60-75% of pucker up steep & I just make slightly wider turns & still dont bother with 4wd. I find 4wd tears up the ground more than I like, so avoid it unless its needed.

I've really been enjoying sideshift myself. I'm using it more than along fences & obstacles. Nice to stick the flail off to the side to mow some Bush without driving through it. Or set it to the far right when mowing clockwise so your tire lines up with the previous mowing line for easy tracking & minimal overlap. 20180509_185510.jpeg20180509_190637.jpeg
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,027  
Leonz,
Thank you for the information. I actually read thru probably half the whole thread over the course of half a year and got a good idea on the type. I considered the boom flail but couldn't see the extra cost benefiting myself except in a 100' section along the driveway. I'll just get my old riding mower for that. 10 minutes tops.

I don't want to say money is no object because it certainly is. I first started looking at Del Morino because I have a dealer close, but to get a 5 for with side shift was almost 4 to 5 grand. Woodmaxx is half that. And for just being a yard in the boonies, I'm ok with that... it's mowed, but not perfect look. Lol. I have noticed that you have been very knowledgeable in this thread and others so don't think I haven't taken what you suggested to mind and thought. I know how I can appear to come off.

Fallon,
Thank you as well. You saying wider doesn't handle rough as well has me thinking. My yard isn't necessarily rough, but it is kind of like rolling hills, but super close if that makes any sense what so ever.

While my mmm could follow the contour well, I was concerned about the flail touching the ground on the left side while the right may be up in the air for example. Maybe that's just 3pt adjustment? I do have a trail thru my woods I mow about once a month and maybe the 5 footer is best suited for that since some turns are tighter. I'm kinda worried about forgetting the mower is that much wider and snagging a tree worst case. Thank you both for input.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,028  
First time poster, and have been reading for almost a year and finally signed up today. I have a ck4010sehc on it's way and am replacing my old mower with a flail. I have all but decided on a Woodmax, but I don't know what size to get?

The width of the tracor is about 61" total. My total mowing is about 5 acres +/- a little. A zero turn is out because of hills mainly. I have boulders protruding from the ground that dulled old mmm blades constantly. I am torn between the 5 foot and 6 foot models. There is a bit of unevenness in the yard so going wider concerns me there. I'm not looking for a perfect cut, but don't want multiple areas looking like I missed them. Most of the area is open but a few trees to mow around and along. Smaller areas I could really jump on my old riding mower to do, but obviously would rather not.

Current mowing time with my bx 5' mmm is about 4 hours in the seat. Trimming is another hour if I do a 100% trim. Cutting down time would be great, but I don't want to sacrifice maneuverability at the same time. Side shift is a must as it is going to cut down on the trimming along pine trees that line the driveway and along the creek bank where I normally trim. So I feel like I'm shaving time in that aspect already.

I guess it comes down to...do I just get the 6 foot and hope for the best that it's not too much? I'm getting Y-blades since it is just grass and nothing more except twigs and leaves in the fall. I ask for all the knowledge of the forum, good and bad. The 2 I'm looking at are Woodmax 62 and 78, both with sideshift.

Thank you,
T

You've got plenty of PTO horsepower for either the 5' or 6' flail mowers. The wider mower will span uneven areas, but that may be acceptable...maybe not. You can try running perpendicular to the first cut...might help. There will be less spanning then with the 6' mower, but will add time to mowing the field...tough decision. The side shift may not be much...it's hard to say without seeing your field.
That said, I think I'd go with the 5' unit.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,029  
While my mmm could follow the contour well, I was concerned about the flail touching the ground on the left side while the right may be up in the air for example. Maybe that's just 3pt adjustment?
There is a adjustment left to right on the height of your lower side links.
That will let you level it and then there should be some slop in all the connections that will let the flail follow the contour of the ground to a certain extent.


Aaron Z
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,030  
RoyJackson,
This actually is my yard and not a field as it might have come off.

Aaron,
Thank you. It'll all be more clear once I actually get everything together I'm guessing.

Thank you both
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,031  
Hey Slckeys, I have been using my Caroni TM1300 for over a year, so here are my observations... I originally wanted a TM1900, but just as I was about to order I found a used TM1300 and bought it because the price was a substantial discount to the new one. I am not certain of the exact width, but it is wider than my tires at 5 ft.

