Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket!

[DennisFolsom]

By my thread title, many of you can probably guess what happened to me today.

My left front tire may have been a little low on pressure to start with. There was a small corner hanging out from the left side of the gravel pile, so I decided to turn while filling the bucket (bad idea:thumbdown. As I was pushing with the rears, had the front wheels turned a bit too much, and curling the bucket up, the left front tire came unstuck! The beads came off their seats on the rim. The tire was flat, but still on the rim.

I dumped the bucket, and used down pressure to lift the front end. Fortunately, I was close enough to the garage that my extra 50' air hose got to where I needed it. Having had a bit of prior experience mounting tires, I knew I needed a bead expander. I used a ratchet strap around the center of the tire. I had to tighten the strap quite a lot to get that R4 to push out to the sides of the rim. I also used a hammer, pounding in the center of the tread, to help force the sides out.

These days, the only air compressor I have on hand is one that was designed to run a couple of nail guns. It's a bit wimpy in the CFM department for seating an R4 front tire. It was a struggle, but I made it.

Checking my tractor manual, they only call for 12 PSI on the fronts. Actually, I should have looked at the loader manual. It seems like there was something about running more pressure there. My tire says "45 PSI max" on it. The other front tire had 17 in it. I decided to try 20 PSI on both sides for now.

This fracas was mid-afternoon today. The tire is still looking good tonight. I'll check it with a gauge in the morning.

From now on, I intend to keep the front wheels straight ahead when pushing into the gravel pile!

I think a new air compressor just moved up a couple of notches on my "want to buy" list. When I moved a while ago, I parted with my big old shop compressor. I have some air tools that my nailer compressor just won't run. It's time for a compressor. Now the question is how much to I want to pay, and how big a unit will I go for.

 

[vic4news]

Checking my tractor manual, they only call for 12 PSI on the fronts. Actually, I should have looked at the loader manual. It seems like there was something about running more pressure there. My tire says "45 PSI max" on it. The other front tire had 17 in it. I decided to try 20 PSI on both sides for now.

I hate mistakes that cause me extra work, but at least you were able to mount the tire yourself.

You definitely want to run more pressure when doing loader work.

Vic

 

[Gary Fowler]

My factory filled front tires (havent checked the pressure) are so hard that with a full bucket of rock and the tire on hard ground, it feels like you are on a tracked vehicle as you can feel every tread bar when it hits the ground, but they show just a little bulging when heavily loaded. You need them tight when using a loader and turning otherwise you could rip them off the rim. Same thing with zero turn lawnmowers, those front tires have to be aired up to the max if you want to keep them on the rim. Dont ask me how I know this, but I have the battle scars from wrestling with a rachet strap trying to reseat the bead on one.

 

[texasjohn]

you need pressure very near max allowed

 

[jenkinsph]

Dennis,
I don't think turning the tires while loading the bucket should be a problem for you. Just keep the tires aired up correctly and you should be fine. 12 psi on the fronts with a loader is boarder line flat imo, consider 20 to 35 psi.

 

[TripleR]

While I accept the advice is good, I routinely turn my wheels when loading the bucket or pushing and haven't rolled a tire yet; proper inflation is a must.

 

[bake321]

TripleR
You may want to run a weld bead along the brackets that are used to bolt the wheel centers to the rim. The rivets on both of my fronts developed leaks. I pulled the tires off of the rims and attemped to weld the leaks so that I could keep the benefit of tubless tires. Got most off the leaks stopped, but finally tubed them. Most other brands that I have looked at are welded.

Cary

 

[RoyJackson]

I think a new air compressor just moved up a couple of notches on my "want to buy" list. When I moved a while ago, I parted with my big old shop compressor. I have some air tools that my nailer compressor just won't run. It's time for a compressor. Now the question is how much to I want to pay, and how big a unit will I go for.

I haven't rolled a tire off the bead but I came real close with my old 670 when hauling a heavy weight hanging from the bucket. It was a very close call!!
As far as how much to pay and how big...you'll want 30-40 CFM (minimum) to run air tools efficiently. As far as cost, if your use is just the occasional job (airing tires, removing a wheel...things like that) get an oil-less compressor. They're cheaper, louder and work fine (I have one I bought at Sears many years ago) for those occasional jobs.
But the oil-less type won't hold up for constant use...
BTW, don't forget to oil those air tools before you use 'em.

 

[TripleR]

TripleR
You may want to run a weld bead along the brackets that are used to bolt the wheel centers to the rim. The rivets on both of my fronts developed leaks. I pulled the tires off of the rims and attemped to weld the leaks so that I could keep the benefit of tubless tires. Got most off the leaks stopped, but finally tubed them. Most other brands that I have looked at are welded.

