JD 4700 More problems

[Kevin H]

Hi Everyone

I posted about a 4700 I was getting with an hydraulic leak coming from the bell house a while ago, That is now the least of my worries.

I went to go it today and drive it home which is about 15 miles. I had it in C range (its a hdyro Trans) and when I push the pedal all the way down gradually at the 3/4 make it bogged down blew black smoke and when trying to go up a slight incline it got worse. The engine temperature sky rocketed to the point it was in the red and I had to shut it down. I had already turned around and was almost back to the farm. I limped it in and shut it off. I only went about half a mile before I turned around never getting it up to road speed.

I know it has been well maintained and hydr oil changed not long ago.

Any idea of what this could?

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Kevin

 

[beenthere]

and when I push the pedal all the way down gradually at the 3/4 make it bogged down blew black smoke and when trying to go up a slight incline it got worse.

Sounds like you have the wrong idea about how the HST works.. pushing on that pedal is not like stepping on the gas accelerator of a car or truck.. it is essentially the same as shifting into a higher gear.
Back off on that forward pedal to maintain rpm of your engine. That is equivalent to shifting into a lower gear.. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Kevin H]

Thank you, It does sound like I haven't a clue how a E- Hydrostatic transmission works.

I understand how the E hydro work. Pushing the pedal you are operating a variable resistor to control the electronics that then operates the transmission, changes the angle of the swash plate on the pump increasing or deceasing hydr oil flow to the drive motor, It is a closed centre system. I have owned a 4410 E hyd for years and have roaded it a lot, never had this problem and it has never overheated. If I was careless with the pedal on a grad/under load it would just bog down until I backed off.

As stated I "gradually" pushed the pedal down and I did back off several times, RPM went back up but I just would not go with any load/incline. Black smoke out the exhaust and engine over heated instantly.

I know that the hydr filter and screen is clean, hyd oil level is where it should be. Could there be a restriction somewhere else in the system? Electronic problem with resistor? Engine performance/power issue. Fuel filter was just changed.

When this happened it dawned on me that there was a similar problem last fall when I was pulling a wagon load of straw with it up a field with a grad in B range but not as bad.

Any idea of what this could be would be appreciated.

 

[dodge man]

Check radiator make sure it’s clean, air filter, fuel filter, fan belt, is the antifreeze old? Check the easy stuff first. You probably need to shift to a lower range going up a big hill but that doesn’t explain the overheating.

 

[waycoolmarine]

those older series tractors have common issues of brakes stinking the shafts bind up where it goes into the case spray where shafts go into rear end and work back and forth

 

[Kevin H]

Hi All

I ran it with the 2 air filters out of it. I did the same thing but no black smoke and did not heat up as quick.

Waycoolmatine, can you please explain the shafts problem a little better and best way to free them up? If I jack it up in neutral should both wheels turn freely, not really sure. It does seem to be labouring and what you posted seems like a possablity. If you could explain it and the easiest way to diagnos/fix it, it would be much appreciated.

Thank you

 

[jd110]

I was also thinking brakes dragging for the bogging down problem, but shouldn't cause engine overheating, at least not that quickly. If wheels are turning freely by hand when jacked up, that should mean brakes are not dragging. Did you check it after driving or before? Sometimes if brake drag is slight when cold, it will get worse when brake parts warm up and expand. Check by following brake linkage back to where they attach to lever on axle housing. There should be a spring on that lever to help retract. Disconnect the linkage and see if lever in axle housings are free to move by hand. If they are, you should be fine unless brake adjustment is too tight. If lever is tight to turn, spray the shaft with penetrating oil and keep working it back and forth with vice grips or even tapping back and forth with a hammer until it moves freely. Lots of patience and lots of penetrating oil is usually needed. Low power can also be caused by restricted fuel flow in tank or a pinched hose as well as a clogged filter. I am afraid the overheating is a separate issue. As mentioned before, make sure radiator is clean and there is good airflow through it all the way across. Probably should change the thermostat and check water pump. If cooling system checks ok, could be bad head gasket, cracked head or block. Watch bottom radiator hose when running engine wide open to be sure it doesn't suck shut.

 

[kthompson]

Kevin, based upon the fact with air filters removed it did not heat up as bad, check for air restriction in the air intake system. Mouse or wasp nest. Could you have bad fuel?

 

[Industrial Toys]

Not sure why so many people are obsessed with replacing thermostats. If the Rad is warm, your thermostat is at least open.

Had some major overheating issues and black smoke under load with my Kubota Loader.

Radiator was filthy, and aircleaner cartridge likewise. Runs cool as a cucumber now in these 30 plus degree C days.