Jack Yuan
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2013
- Messages
- 507
- Location
- Changzhou, JiangSu, China
- Tractor
- Jinma 504, Jinma 904, DF1604, YTO X1804
Well I finally have time to start getting the side shift kit onto the TM1900. The "directions" (if you can call them that) are TERRIBLE. I am trying to document the process in case anyone else can benefit from it.
View attachment 543360
To fit the side shift kit you have to take all the standard hitch equipment off.
View attachment 543351
This leaves you with the standard top link tower and lower 3pt mounts as spare parts (unless you take the slide shift kit off later).
The kit comes with it's own top link tower. It is different from the standard one
View attachment 543361
I dry-fit the side shift assembly on top. It's held on by a bolt and some wire. The cylinder mounts aren't lined up in this picture, so it won't normally be cockeyed.
View attachment 543356
View attachment 543362
One thing I didn't realize was that holes need to be drilled to mount the kit. I'm not looking forward to that. That's the next step, for another day. There are spacers that need to be inserted on the cylinder assembly, but I haven't figured out exactly how many or where. Different spacing is required for rear mount or front mount assembly, and the instructions aren't clear.
=============================================================================================Well I finally have time to start getting the side shift kit onto the TM1900. The "directions" (if you can call them that) are TERRIBLE. I am trying to document the process in case anyone else can benefit from it.
View attachment 543360
To fit the side shift kit you have to take all the standard hitch equipment off.
View attachment 543351
This leaves you with the standard top link tower and lower 3pt mounts as spare parts (unless you take the slide shift kit off later).
The kit comes with it's own top link tower. It is different from the standard one
View attachment 543361
I dry-fit the side shift assembly on top. It's held on by a bolt and some wire. The cylinder mounts aren't lined up in this picture, so it won't normally be cockeyed.
View attachment 543356
View attachment 543362
One thing I didn't realize was that holes need to be drilled to mount the kit. I'm not looking forward to that. That's the next step, for another day. There are spacers that need to be inserted on the cylinder assembly, but I haven't figured out exactly how many or where. Different spacing is required for rear mount or front mount assembly, and the instructions aren't clear.
=============================================================================================
WAIT, WAIT, WAIT, Before you start drilling anything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Please purchase an Italian to English language dictionary to do the work first !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You have to flip the side shift kit over to mount it in the 3 attachment holes that correspond with the three holes in the side shift kit on both weldments on the flail mower shroud.
I will have to get in touch with Rodney Barbour about this.




I have a question, why the cylinder is not parallel with the two track? I think this could make big noise when it is moving.
It should be parallel like this.View attachment 543410
It has been a long time since I did mine, but from memory it wasn't all THAT hard.
Accepted that the translations are rough, add some intuit and with a clear head ta dahh... all done.
One thing to watch out for when drilling the holes is that you have everything "square, level and plumb".
Initially I didn't and a slight out of squareness caused considerable binding when shifting to extreme right.
I had to "oval out" a couple of holes, assemble barely snug then shift out to allow everything to settle "where all the tolerances tolerated each other" then really tighten things up.
YMMV etc.
WAIT, WAIT, WAIT, Before you start drilling anything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Please purchase an Italian to English language dictionary to do the work first !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You have to flip the side shift kit over to mount it in the 3 attachment holes that correspond with the three holes in the side shift kit on both weldments on the flail mower shroud.
I will have to get in touch with Rodney Barbour about this.
I just spent the better of 3 hours cutting out polyester bailing twine from my Caroni flail mower. In the past I had gotten barb wire and a old bed spring caught in the flail drum rotor but this was by far the hardest to clear. There was also some wire with the twine to make it difficult to cut the twine and the twine made it near impossible to get cutters on the wire. The worst problem however was the twine was pulled into the drum collar that protects the bearings, I had to remove the collar and dig out the stretched and partially melted twine that had gotten behind the collar and locked the rotor. I mowed this area last year, an area where the commercial hay balers don't cut, without incident. Apparently the commercial guys threw the remnants of a spool of twine on the ground and my flail mower found it.



I just spent the better of 3 hours cutting out polyester bailing twine from my Caroni flail mower. In the past I had gotten barb wire and a old bed spring caught in the flail drum rotor but this was by far the hardest to clear. There was also some wire with the twine to make it difficult to cut the twine and the twine made it near impossible to get cutters on the wire. The worst problem however was the twine was pulled into the drum collar that protects the bearings, I had to remove the collar and dig out the stretched and partially melted twine that had gotten behind the collar and locked the rotor. I mowed this area last year, an area where the commercial hay balers don't cut, without incident. Apparently the commercial guys threw the remnants of a spool of twine on the ground and my flail mower found it.
Hello Mr Yuan,
Is this one of your side shift kits that you sell????
As the cylinders stroke is limited by its mounting point and stroke limiter it will travel only a short distance along the XY plane but the bronze bushings if used will be a major wear part.
Jack, yes absolutely! I had it off in my original picture and mentioned that in my post: "The cylinder mounts aren't lined up in this picture, so it won't normally be cockeyed."
When mounted it will be parallel, thank you for checking!
Thanks for the warning! I'll make sure to keep things lines up as best I can. At this point I plan to drill out the top left and bottom right holes first, then tighten them down and drill the rest.
Leonz, i couldn't pull up the first link you posted, but the second one is great, thanks! It looks like they've revised the kit since then (it's definitely different). But besides the hydraulic unit being oriented the other way, it looks like I've got it mounted correctly.
Sorry, not sure I follow. Are you saying I have the whole thing upside down, or spun 180 degrees? There are absolutely zero holes on the surface of the mower, so I can't imaging not drilling holes and getting this thing mounted.
Thank you all for the help!