Cary

Thanks, I will take a look at them; never paid much attention to them. My sons are pretty good welders as is my brother. I sure hope I can stay tubeless.

 

[k0ua]

I turn all the time while loading, just like you tried to do to cut off an edge of a pile to load only one side of a bucket. I run 30 lbs the recommended pressure in my front tires when you have a loader. Never have had a problem.

James K0UA

 

[5030]

While I accept the advice is good, I routinely turn my wheels when loading the bucket or pushing and haven't rolled a tire yet; proper inflation is a must.

Same here, but then I keep my tires at 30 PSI, actually all my Ag related tires, which is the benchmark recommended inflation pressure in the first place.

I'd never have any tire (except a flotation tire or ATV tire) below 30 psi on any equipment.

,,,of course checking tire pressure is optional for quite a few operators as well as cage drivers. I've followed many a car down the road with badly bulging sidewalls, indicative of underinflated tires.

...duh, my car gets bad fuel mileage and handles like crap.....

Check the tire pressure dude....:laughing:

 

[bigtiller]

I haven't rolled a tire off the bead but I came real close with my old 670 when hauling a heavy weight hanging from the bucket. It was a very close call!!
As far as how much to pay and how big...you'll want 30-40 CFM (minimum) to run air tools efficiently. As far as cost, if your use is just the occasional job (airing tires, removing a wheel...things like that) get an oil-less compressor. They're cheaper, louder and work fine (I have one I bought at Sears many years ago) for those occasional jobs.
But the oil-less type won't hold up for constant use...
BTW, don't forget to oil those air tools before you use 'em.

Roy usually gives great advise but I think this may be a type-o. 30-40 CFM seams a little high to me.

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy usually gives great advise but I think this may be a type-o. 30-40 CFM seams a little high to me.

I believe you're correct...not a typo, just a poor memory.
15-18 CFM is more like it.
That 30-40 figure would be a minimum tank capacity in gallons.

Good catch, Bigtiller!!!

 

[two_bit_score]

Rol-Air GD4000PV5H 4 HP, 4.4 CFM, 4.5 Gal Compressor

 

[two_bit_score]

Rolair FC250090L - ROLAIR 2.5-HP 24-Gallon Contractor Portable Air Compressor

 

[IndyIan]

While I accept the advice is good, I routinely turn my wheels when loading the bucket or pushing and haven't rolled a tire yet; proper inflation is a must.

Isn't that a no no in terms of tweaking your loader? same as turning while back dragging? I think that what it says in my manual anyways.

 

[5030]

Isn't that a no no in terms of tweaking your loader? same as turning while back dragging? I think that what it says in my manual anyways.

Must have a weak loader structurally. I always 'walk' my bucket into hard packed material with the front wheels in 4wd.

That's pretty much SOP around here.

 

[5030]

I believe you're correct...not a typo, just a poor memory.
15-18 CFM is more like it.
That 30-40 figure would be a minimum tank capacity in gallons.

Good catch, Bigtiller!!!

Sure about that????

It takes a pretty large unit to maintain 15-18 CFM at a reasonable pressure.

Around a 10 horsepower 220/1/3 compressor motor and a nice 2 stage multi cylinder intercooled and after cooled compressor or a rotary screw.

I have a 7.5 horsepower Quincy pressure lubed compressor on a 125 gallon receiver that might make 15 on a real good day.

 

[RoyJackson]

Sure about that????

It takes a pretty large unit to maintain 15-18 CFM at a reasonable pressure.

Around a 10 horsepower 220/1/3 compressor motor and a nice 2 stage multi cylinder intercooled and after cooled compressor or a rotary screw.

I have a 7.5 horsepower Quincy pressure lubed compressor on a 125 gallon receiver that might make 15 on a real good day.

Nope....not sure at all!!
Seriously, I just pulled out my manual (instead of relying on my memory)...my unit puts out 6 SCFM at 90 PSI.

I do apologize for the errors in those two responses, gents and ladies...

 

[5030]

Roy...

No problem.

Let me throw another herring in the stew...

Most 5 horsepower rated compressors really aren't 5 horsepower, but more like 3 actual horsepower, especially 110 volt portable models.

Compressor manufacturers play the same game that gas engine manufacturers like Briggs and Stratton, Kawasaki and Kohler used to play before consumer groups got wise and put a stop to power claims.

A true 5 horsepower electric motor will pull (running) around 22 amps on 220/1. A quick look at the rating plate (on the motor) dispells all lies....

Beacuse most residential branch circuits are fused at 15 amps, those circuits are incapable of handling a 5 horsepower motor and can only marginally handle a 3 horse motor.

The 7.5 Leeson on my quincy pulls 27 running and over 80 amps starting on 220/1