My place is hilly and some of it is tight with trees and fence lines. There are a couple of areas that I mow which require a lot of tight turns. It turns out that I am very glad I found the smaller flail. I think it works better on my property. It has been reliable and I have not lost any knives so far. Last weekend I did lose my belts, so I just got some of the Gates kevlar belts delivered today!
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,032  
Deanocraft,
Thank you for the info. The 62" model seems like it is overall wider than the tractor tires, but will cut about 1 or 2 inches narrower than total width. I'm thinking I'll keep it offset mostly unless I'm going in between an area. I think I'd like the offset distance of the larger one, but I'm starting to think it's going to be too wide and annoying in certain areas and my house. Thank you for your observations.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,033  
I'm looking at buying a Caroni tm1900. I'll be mowing along a 1/2 mile private road with it; shoulders, ditches, and backslopes. Ditches and backslopes aren't steep, as I've been mowing them with my 42" lawn tractor, but it takes so long.

What do people keep on hand for spare parts? When I buy the mower, how many extra shackles and y blades should I buy to replace broken ones when they break.

Thanks.
Roy Jackson, leonz, Dan in MN, and IslandTractor thanks for replying.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,034  
My WoodMaxx FM78 shipped yesterday and I can't wait to try it out. I didn't go with the side shift. I have fences bordering my ten acres but I keep them sprayed where need be and the neighbor's hay burners eat most anything under the remaining fences. Besides, the FM-78 is offset to one side already. My only concern was loading onto my trailer. After some careful measuring and seeing how much I could swing and pin my three point arms to one side, I think I am good there.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,035  
I work for a non profit farm/orchard and was just put in charge of purchasing a tractor and implements. I know basically nothing about any of these things, 3 point hitches etc. Anyways, I got a Caroni TL 1200 flail mower with a kubota bx2680 When I moved the top link pin on the mower end from the hole to the slot, to allow for a better mow on uneven terrain, the pin slid out on the side with the cotter pin, warping the cotter pin in the process. Apart from the cottter pin, It doesnt look like anything is damaged, but Im wondering what Im doing wrong, how to avoid the pin angling and sliding out. Thanks for any help.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,036  
Apart from the cotter pin, It doesn't look like anything is damaged, but

Im wondering what Im doing wrong, how to avoid the pin angling and sliding out.

Thanks for any help.

You need to add a ,,,,,,3/4" i.d. washer to the top link pin.
you may need to add a washer to both sides of the top link pin.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,037  
Stuart, ...me too. I had a field full of 'belches' from years of using a rotary mower ...big-azz clumps of semi-cut stuff. I had to go slow, but the Caroni flail cleaned it up. Now it stays clean and the pasture looks a helluva lot better. (5ac pasture left fallow for 20+ yrs)

Jim
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,038  
Stuart, ...me too. I had a field full of 'belches' from years of using a rotary mower ...big-azz clumps of semi-cut stuff. I had to go slow, but the Caroni flail cleaned it up. Now it stays clean and the pasture looks a helluva lot better. (5ac pasture left fallow for 20+ yrs)

Jim


My mower is supposed to arrive Friday and I can't wait. If it gets in early enough, I should be able to try it out for a couple of hours. Things are really dry in my area right now. I think I will mow everything first, then use my drag harrow to help churn up any old clumps that might remain and hit it again with the flail mower. It'll be a learning curve as I have never used a flail mower. You just don't see them where I live at all. I'm also eyeing a couple of potential sites around town to bid on mowing now that I will have a flail and don't have to worry as much about flying debris.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,040  
My mower is supposed to arrive Friday and I can't wait. If it gets in early enough, I should be able to try it out for a couple of hours. Things are really dry in my area right now. I think I will mow everything first, then use my drag harrow to help churn up any old clumps that might remain and hit it again with the flail mower. It'll be a learning curve as I have never used a flail mower. You just don't see them where I live at all. I'm also eyeing a couple of potential sites around town to bid on mowing now that I will have a flail and don't have to worry as much about flying debris.


======================================================================================================================================================================


Hello Stuart,

Please do not use your drag harrow after the first mowing. The safest thing you can do with your flail mower if it has the scoop knives or side slicer knives is just mow at right angles to continue to mow the land as using the drag harrow is only going to plug it up with clippings and any existing rocks or limbs it may dig up.
 
 

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