Help with choosing new rider mower

[JasperFrank]

The top-end XT2 has a differential lock, and sometimes I wonder if that's where I should have gone, lol.

I should have gone there also. I've had to pull the garden tractor out, out of stuck, with the other 4wd Ford 1220 tractor, too many times. If the cadet had lock, I would not have had to do this.

 

[WinterDeere]

Most years I have to tweak the linkage on the GX to get it perfect.

The linkage on the 757 Ztrak never budges. I remember setting it when I first got the gauge back around 2011 or 2012, and it hasn't budged since then. I thought I'd have to re-adjust when I removed and rebuilt the deck two winters ago, but after re-hanging I found it landed right back in its original spot. Makes sense, as connection points are four 5/16" chains and two drag links.

 

[SARG]

I'll just mention ... It will be a sad day when the Husky 2354 finally wears out.

 

[tacticalturnip]

I'll just mention ... It will be a sad day when the Husky 2354 finally wears out.

View attachment 3686448

Since Husqvarna definitely doesn't make them like they used to, certainly not where the frame is concerned, that really will be a sad day.

 

[tacticalturnip]

I should have gone there also. I've had to pull the garden tractor out, out of stuck, with the other 4wd Ford 1220 tractor, too many times. If the cadet had lock, I would not have had to do this.

Yeah, I'm real careful where I tread; once those turfs lose traction it's not coming back.

 

[WinterDeere]

I'll just mention ... It will be a sad day when the Husky 2354 finally wears out.

View attachment 3686448

What's to wear out? My 1963'ish Cub Cadet 123 was still running and mowing fine, when I sold it to make room in the barn for other toys, a few years ago. I did replace all of the HST control linkage and the seat cover around 2015, and did a valve guide job on the engine a few years after that. But other than that and maintenance items, it was all original.

I still occasionally mow with my 1971 (or 73?) Toro, as well. Started on the second pull after more than 2 years in storage, just a few weeks ago, and ran fine. It's easy to never die, when the performance was so low and non-optimized from the start. The thing probably has compression no higher than the blow pipe pressure of an ashmatic life-long smoker at age 80... but it runs!

By that token, I'd guess that little Husky could have another 50 years of life in it.

 

[Oaktree]

If you had a flat yard and only mowed, a X350 would be fine. If you had a sore shoulder or wanted to run a snowblower (higher lift and steering efforts), a X370 with PS/PL would be wonderful. Add in hills and want to pull loads or push snow: think X380. Maybe find a used one?

Leveling a deck is one of the most important things to do to optimize cut quality. My dad and FIL said the same thing as you though. ;<) They found it wasn't complicated once I went through it with them. It also calibrates the deck to the deck height knob: you set 3" height-of-cut you  get 3" HOC! Make the dealer show you how it's done.... several times! I do it once a year when I prepare the machine in the Spring. Hope this helps! Randy

Thanks for the info. It would only be used for mowing, I have a tractor and an ATV to plow snow or do heavier duty tasks.

Yes, I did have the dealer show me the height adjustment...there was a pedal, a knob and some sort of lever on the dash (which he didn't really explain very well). I suppose like walking and chewing gum, once you get used to it adjustment on the fly would probably become second nature.

Curiously, does all this leveling mechanism make it more difficult/non-intuitive when removing the deck for cleaning/sharpening/belt replacement?

Avoid the Husqvarna, it doesn't really have a frame.

I didn't know that. I'll have to look into that more. The Husq sellers around here are hardware stores, TSC, etc., not an actual dealer, so finding someone there who knows the product isn't likely.

What ever you get in your rocky and hilly areas, get something with a Limited Slip Differential, or a Differential Lock. I like my Cub Cadet, XT2 LX42, ... I would like it much better, with a manual locking diff. Just say'en......

That would be a nice to have. Turf tires don't have much traction if the grass is even slightly wet. Tried loading them on a previous mower, but it didn't help much.

All good info here, appreciate it. Fortunately, my current one is still more or less running so I can take my time shopping. Any online reviews/ratings I've seen have been all over the place, or posted by someone less than objective (ie-someone who deals on one particular brand).

 

[dadohead]

Curiously, does all this leveling mechanism make it more difficult/non-intuitive when removing the deck for cleaning/sharpening/belt replacement?

Not at all... it just helps you adjust the deck hangers. Here's how it works:

• You lower the deck to a predetermined cut height (marked on the HOC scale)
• The check gage is removed from its storage (center of the HOC knob)
• 3 leveling points are provided for every deck. The gage should just slip under each point (lh, rh, front). Check side-to-side first.
• A T-wrench is provided (stored under the seat) to adjust. It is inserted through top holes (either side of HOC knob) in the tunnel to adj rh/lh (WAY easier then it used to be!)
• Then adj front draft arm to the gage at point 3 on the deck (front)

Once done, the deck is level side-to-side, has the correct rake, AND is correlated to the HOC knob. Hope this helps.

Regarding diff-lock on a lawn tractor: I would regularly read safety reports where a customer would state "transmission failed/brakes failed" when a lawn tractor sailed uncontrolled down a hill. The dealer was contacted (hence 'safety report') Inspection always showed the machine to function correctly. What REALLY goes on is a machine breaking traction on slick turf. One rear breaks traction and spins backwards allowing the other tire to 'freewheel'. You'd SWEAR the whole drivetrain is broken! Using diff-lock to safely descend hills is actually a bigger plus than not getting stuck. Randy

 

[tacticalturnip]

If you're looking to stick with lawn and garden tractors, which I'm partial to myself, the options are not what they used to be.
Husqvarna still uses your standard suppliers- engine, transaxle, but the package they wrap it up in is really subpar. They really have dropped in quality.

I've got two threads I want to link to on MTF, if I'm not supposed to link to other forums- I'll take the hit. It's worth looking at them.

https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/a-tale-of-2-tractors.1404564/?post_id=13010999#post-13010999

BEWARE OF HUSQVARNA GARDEN TRACTORS (PART 1)

It was just recently brought to my attention again how hard it was on this forum to find my original story, "BEWARE OF HUSQVARNA GARDEN TRACTORS (PART 1)". After much consideration I decided to bring this post into it's own where it belongs so it can be found along with my other posts should you...

www.mytractorforum.com

I'd heard Simplicity was going out of business, but the website is still up.

John Deere still has a full range of lawn and garden tractors, but they may be the last. Cub Cadet makes a good lawn tractor with the XT2, and a lesser extent the XT1, they've at least got a good frame under them. I'd put my XT2 up against a Deere S240 any day, but it's not in the same category as the Deere X300 series machines so far as fit and finish go.

 

[Oaktree]

Cub Cadet makes a good lawn tractor with the XT2, and a lesser extent the XT1, they've at least got a good frame under them. I'd put my XT2 up against a Deere S240 any day, but it's not in the same category as the Deere X300 series machines so far as fit and finish go.

Hadn't really considered CC...just thought they were a box store, MTD/Murray-built brand these days like most of them. Not sure if anyone around here sells them, I'll have to check.