LouieJunior
Platinum Member
Anybody ever use their flail mower as a cultipacker? Ihave disk harrow and planter and thought the flail roller might be an okay substitute for food plot final prep.
Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers
- Thread starter TNhobbyfarmer
- Start date
- Views: 3527040
CADplans
Elite Member
See page 4 of this article,, using a flail (with the PTO off) to compact weed control crops,,,
file:///C:/Users/john/Downloads/Reduced_tillage_and_cover_crops.pdf
Ron Morse is my neighbor, he told me how they used the un-powered flail to compact, before they developed a special attachment,,
bruceha2000
Gold Member
That link isn't going to work since it is a file on your computer.
CADplans
Elite Member
OOPs,,
I believe this is it,,,
https://attra.ncat.org/downloads/notill_veg.doc
I have found it several times over the years,, by Googling "Ron Morse flail"
Ron developed a very unique method of growing vegetables,,,
dnw64
Veteran Member
The other night, while flailing away at my grassy verge, I realized one of the reasons why I am so impressed by my mower: it doesn't sound like it's working.
You know, on a finish mower or brush hog you hear the blades cranking out. On the flail you don't hear anything. It's like it's not working, except that the grass comes out the back pulverized.
It's a psychological effect, but effective it is.
You know, on a finish mower or brush hog you hear the blades cranking out. On the flail you don't hear anything. It's like it's not working, except that the grass comes out the back pulverized.
It's a psychological effect, but effective it is.
sodamo
Super Star Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2004
- Messages
- 18,474
- Location
- Big Island, HI
- Tractor
- Bobcat CT4545 LS XR4140H (Mine) BX2380 (wife’s)
Got the hydraulic side shift kit installed on my FM155
Offset is enough to mow up to fence without catching tractor or tires, but not enough to effect balance noticeably.
Offset is enough to mow up to fence without catching tractor or tires, but not enough to effect balance noticeably.
Need help with a bearing - my old trusty Mighty Max C148 (Vrismo) from about circa 1990 lost a bearing on the side opposite the belt. From what's left, it appears to be a Fafnir 1107 RR; however I cannot seem to locate this bearing.
Couple of questions:
1.) Since the operator did not notice the bearing failure at first (shaft was sagging down), should both bearings be replaced at the same time? The other side seems tight.
2.) How are these bearings replaced? Remove the easier side, then the belt side, shift the drum to the right and left and drop it out?
Thanks in advance.
Couple of questions:
1.) Since the operator did not notice the bearing failure at first (shaft was sagging down), should both bearings be replaced at the same time? The other side seems tight.
2.) How are these bearings replaced? Remove the easier side, then the belt side, shift the drum to the right and left and drop it out?
Thanks in advance.
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Found on EBAY. FAFNIR 1107RR Single Row Ball Bearing
Also found them on Amazon.
I would replace both bearings.
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leonz
Super Member
Hello and good morning troverman,
About the flail mower rotor bearings, both bearings need to be replaced for your sanity.
Make sure the belt drive has no tension on it before you begin disassembling it and removing the set screws.
If you have a Kaman Industrial supply store nearby they can help you with the bearings and
locking collars if you need new ones. just take both of the entire bearings with you and they will be able
provide you with new ones quickly as they are an open bearing with one seal on the inside to hold the grease.
The pulley side of the flail mower rotor is the driven side and it will have a piece of keystock in a machined groove
in the shaft stub and a set screw or two to hold the driven pulley in place before it comes off.
On the opposite side the bearing should have locking collars to hold the shaft stub in place.
The Vrisimo office in California should be open by 12:00 our time to see about getting a repair manual/parts manual sent to you.
If you have a new blue tarp with no holes in it you should lay it down on the ground to catch any wayward parts.
If you have a magnetic parts catcher all the better as you can stick it to the V belt guard cover and drop the small parts into it as you work.
About the set screws and key stock, on the longer stub shaft side Vrisimo may have drilled a dimple in the key stock to give
the set screw(s) more grip. If Vrisimo did not do this you should to give the set screw(s) a better hold in the key stock metal.
Be sure to use some blue Loctite to secure the set screws by putting a couple of drops on the set screw threads before you tighten them down.
Be sure to have some hand cleaner without pumice in it handy to clean the greasy close fitting parts with to get them clean before you reassemble that beautiful flail mower.
KRR and RR indicate housed unit series with 1 7/16" shaft diameter and they are housed bearing units.
Sealed bearings-yuck I don't like that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If they still have them you will be fine as they are Timken bearings now
tired :^(
About the flail mower rotor bearings, both bearings need to be replaced for your sanity.
Make sure the belt drive has no tension on it before you begin disassembling it and removing the set screws.
If you have a Kaman Industrial supply store nearby they can help you with the bearings and
locking collars if you need new ones. just take both of the entire bearings with you and they will be able
provide you with new ones quickly as they are an open bearing with one seal on the inside to hold the grease.
The pulley side of the flail mower rotor is the driven side and it will have a piece of keystock in a machined groove
in the shaft stub and a set screw or two to hold the driven pulley in place before it comes off.
