Help with choosing new rider mower

[Rock Crawler]

Roughly 1.5 acre lawn, hilly and rough so I need something that'll stand up to that kind of terrain.

Listen,
I'm a bit biased, but if you aren't bull crapping about living on slopes, your about to toss money out the window. You should go with a K66 transmission, and a Kawasaki V-twin. You'll likely want a deck that mows better than almost anything or there, and it's built like a tank.

Your in luck. The Husqvarna TS354XD and TS348XD do all of this for I believe right at $5,000 today.

I don't hate John Deere, heck I just spent $17,500 on a 2025 X758 with 60" auto connect deck 2 months ago. It sits beside my 2018 Husqvarna TS354XD with 300 hours on it. The TS354XD Tuff Torq K66 is serviceable, in that you can drain and refill the differential oil, and you can drain and refill the hydraulic pump side. I used a cut off wheel on a grinder to make a hole in the rear plate for simple and quick access to the 2 fill plugs.

The Husqvarna deck pulls grass upwards better, cuts a more smooth and flat path and discharges and spreads grass better than that $17,500 John Deere with its 60" High Capacity deck (the 7 iron is no longer available in the USA due to weight and the ROPS requirements that would come with it.

Assuming you don't care to push plows, snow blowers and stuff, go get the TS354XD. Those toy transmission models in the JD X300 and X500 series machines is a significant step down from the K66. Unless the hydraulic steering and hydraulic deck lift means that much to you.... them an X500 series towards the high end with the K58 is your best best bad choice.

I'm not a "Debby Downer" on John Deere, I currently own 3. But the weak transmission like the K46 is only acceptable in the 2/3 of the country that is flat. I don't live there, therefore those are a waste of good money for me. I live on a general 16 degree slope angle that has slopes as steep as 30 degrees.

Now, at my hunting camp I have a half acre of almost perfectly flat dirt, and i have a pair of 20+ year old L120 and LA125 cheap as all heck John Deere machines that are fine and dandy.

Do yourself a favor, buy one and cry once. TS354XD gets you the durability but without the hydraulic steering and deck lift. If you need those things, seriously consider a late model used X700 series for just a bit more $$.

 

[WinterDeere]

Your basic Troy-Bilt is now over $2k, and a Deere S100 is $2,400.

I would argue the majority of people spending up to $5k for a new mower are not keeping it for decades. The long-term folks are investing in the premium zero-turn market and Deere Ultimate Series, and they're shelling out a lot more than most.

One problem with shopping new mowers, is that it's something most folks only do every 20'ish years, and relatively tame inflation of just 3.5% roughly doubles the price in that time (1.035^20 = 1.99). I was pretty shocked that the replacement model for the mower I bought for $7600 in 2007 is now roughly $15k, until I did that math.

 

[panamaguy]

Not sure I'd call my LK3054 "little" (though I guess compared to an AG tractor it is). Way too many places it wouldn't fit...anything wider than a 42" isn't gonna fit in some of the places I have to go. Not looking for more places to hand mow!

Don't want to give my wife any ideas with a finish mower. We have some open field just beyond what I mow as lawn that I'll bushhog a couple times a year to keep the brush down. She complains about how ratty it looks afterwards, keep trying to tell her it's a bushhog, not a finish mower.

Am I safe in assuming the X370 is the 42" equivalent of the 380? Quite the price leap from the 350!

I'm 75, so I don't need another mower that'll last 30 years. Just looking for a good quality one that isn't overkill and won't break the bank. I'll take a look at those, but the price scares me off a bit.

If you have one from the 90s obviously its a good machine. Spend a few bucks and have someone repair the minor problems you mentioned. Newer does not always mean better. Think thinner metal etc. 50 years ago i had a Simplicity riding mower. Only a 36 inch deck BUT had a drive shaft from motor to the rear end, non of this belt crap. I'd give my eye teeth to have that machine today

 

[WinterDeere]

50 years ago i had a Simplicity riding mower.. had a drive shaft from motor to the rear end, non of this belt crap.

It'd be interesting to see how many garden tractors or even lawn tractors have gone back to belt drive, as that's where they all started.

