Inverter for truck

[Gary Fowler]

I'm looking at installing an inverter to my truck to power a twin tank air compressor. Talked to the inverter dealer today and he recommended this unit to run the 14amp Dewalt compressor I have for the truck. 5000 Watt Power Inverter 12 volt DC by AIMS while reading up on it I started wondering if I could hook up a plug to it and run my 30amp camper off this. They say you can, even have a cord available to attach whatever end you need to that can take up your 48 amps. I'm basically thinking turn my truck into a generator for farm use as well as the occasional time I need to plug the camper in while not having electric connections at certain campsites. Does anyone see anything wrong with this idea or potential problems? The compressor and inverter would be mounted in the bed of the truck protected by a cap. I'm going to mount the inverter under the toolbox that is built into the cap so it is protected from being hit by anything slid into the bed. Truck is a 2006 F-350 diesel.

I know that they make a device that takes the AC current directly off the alternator to use to power AC tools. Why not just get a larger alternator and install one of these devices so you can directly plug in your compressor.

 

[Xfaxman]

None, of us really know.. It started a few years ago, from a software upgrade on the forum software, and it has been with us ever since.. You can delete the extra posts, and I usually do, but nothing I know we can do to stop it.

Use the "Advanced" mode: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/news-feedback/349161-double-postings-post4315369.html#post4315369

 

[k0ua]

Use the "Advanced" mode: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/news-feedback/349161-double-postings-post4315369.html#post4315369

OK.. I will try that if I can remember to do it each time.. Just need to get in the habit of "double tapping".

 

[DFB]

I know that they make a device that takes the AC current directly off the alternator to use to power AC tools. Why not just get a larger alternator and install one of these devices so you can directly plug in your compressor.

I am not at all familiar with such devices but that sounds so practical...if not too simple a solution.

A quick internet search for me turned up a couple of videos where some had jury rigged such a hookup to apply the concept.

Do certain companies manufacture and/or market these? Max amp load ratings?
How does the cost of doing something like this (beyond buying an HD alternator) compare to the other previously suggested and explained options of dc/ac power inversion, or using low amp draw tools or buying a stand alone separate fuel powered, engine run generator. :confused3:

It sounds great to have a continuous use 120vac outlet hard wired into a truck bed or on a tractor and always ready, working off just a running vehicle engine without compromising the battery/start system.

 

[buickanddeere]

I am not at all familiar with such devices but that sounds so practical...if not too simple a solution.

A quick internet search for me turned up a couple of videos where some had jury rigged such a hookup to apply the concept.

Do certain companies manufacture and/or market these? Max amp load ratings?
How does the cost of doing something like this (beyond buying an HD alternator) compare to the other previously suggested and explained options of dc/ac power inversion, or using low amp draw tools or buying a stand alone separate fuel powered, engine run generator. :confused3:

It sounds great to have a continuous use 120vac outlet hard wired into a truck bed or on a tractor and always ready, working off just a running vehicle engine without compromising the battery/start system.

Cost, weight , size/room and maintenance. A 2000W 120V continuous capacity inverter tied to a vehicle's or maxhine's battery. To occasionaly operate a skill saw, work lights and battery chargers is about all that is practical.
Anything more. Purchase a real 120/240V generator .

 

[buickanddeere]

I am not at all familiar with such devices but that sounds so practical...if not too simple a solution.

A quick internet search for me turned up a couple of videos where some had jury rigged such a hookup to apply the concept.

Do certain companies manufacture and/or market these? Max amp load ratings?
How does the cost of doing something like this (beyond buying an HD alternator) compare to the other previously suggested and explained options of dc/ac power inversion, or using low amp draw tools or buying a stand alone separate fuel powered, engine run generator. :confused3:

It sounds great to have a continuous use 120vac outlet hard wired into a truck bed or on a tractor and always ready, working off just a running vehicle engine without compromising the battery/start system.

Cost, weight , size/room and maintenance. A 2000W 120V continuous capacity inverter tied to a vehicle's or maxhine's battery. To occasionaly operate a skill saw, work lights and battery chargers is about all that is practical.
Anything more. Purchase a real 120/240V generator .

 

[ultrarunner]

Pretty much as I have been using mine for the last 25 years...

I do a lot of repairs and the benefit of being able to cut a few plywood panels, run my roto-hammer, set up extra lights and run my Emglo compressor made it worthwhile... the compressor takes the most and unless and repeated cycling is problematic unless the truck motor is running... it will quickly trip the inverter after a few starts without the engine alternator feeding power... still, great to have a source of air for the tractors and trailers...

It really shines running my commercial Spartan 300 cable machine... never know where the clean out will be and having power and a retractable trouble light with outlet works well.

Anything more than a couple of sheets of plywood I break out the Honda Generator... I can also have a fuel line to refill it from the 34 gallon truck tank...

Don't know if I mentioned it... I did add a second battery with an RV isolator and an extra continuous rated solenoid... also works good should the crank battery be weak... just push the toggle switch and I can "Jump" from the cab...

