Leaks are Driving me ....

   / Leaks are Driving me ....
  • Thread Starter
#21  
LD1,
You are an epic contributor.
Many Thanks, makes sense.
Edit,
Called the auto parts/ best hydraulic parts shop, no high pressure black pipe.
They suggested Lowes or Home Depot.
How do I ask for such a thing?
 
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   / Leaks are Driving me .... #22  
You need hydraulic fittings not black pipe. They're made for the pressure. Log splitters often run at higher pressures than tractors. My splitter's relief is set for 3600 psi. The fittings come in a bewildering range of types but NPT just like black pipe are common.

You probably have a hydraulics shop in your local area who can find you a fitting (especially if you bring in the old one). If not, Surpuscenter and DiscountHydraulicHose both carry hydraulic fittings.
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #23  
Most napa and oriley stores make hydraulic hoses so they would have some steel fittings and adapters.

Yea, iron fittings ARE avaliable that go up to 3000+psi, but they are huge, heavy, and expensive. Not what you want or need.

If local sources fail you, online stores like discounthydraulichose.com can hook you up.

Steel fittings will look more like that NPT to JIC 90° adapter you got connecting to that steel tube.

Assume those are 1/2" NPT fittings??? Then these two fittings would replace the black pipe I see

But go through the system. Replace any more you find on there with exeption of the suction and return. Those can be low pressure fittings.

This is the difference between just a "mechanic" working on something, or someone that actually knows about hydraulics. Because someone qualified to do the work the first time around, would have never used teflon tape and black pipe. And I'd never let that person touch another thing of mine that involved hydraulics
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #24  
black iron pipe fittings that are rated for probably 1/20th of the pressure you splitter produces
Hopefully that's just the tank line. If so, no issue with pressure really. Still, cheapo schedule 40 fittings don't shock me if they leak.
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #25  
Hopefully that's just the tank line. If so, no issue with pressure really. Still, cheapo schedule 40 fittings don't shock me if they leak.
Would be nice, but its not. ITs a work port
 
   / Leaks are Driving me ....
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Most napa and oriley stores make hydraulic hoses so they would have some steel fittings and adapters.

Yea, iron fittings ARE avaliable that go up to 3000+psi, but they are huge, heavy, and expensive. Not what you want or need.

If local sources fail you, online stores like discounthydraulichose.com can hook you up.

Steel fittings will look more like that NPT to JIC 90° adapter you got connecting to that steel tube.

Assume those are 1/2" NPT fittings??? Then these two fittings would replace the black pipe I see

But go through the system. Replace any more you find on there with exeption of the suction and return. Those can be low pressure fittings.

This is the difference between just a "mechanic" working on something, or someone that actually knows about hydraulics. Because someone qualified to do the work the first time around, would have never used teflon tape and black pipe. And I'd never let that person touch another thing of mine that involved hydraulics
Well, you were right on.
Called local hydraulic suppliers, no luck on the 45.
Discount Hydraulic Hose.com ordering was easy squeezy.
Again,
Thanks
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #27  
Have a friend with an excavator that had a real PITA leak on a fitting on the boom. His mechanic wouldn’t use tape. I looked at it and it was a tapered thread. I put teflon tape on it. The leak stopped dry. I think stopping the PITA leak on one fitting with tape is probably “OK”.

I probably should have peeled away the visible tape.
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #28  
Have a friend with an excavator that had a real PITA leak on a fitting on the boom. His mechanic wouldn’t use tape. I looked at it and it was a tapered thread. I put teflon tape on it. The leak stopped dry. I think stopping the PITA leak on one fitting with tape is probably “OK”.

I probably should have peeled away the visible tape.
Tapered threads seal by metal to metal contact which requires some deformation of the mating surfaces. Using Teflon tape can help when making up tapered thread joints because it acts as a lubricant. So as the joint is tightened and the thread deforms to make the seal the metal has a lower tendency to tear. If the metal tears then it probably won't seal.
Teflon tape is meant to be a lubricant, not a sealant. It can seal, especially against low pressure, but is really a lubricant. On the other hand, thread sealants do just that, seal. Some contain Teflon or other substances that are meant to lubricate the joint as it is being made up. But the Teflon or other lubricating substances main job is to make it easier to make up the joint, to allow the thread to deform and seal without tearing the metal.
It is all too common for tapered threads to be crummy right out of the box. Depending on the material used and the process used to make the threads torn threads happen a lot. Sometimes the tears are not readily visible to the naked eye, but still leak when subjected to pressures above a few PSI. As a machinist this really rankles me. I could use strongest words.
The upshot is to use a thread sealant whenever making up tapered thread joints that are subjected high pressures or are critical. Such as natural gas plumbing. I find it odd that the worst tapered threads I have ever seen were on black iron pipe meant for natural gas plumbing inside a building.
Eric
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #29  
Teflon tape is meant to be a lubricant, not a sealant. It can seal, especially against low pressure, but is really a lubricant. On the other hand, thread sealants do just that, seal.

Very high pressure flows teflon tape into the voids, sealing the leak path (hopefully).
It's the same goal of any thread sealant.
And it lubricates too thus the joint may be a little tighter.