Those into older tractors will know that one of the things that differentiated Cub Cadet from the rest, making them among the most popular and desired tractors, was that they were the first major brand to switch from belt drive to driveshaft, when the rest of the tractor-making world was still using belt drive.

Wheel Horse made some great garden tractors, and also later offered drive shaft models, but I believe Cub beat them to it by several years. Of course Cub was mostly coveted for being the first HST tractors, whereas the early Wheel Horse's were manual gear boxes. I had one of each.

To be honest, I'm not sure how much belt vs. driveshaft really matters, or if one is really better than the other. The drive shaft on my Cub Cadet was bent when I bought the thing, and the vibration caused by that caused many other component failures, until it was discovered and fixed. Prior owner had thought that engine (K301) just vibrated a lot, he never realized it was the drive shaft, all along.

 

[Aquabird]

I have a 17 hp Kaw and was shocked after I bought it about how much fuel it gulps.

 

[Runner]

Listen,
I'm a bit biased, but if you aren't bull crapping about living on slopes, your about to toss money out the window. You should go with a K66 transmission, and a Kawasaki V-twin. You'll likely want a deck that mows better than almost anything or there, and it's built like a tank.

Your in luck. The Husqvarna TS354XD and TS348XD do all of this for I believe right at $5,000 today.

I don't hate John Deere, heck I just spent $17,500 on a 2025 X758 with 60" auto connect deck 2 months ago. It sits beside my 2018 Husqvarna TS354XD with 300 hours on it. The TS354XD Tuff Torq K66 is serviceable, in that you can drain and refill the differential oil, and you can drain and refill the hydraulic pump side. I used a cut off wheel on a grinder to make a hole in the rear plate for simple and quick access to the 2 fill plugs.

The Husqvarna deck pulls grass upwards better, cuts a more smooth and flat path and discharges and spreads grass better than that $17,500 John Deere with its 60" High Capacity deck (the 7 iron is no longer available in the USA due to weight and the ROPS requirements that would come with it.

Assuming you don't care to push plows, snow blowers and stuff, go get the TS354XD. Those toy transmission models in the JD X300 and X500 series machines is a significant step down from the K66. Unless the hydraulic steering and hydraulic deck lift means that much to you.... them an X500 series towards the high end with the K58 is your best best bad choice.

I'm not a "Debby Downer" on John Deere, I currently own 3. But the weak transmission like the K46 is only acceptable in the 2/3 of the country that is flat. I don't live there, therefore those are a waste of good money for me. I live on a general 16 degree slope angle that has slopes as steep as 30 degrees.

Now, at my hunting camp I have a half acre of almost perfectly flat dirt, and i have a pair of 20+ year old L120 and LA125 cheap as all heck John Deere machines that are fine and dandy.

Do yourself a favor, buy one and cry once. TS354XD gets you the durability but without the hydraulic steering and deck lift. If you need those things, seriously consider a late model used X700 series for just a bit more $$.

That Husky looks like a good tractor for the money. Heavy duty deck and nice cushy seat too.

 

[Gord Baker]

Focus on the transaxle, not the engine. The transaxle sets the duty cycle on these machines.

I'm a retired JD engineer and worked on these products. The tractors you are looking at have K46 transaxles. As soon as you stated "hilly and rough"... it was clear: bump up to the K58 (engine doesn't matter). The K58 has a 1" axle and an internal charge pump that keeps the efficiency high in the main piston pump/motor. A X380 is more money but it will hold up to your conditions. The K58 has a much higher service life and the new "deep" decks are AWESOME cutters! Hope this helps.

Good Advice. I inherited an X320 2006 model year. K58 Trans replaced at 288 hours,2022. $1,800 Cdn dealer installed (to preserve warranty). Love the 22 HP Kawi.

 

[tacticalturnip]

@WinterDeere Cub Cadet even maintained a drive-shaft model until a year or two ago; the XT3. I had one... once.

