LD1
Epic Contributor
Nothing is needed to be changed on the roof.
If you get metal liner panels, just screw them up to the bottoms of the trusses. Metal will span the 4' opening just fine for holding up lightweight insulation. But you wont want to walk on it from the top side. So when doing the insulation, make sure you stick to walking on lumber up there.
Diagonals in the corner are for lateral strength. I usually see them on the outside of the post. Where they are at now....kinda interferes with doing inside walls. But if doing inside walls, those really arent needed.
At this point, the hardest part is gonna be working around all the stuff in there. Trying to do insulation as an after though once the building is already in use and full of tools is a PITA. (pain in the @$$).
I have seen fiberglass insulation done two ways in a "pole barn".
1. You can add your own vertical studs, toe-nailed into the horizontal wall girts, either every 16" or 24". And run your fiberglass vertically just like in a house between studs.
2. You can add a 2x6 studs, horizontally, between the posts....attached to the horizontal girts.....and run the fiberglass horizontally.
What is the current spacing between the horizontal girts now.....would be nice to be right at 24" on center. If you decide to add vertical studs.....price the job as a whole before deciding if 16" or 24" centers is better. 16" is gonna require more studs....so more cost. But most times 16" insulation rolls or batts are cheaper per sq ft. So price it both ways if doing yourself.
A couple of pointers, keep the OSB wall sheathing and insulation OFF the concrete floor. Dont let it touch or it will draw moisture.
If you get metal liner panels, just screw them up to the bottoms of the trusses. Metal will span the 4' opening just fine for holding up lightweight insulation. But you wont want to walk on it from the top side. So when doing the insulation, make sure you stick to walking on lumber up there.
Diagonals in the corner are for lateral strength. I usually see them on the outside of the post. Where they are at now....kinda interferes with doing inside walls. But if doing inside walls, those really arent needed.
At this point, the hardest part is gonna be working around all the stuff in there. Trying to do insulation as an after though once the building is already in use and full of tools is a PITA. (pain in the @$$).
I have seen fiberglass insulation done two ways in a "pole barn".
1. You can add your own vertical studs, toe-nailed into the horizontal wall girts, either every 16" or 24". And run your fiberglass vertically just like in a house between studs.
2. You can add a 2x6 studs, horizontally, between the posts....attached to the horizontal girts.....and run the fiberglass horizontally.
What is the current spacing between the horizontal girts now.....would be nice to be right at 24" on center. If you decide to add vertical studs.....price the job as a whole before deciding if 16" or 24" centers is better. 16" is gonna require more studs....so more cost. But most times 16" insulation rolls or batts are cheaper per sq ft. So price it both ways if doing yourself.
A couple of pointers, keep the OSB wall sheathing and insulation OFF the concrete floor. Dont let it touch or it will draw moisture.
