KL120 ,joy stick problem

joe48 · Jul 19, 2006

I have had my joystick break for the 5th time.
what happens is the nylon cup/ball comes off the steel ball at the end of the cable for bucket curl. I have superglued it but it keeps coming off more often between gluings.
I ordered the repair kit from my dealer,Gary Peters ,On Site service, Middleport NY. ( He's been great even though I bought my CK20HST used elsewhere)

I remember a thread about this but haven't been able to find it. Can someone help find it for me?
Also are there any new fixes for this or suggestions on how to make improvements to make this permanent. Cause this is getting to be a real pain.

Thanks for the help, this is my first post , been lurking/reading for about 3yrs now. Great stuff and tons of help,info, etc. The Kioti site really helped me decide to buy my CK20 when I found it used with only 47 hrs. at the Mahindra dealer. I was just about to buy a Mahindra, when it came in on trade for a 45hp Mahindra, haven't been disappointed at all. Just finished loading and hauling 40 or 50 tons of brick and rubble for a friends remodel job.

Highbeam · Jul 19, 2006

So have you replaced the ball and socket 5 times or just glued it together five times? Mine broke once and my dealer replaced the ball and socket with the kit and it has been fine now at almost 300 hours.

All that effort to disassemble and then not replace the part is a bugger. The part is this little tiny box and I would bet you could buy a couple to have a spare.

wallace · Jul 19, 2006

Highbeam said:
So have you replaced the ball and socket 5 times or just glued it together five times? Mine broke once and my dealer replaced the ball and socket with the kit and it has been fine now at almost 300 hours.

All that effort to disassemble and then not replace the part is a bugger. The part is this little tiny box and I would bet you could buy a couple to have a spare.

Once you have broke it there is no way to fix the broken one right
The balls become distorted and will never hold in place.
The only real fix for this problem is to stop getting on or off the passanger side.
I have had the same customer do this 3 times.
If it ever happens to anyone else out there the kit is called a cinematic kit and the part number is 5cin305

joe48 · Jul 21, 2006

"Once you have broke it there is no way to fix the broken one right
The balls become distorted and will never hold in place.
The only real fix for this problem is to stop getting on or off the passanger side.
I have had the same customer do this 3 times.
If it ever happens to anyone else out there the kit is called a cinematic kit and the part number is 5cin305"

Thanks, Wallace and Highbeam,
I don't think in my case getting off that side had anything to do with it as I never caught anything on the lever, what I was doing when it broke first was shaking the bucket to get sticky stuff out. As you know this is a common thing to do when using any loader, whether a CUT or TLB or a big loader like a JD 644, all of which I've spent many hrs on.
I think that nylon ball/cup design is poor, because it's too easy to pop the nylon ball off. And like you said you just can't get it back on without damaging it. So I hope the kit is an improvement. And I hope the kit comes with instructions. (I do have the service shop manual)

Thanks for the tip on the kit part number ,thats what Gary Peters ordered for me.

Joe

bearhawk · Jul 22, 2006

joe48 said:
So I hope the kit is an improvement. And I hope the kit comes with instructions.

I believe the parts in the kit are the same as original equipment.

I had to replace mine. Just a rookie operator that was a little too aggressive with the joystick.

It was a challenge getting everything back together. But I didn't have a manual.

Jim

PaPaGus · Jul 22, 2006

Joe48 You stated you have a shop manual..........if you don't mind me asking where did you purchase manual.
Thanks
Bruce

joe48 · Jul 22, 2006

I just ordered it from my dealer, as I recall it was about $70. Its a pretty good manual, (much better than the old Japanese motorcycle manuals!)

Highbeam · Jul 23, 2006

Mine broke having nothing to do with which side I exited the machine. I was scooping up muddy roots and just pushed too hard on the curl I guess. Some things need to be babied more than others. The new ball and socket has lasted hundreds of hours when the first one popped pretty early on.

rback33 · Jul 24, 2006

The thing everyone needs to remember is that pushing the lever harder does NOT make the tractor/loader work harder....

Highbeam · Jul 24, 2006

Sure it does, hard right is fast dump. Easy right is slow dump. Too many bing cherries makes for a ......

joe48 · Aug 20, 2006

Here's how I installed the repair kit.

I just replaced the joystick swivel components last week at 155 hrs on a 2003 KL120. It was a p.i.t.a.
The shop service manual is worthless for this procedure and the parts kit doesn't have any instructions with it. KIOTI ARE YOU LISTENING?
You have to diassemble the whole joystick from the fender down to the cable connections at the valve block. You cannot unbolt the swivel ball from the cable at the joy stick end. It must be done from the valve end. Then you can retract the cable enough to access the ball lock nuts to undo them.
Besure to note how much thread is showing on the large cable lock nuts on BOTH ENDS. You will need to get the thread close to these measurements as possible to make proper adjustment easier. The final adjustment has to be done at the valve block end by screwing the outer cover (the grey metal diecast outer cover)(also besure that the orings are in their proper place in the cover to seal against the valve body) in or out then locking the large cable locknut.
I found the best way to adjust the swivel and cable was to turn the cover in or out until the joystick locking lever slips into place easily.
I feel the nylon ball cover over the swivel balls is either a poor design or a bad batch of plastic. Since this problem appears to occur on machines from several model years ,one would assume that it is a poor design issue.
Also the cost of the kit is a little steep at about $75.00 , and if you're out of warranty and have to pay for labor it will take an hour or two depending on if the tech has done this before.
Good Luck.