 

[Deere Dude]

I've been wondering about the Champions, my biggest concern is noise, it needs to be extremely quiet for when needed at campgrounds. I will start doing more research on them as their much better priced than the Honda and Yamaha units. Thanks

I bought a John Deere 2300 generator many years ago for camping and general use. I stored it in the box in my truck with my battery charger and took it wherever I went, just in case. Even though it was easy starting I needed it on one cold Wisconsin winter day and I could hardly pull it over. It wouldn't start. Plan A didn't work.

I figured I would use it to run my 15 amp compressor. My wife had a flat 50 miles away so I loaded up my Sears 1HP compressor and my generator and off I went. I got there and fired up the generator and flipped the compressor switch on and the compressor just groaned. It wouldn't begin to start. To many starting amps needed. So I changed the tire. I should have tested it first.

I figured okay, it is a nice quiet generator so I will take it camping to run in the State Park campgrounds. I fired it up one night after the sun went down and you wouldn't believe how noisy that was in relation to the quietness of the campground. My next plan was to run it inside a small closed in trailer I took along for my motorcycle. It had plywood sides and canvas top for noise reduction. After a half hour I shut it down before a ranger came and ripped my throat out. It was just to noisy and inconsiderate. If your campgrounds have a quiet time I would reconsider that idea.

But, I have seen some small 900-1000 watt generator are whisper quiet and I would try them in a campground, but no guarantees they would work for your needs or in your campground. They would be kind of useless for any compressor to speak of.

 

[DFB]

Air compressors , table saws, contractor grade circular saws, all seriously high amp draw items. My Makita 5007NB circular is 13 amps. If remember right the old beater Black Decker saw down at work and an old craftsman I once had are much less.

Electric Drills can vary a real lot. My Makita 3/8 VSR drill is only a 2.7 amp draw tool but the drywall screw gun, 9/16 hammer drill, and 1/2 drill draw up to 5.2amp each. Some heavy duty drills even more.

The Milwaukee battery charger is 2.1 amps the old Makita says 1.6. A while back I experimented running one, then both together for charging with my little 400 amp inverter while monitoring the voltage output and battery power/ duration with the engine running and engine shut off. Interesting results to say the least.


I'm a big cordless tool fan and I barely ever use extension cords anymore or even plug in lights or my radio either if I don't have to.

I hate paying an electric bill

Most high quality battery tools will perform as well as corded without the hassle of figuring out power. But not everything can be cordless at least not yet.

Nothing really beats having a decent generator for certain remote powered circumstances.

And I still own many feet of extension cords, droplights and air hoses :confused2:

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I bought a John Deere 2300 generator many years ago for camping and general use. I stored it in the box in my truck with my battery charger and took it wherever I went, just in case. Even though it was easy starting I needed it on one cold Wisconsin winter day and I could hardly pull it over. It wouldn't start. Plan A didn't work.

I figured I would use it to run my 15 amp compressor. My wife had a flat 50 miles away so I loaded up my Sears 1HP compressor and my generator and off I went. I got there and fired up the generator and flipped the compressor switch on and the compressor just groaned. It wouldn't begin to start. To many starting amps needed. So I changed the tire. I should have tested it first.

I figured okay, it is a nice quiet generator so I will take it camping to run in the State Park campgrounds. I fired it up one night after the sun went down and you wouldn't believe how noisy that was in relation to the quietness of the campground. My next plan was to run it inside a small closed in trailer I took along for my motorcycle. It had plywood sides and canvas top for noise reduction. After a half hour I shut it down before a ranger came and ripped my throat out. It was just to noisy and inconsiderate. If your campgrounds have a quiet time I would reconsider that idea.

But, I have seen some small 900-1000 watt generator are whisper quiet and I would try them in a campground, but no guarantees they would work for your needs or in your campground. They would be kind of useless for any compressor to speak of.

We have hooked into my friends Yamaha generator before and you literally need to be standing next to it to hear it. I forget the size but it is big enough to run his fifth wheel completely (50 amp) plus give us enough to keep the batteries topped off and run the toaster and microwave (just not the ac). That is what I would like to get but it was around $7k so it is on the list just not top priority yet.

My other generator is so loud I hate using it at all. I've even bought solar panels to use at the state parks just so I don't have to try and use it because it is too loud. Also it needs to be perfectly level or else it won't stay running. I don't even like using it around the farm as you can't talk to anyone while it's running.

 

[ultrarunner]

Air compressors , table saws, contractor grade circular saws, all seriously high amp draw items. My Makita 5007NB circular is 13 amps. If remember right the old beater Black Decker saw down at work and an old craftsman I once had are much less.

Electric Drills can vary a real lot. My Makita 3/8 VSR drill is only a 2.7 amp draw tool but the drywall screw gun, 9/16 hammer drill, and 1/2 drill draw up to 5.2amp each. Some heavy duty drills even more.