Teflon tape has a significant risk of "improper application" and can cause problems by contaminating systems.

Bad tapered threads are probably from worn out thread taps & poor quality control.
 
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   / Leaks are Driving me .... #30  
Very high pressure flows teflon tape into the voids, sealing the leak path (hopefully).
It's the same goal of any thread sealant.
And it lubricates too thus the joint may be a little tighter.

Teflon tape has a significant risk of "improper application" and can cause problems by contaminating systems.

Bad tapered threads are probably from worn out thread taps & poor quality control.
Bad tapered threads are from poor quality control and from manufacturers that don't care. Tapered threads that are cut using a tap or die are subjected to very high tool pressures which can lead to torn threads. When the tap or die gets dull then tearing is even more likely. Black iron pipe is generally made of a steel alloy that is prone to tearing. Black iron pipe is also a very common pipe for gas plumbing. Go figure. And even though teflon tape may flow into voids under sufficient pressure and hence seal the joint it is not meant to seal and should not be counted on to seal. Best practice is to use the proper thread sealant. The stuff is widely available, cheap, and works very well.
Eric
P.S.
Critical tapered threads and large diameter tapered threads are mostly single point threaded or thread milled. These processes make much higher quality threads and don't require the high torque and don't generate the very high tool pressures that result from cutting tapered threads with either a tap or die. Because of the high to extremely high tool pressures that would result from using taps or dies on certain alloys such as titanium alloys or certain nickel alloys even small diameter tapered threads are usually milled or single pointed.
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #31  
Teflon tape is meant to be a lubricant, not a sealant.
Good post. While much of what you said was true, this one point is not correct. The reality is that NPT threads have a root/crest spec that is not ideal max sharp, as dictated by various standards (eg. ANSI/ASME B2.30.1), and are not just the result of worn out threading tools. Think of a properly formed thread as an equilateral trapezoid, not a triangle. The flat at the top of each male thread, and small fillet at the root of each female thread provide a spiral leak path. PTFE tape was designed to fill this spiral leak path, and is a required part of the system. The tape's lubricating function is a secondary benefit, saying it's there to lubricate and not seal is simply not correct.
 
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   / Leaks are Driving me .... #32  
Leaks in general are the bane of my equipment owning existence. One axle seal drip can be VERY costly or time consuming (or both) to fix.

This one took a long time and the seals were not cheap, either. Getting king pin out was a real joy.

1669642647388.jpeg
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #33  
PTFE tape is also ready for full pressure immediately.

I worry a little about the backstory of the ‘repair’ I did. Where the machine’s regular mechanic would not use Teflon tape. It leaked all over everything, for weeks. Operators had to add hydr oil - I saw it 5+ gallons low at one point. Then I come in (entirely different job) and not wanting to work under a leak, wrap the threads properly, the leak is stopped in 5 minutes. I am not a pro-mechanic, I’m just a guy.

I wonder if the pro mechanic told the machine owner that I have doomed his machine by using PTFE? He seems good (young fella) has a real nice service truck! And he shows up. I will ask how the (ex)leak is doing, see what the owner says.
 
   / Leaks are Driving me .... #34  
PTFE tape is also ready for full pressure immediately.
...
I wonder if the pro mechanic told the machine owner that I have doomed his machine by using PTFE? He seems good (young fella) has a real nice service truck! And he shows up. I will ask how the (ex)leak is doing, see what the owner says.
Good post. On properly formed fittings, PTFE tape is as good as any dope for most applications using quality fittings, and has the advantage of reaching full strength immediately upon assembly. While some dopes can be put to some use immediately, there are often limitations (eg. the ubiquitous Rectorseal No.5 can be put to use immediately in domestic plumbing under ~70 psi, but not in other applications).

So why has dope surpassed tape in popularity?

  1. Cheap import fittings. The aforementioned galling that occurs, either due to poor tools, poor technique, or poor materials became a real problem in the 1990's, when most fittings went from domestic manufacture to overseas manufacture. This is when pipe dope seems to have really made huge gains in popularity, as PTFE tape does require a well-formed fitting to seal. Many of these issues have been resolved, with even many import fittings having pretty good quality and fit these days, although some (eg. sweat copper NPT adapter fittings) still seal better with dope (or even dope + tape).
  2. Application of PTFE tape takes a little more skill and care than slathering dope onto a thread. This is a pretty low bar, I was taping fittings for my family's plumbing business at a very young age without trouble, but it's still an issue in the mind of many pro plumbers allowing their inexperienced assistants apply tape or dope.
 
   / Leaks are Driving me ....
  • Thread Starter
#35  
A right proper clinic on thread sealing, thanks all. Learned a lot!
The devil is in the details, however, stepping back a bit...
My main problem, black pipe used in place of high pressure fittings. No amount of dope or thread tape was going to fix that.
Thanks LD1
Unsupported valve is pretty common on a lot of log splitters and not a problem.

The bigger problem is your use of black iron pipe fittings that are rated for probably 1/20th of the pressure you splitter produces
 
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