On the opposite side the bearing should have locking collars to hold the shaft stub in place.
The Vrisimo office in California should be open by 12:00 our time to see about getting a repair manual/parts manual sent to you.
If you have a new blue tarp with no holes in it you should lay it down on the ground to catch any wayward parts.
If you have a magnetic parts catcher all the better as you can stick it to the V belt guard cover and drop the small parts into it as you work.
About the set screws and key stock, on the longer stub shaft side Vrisimo may have drilled a dimple in the key stock to give
the set screw(s) more grip. If Vrisimo did not do this you should to give the set screw(s) a better hold in the key stock metal.
Be sure to use some blue Loctite to secure the set screws by putting a couple of drops on the set screw threads before you tighten them down.
Be sure to have some hand cleaner without pumice in it handy to clean the greasy close fitting parts with to get them clean before you reassemble that beautiful flail mower.
KRR and RR indicate housed unit series with 1 7/16" shaft diameter and they are housed bearing units.
Sealed bearings-yuck I don't like that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If they still have them you will be fine as they are Timken bearings now
tired :^(
Last edited:
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Good morning Flail Mower Nation,
I am having problems with the bearing clamp bolt for the main shaft on my Mott 72. It wants to loosen up and has actually fallen out once. I tried blue thread locker, but it did not work (maybe I didn't use enough). There are no unexpected vibrations at 540 operating speed. Any suggestions?
I am having problems with the bearing clamp bolt for the main shaft on my Mott 72. It wants to loosen up and has actually fallen out once. I tried blue thread locker, but it did not work (maybe I didn't use enough). There are no unexpected vibrations at 540 operating speed. Any suggestions?
leonz
Super Member
Good Morning EdwardB,
Is this on the driven side of the flail mower rotor or the drive side-V belt pulley side-Still waking up here so bear with me.
I don't have a copy of the PDF for that manual on this computer but I know that you can find it in the flail mower threads.
Tired, gggrrr.
Is this on the driven side of the flail mower rotor or the drive side-V belt pulley side-Still waking up here so bear with me.
I don't have a copy of the PDF for that manual on this computer but I know that you can find it in the flail mower threads.
Tired, gggrrr.
Thanks Leonz. That's odd...there are grease fittings on each bearing. But that is the number on the bearing that is in there, and I have faithfully greased these.
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Fallon
Super Member
They may or may not be the original bearings, depending on the age of the mower.
The replacement bearings for my old 917 from Messicks are sealed ones to replace breakable ones. Could be a supply issue for an old mower, or a design change. Sealed bearings are a lot better than they use to be. And overgreasing can blow out seals, causing worse problems. So many manufacturers are moving to sealed bearings in some cases. Lots of cheap lawnmowers are doing this on their spindles & not even removing the grease zerks. Likely a price & quality issue on some of those. But a sealed bearing is a little more expensive than an unsealed one.
Yeah, even some high quality commercial mowers (Exmark for one) are moving to non-serviceable spindle bearings, with the expectation of a very long life.
I'm not worried either way, just need to get some. Vrismo has them (I called yesterday) but they are $131.85 each. They are the entire 4-bolt flange bearing instead of just the bearings and raceways. I may check Tractor Supply or Runnings to see if they have any, although they would likely be Chinese.
I'm not worried either way, just need to get some. Vrismo has them (I called yesterday) but they are $131.85 each. They are the entire 4-bolt flange bearing instead of just the bearings and raceways. I may check Tractor Supply or Runnings to see if they have any, although they would likely be Chinese.
leonz
Super Member
Hello and good morning Troverman,
If you have a Kaman Industrial supply store nearby
they will be able to help you and they stock a lot of
bearings.
Apparently W.W. Grainger now sells directly to the public
and if they have an office near you, you can check with them
about your bearings and the prices.
The Timken Fafner flange and bearings are still made here in the USA as
far as I know.
The folks at Seal Master would or should also have an equivalent bearing and
housing as well since these bearings and housings are used in many applications.
If you have a Kaman Industrial supply store nearby
they will be able to help you and they stock a lot of
bearings.
Apparently W.W. Grainger now sells directly to the public
and if they have an office near you, you can check with them
about your bearings and the prices.
The Timken Fafner flange and bearings are still made here in the USA as
far as I know.
The folks at Seal Master would or should also have an equivalent bearing and
housing as well since these bearings and housings are used in many applications.
leonz
Super Member
Good morning EdwardB,
I think that you need to purchase a Helicoil repair kit for your flail mower rotor
replace the bad threads in the stub shaft of the flail mower rotor.
To anchor the Helicoil in the bolt hole you need a wide flat screw driver to make sure
it is bottomed in the bolt hole to make sure it is locked in place as it will make a big
snapping noise when it is secure.
After that you can use a new bolt and blue Loctite to secure it making sure you use a torque wrench
to properly torque it.
If you can purchase a fine thread helicoil to replace the bad threads please do that as the fine threaded
bolt will have more holding power and the blue Loctite will be more insurance for the work.