The Milwaukee battery charger is 2.1 amps the old Makita says 1.6. A while back I experimented running one, then both together for charging with my little 400 amp inverter while monitoring the voltage output and battery power/ duration with the engine running and engine shut off. Interesting results to say the least.


I'm a big cordless tool fan and I barely ever use extension cords anymore or even plug in lights or my radio either if I don't have to.

I hate paying an electric bill

Most high quality battery tools will perform as well as corded without the hassle of figuring out power. But not everything can be cordless at least not yet.

Nothing really beats having a decent generator for certain remote powered circumstances.

And I still own many feet of extension cords, droplights and air hoses :confused2:

Cordless was just starting back in the late 80's... I still have the Makita set I bought in 1982... still work too... everything was 7.2 volt and I had a saw, drills, several flashlights and a 12 volt car charger that is still mounted in my van...

 

[Xfaxman]

Eleven years ago, before I had cordless tools, I used an inverter to run a reciprocating saw from the TORO Traction Unit.

Six months later I put the loader on it.

 

[dieselcrawler]

First cordless drill I used was 7.2 volt... was about 1992, belonged to a friend of my dad's. We ended up buying a set shortly after, but it was the latest and greatest, the 9.6 volt version!

 

[DFB]

I just decided to put my 7.2 Makita out in the trash this week while cleaning up my shop. Battery begins to smoke when you plug in the charger. These types are soldered and not removable. I don't even know if you can still get the batteries. Those already were replacements too after the originals failed to hold a charge. Was a favorite drill of mine for many years

 

[ultrarunner]

TBN suggested Batteries Plus for rebuilds and I had some done there this summer... so far so good.

The local Batteries Plus was at least 50% higher than the one near my brother... same specs... so I dropped them off there.

In all the years I have owned it I only charged when fully dead... I would run the down the battery with a tool or flashlight and was still using batteries that were 15 years old... again... never charged unless I ran it to dead.

I did all the sheetrock in my first house with the 7.2 plus lots of other tasks...

At work I picked up a Dewalt 12v Drill which has also been good and it now lives in Washington...

My go to drill around the house is my 12v Bosch with 15 minute charger.

 

[Soundguy]

Your welcome.

I think it is an editor plug in issue...

 

[Soundguy]

honda makes bridgeable ( connect 2 units with special cable ) whisper quiet generators for this.

I bought a John Deere 2300 generator many years ago for camping and general use. I stored it in the box in my truck with my battery charger and took it wherever I went, just in case. Even though it was easy starting I needed it on one cold Wisconsin winter day and I could hardly pull it over. It wouldn't start. Plan A didn't work.

I figured I would use it to run my 15 amp compressor. My wife had a flat 50 miles away so I loaded up my Sears 1HP compressor and my generator and off I went. I got there and fired up the generator and flipped the compressor switch on and the compressor just groaned. It wouldn't begin to start. To many starting amps needed. So I changed the tire. I should have tested it first.

I figured okay, it is a nice quiet generator so I will take it camping to run in the State Park campgrounds. I fired it up one night after the sun went down and you wouldn't believe how noisy that was in relation to the quietness of the campground. My next plan was to run it inside a small closed in trailer I took along for my motorcycle. It had plywood sides and canvas top for noise reduction. After a half hour I shut it down before a ranger came and ripped my throat out. It was just to noisy and inconsiderate. If your campgrounds have a quiet time I would reconsider that idea.

But, I have seen some small 900-1000 watt generator are whisper quiet and I would try them in a campground, but no guarantees they would work for your needs or in your campground. They would be kind of useless for any compressor to speak of.

 

[DFB]

I really do hate throwing a fairly decent power tool out but its been stored in a cabinet for quite a while now as it was. I could investigate some batteries before I let it go (and I could easily solder them in myself too). Earlier I had it apart to determine if it was battery or charger that was malfunctioning and I hooked up a different plug in charger still one battery smoked.

Trouble is like most things in today's throw away world you can get the latest technology for not much more. 12v, keyless chuck, 2 speed gearbox, multi setting screw driving clutch, twin batteries, case, charger etc. and maybe that even includes a free additional tool for about $100 or less.

I think I paid $59 plus tax on sale for that drill way back in the 80's.

The old drill ran at 0-600rpm

My apologies here for thread jacking

 

[Chaffinyo]

Have you thought of a belt driven air compressor? I would think that you could find one that would fit on your 6.0

 

[Soundguy]

I just decided to put my 7.2 Makita out in the trash this week while cleaning up my shop. Battery begins to smoke when you plug in the charger. These types are soldered and not removable. I don't even know if you can still get the batteries. Those already were replacements too after the originals failed to hold a charge. Was a favorite drill of mine for many years

View attachment 451288

Soldered and not removeable? Please.. and the earth is flat and the sun revolves around the earth..

rechargeable nicad, nimh an LI batteries are readily available, including sub-class size batteries.