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[sunandsand]

For my next riding mower, I am going to buy used off C/L. In this area (east central FL) a lot of people buy riding mowers and move out of town or into condos or simply hire a lawn service and suddenly the mower is in their way and they want it GONE - and there are some very good deals available on pretty new, low hours machines. A grand will buy you a really nice one, used one or maybe two seasons on a postage stamp sized lot in a development.

Note that this does not include zero turns or commercial (heavier duty) stuff, but if you need a light to medium duty riding mower, this is absolutely the way to go.

That said, not knowing what I know now, in 2012 I bought a brand spanking new Husqvarna 46" riding mower off the showroom floor at Lowes (error #1). Their "dealer prep" consisted of taking it out of the crate and rolling out onto the floor. Didn't even check the oil, tire pressures, nothing.

Sticker on the back - "For warranty service do not return to Lowes, call (whatever)". Whatever will come pick it up and charge for it - fix it (maybe) - and return it to you (and charge again) "optimally within six to eight weeks".

In 13 years, this mower has accumulated about 260 hours so far, has been maintained well and properly, not abused, kept inside, area mowed is about two acres of pretty flat ground, but it is the WORST piece of mechanical GARBAGE I have ever had the absolute displeasure of owning - and I'm almost 79 years old, so I've owned a lot of all kinds of machinery.

In fact, over the years, I've owned mid-60s Fiats that were better built and more dependable than this. Corvairs, too. Even a Pinto . . .

MTBF on this thing is in single digits! Something is always falling off, falling apart, breaking, coming out of adjustment, leaking, failing, needing to be replaced (again) - keeping this one mower running is a full time job! And I don't let the grass get six feet tall, either.

Mufflers - three so far- stress cracks. Spindles - five - hit a pebble and they break. Dry rotted tires from brand new "We've never seen that before but here's a set of inner tubes for free." Broken welds on the deck - after three hours from new. Entire seat separated from backing - and I'm not a big guy. Steering like an epileptic spider on ice skates - wheels needed shimming on axles to take up 3/8" of end play. Oil drain plug not tight, came within ten seconds of coming out and pouring hot oil on my foot - found this at oil change. Washout spigot on deck disintegrated evidently from exposure to air (aluminum!). Two carb rebuilds, no improvement, bought aftermarket carb from eBay, discovered the inlet manifold gasket was folded over at assembly, creating a BIG inlet leak, now it only runs poorly instead of like cr*p. Battery every two years, using/not using a maintainer makes no difference. Bolts made of (rancid) butter, replace with AN hardware every time, no further difficulties there anyway. Fatigue cracks in front of mower deck guide, falls apart, jams the blades, three times so far, now I order a replacement and a spare. Engine cover (the hood) blocks half the filler neck so when filling the gas tank, guaranteed gasoline splashes on the engine (awful design) - always let engine cool completely before refueling (SOP anyway), removed the hood and left it off (also improves being able to SEE where I'm cutting). Shade canopy (official Husqvarna accessory) sags down in minutes (needs Viagra?), had to make all new brackets and supports. Deck carefully adjusted exactly per manual (several times), new blades, still does a crappy job mowing.

There's more, but I'm getting carpal tunnel syndrome from typing . . .

What was the old car commercial "Ask the man who has one"? Well I have one and I am telling you that if you buy a Husqvarna you will regret it.

So here's my plan . . .

Part one - I'm going to buy a lawn service/yard maintenance business with an in-house manager.

Part two: Hiring interview will be based on how good a job the applicant does when they mow and trim MY yard.

Part three: I've going to give the Husqvarna a richly deserved full blown Viking funeral and post the video on YouTube.

Best Regards,
Mike/Florida

 

[rmburrow]

The 370 has the K57 while the 380 has the K58 that he talks about above.

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I have a John Deere X320 that is circling the drain. It has the Tuff Tork K58 transaxle. Garbage. My neighbor has four of these mowers at his shop with the same problem. I live in PA and property is hilly. The K58 transaxle began to fail around 400 hours and now I have to tow the mower up hill with my truck. Read the manual, John Deere says the transaxle is unserviceable. Considering the cost of these mowers, one should expect the transaxle to last 4000 hours on terrain normally found in the state the machine was sold. Next mower will be a used Cub Cadet with a serviceable transaxle.