Good landscape rake - cheap (Part 2 - Daver1963's attempt)

[Daver1963]

Hi Dave,

You are totally welcome, it is cool.

Thanks for the feeback, I may need some stiffer tines, I'll have to look around.

If I can come up with a pivot, I know that you can, but only if it will work for you.

Thanks again,
Thomas

Thomas,
Here are some options on rake teeth
Tractor Supply Company
Rural King
Agri Supply
On the first two links the one I used is the $1.99 version

 

[PhysAssist]

I looked at TSC's rubber based tines, today locally, and they are $2.29 here.

I have also been looking at their other tines, like the ones for hayrakes, but the prices are the same or higher, and it seems like they'd be harder to attach.

Thanks,
Thomas

Thomas,
Here are some options on rake teeth
Tractor Supply Company
Rural King
Agri Supply
On the first two links the one I used is the $1.99 version

 

[bcp]

Your eyes must be better than mind, I couldn't see that at first, but I think you are right, pull those pins and take off the wheels, turn them up, and go to it.

Thanks,
Thomas

It looks like the wheels will fit into the front square tube, too. That may let you use the rear teeth only (or some other row), with wheels as depth gauge, with an adjustment of the top link.

Bruce

 

[gtrippleb]

I looked at TSC's rubber based tines, today locally, and they are $2.29 here.

I have also been looking at their other tines, like the ones for hayrakes, but the prices are the same or higher, and it seems like they'd be harder to attach.

Thanks,
Thomas

Here's a picture that kind of shows the attachment of the hay tine rake teeth.


I used the green ones from TSC when I built my dethatcher/rake.

They work great for picking up pine straw but for leaves they could be better. What contributes to this is that the spacing I have them at is to far apart also, as some of the leaves will slip past them. There is a red hay rake tooth that is narrower than the green ones that would probably work a little better for leaves.

Greg

 

[Daver1963]

Here's a picture that kind of shows the attachment of the hay tine rake teeth.
View attachment 356739

I used the green ones from TSC when I built my dethatcher/rake.
View attachment 356740
They work great for picking up pine straw but for leaves they could be better. What contributes to this is that the spacing I have them at is to far apart also, as some of the leaves will slip past them. There is a red hay rake tooth that is narrower than the green ones that would probably work a little better for leaves.

Greg

In your first picture I like the way you hooked up those tines. Do they get cock-eyed during use or do they pretty much stay straight?

 

[gtrippleb]

That first picture is one I pulled off of a thread on tbn, not sure where I grabbed it from.

I don't have a good picture of mine on the computer, but you can get an idea from this thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/202595-dethatcher.html#post2333291

I used 1 inch angle iron, I think it was, welded to the bottom and attached them so they were butted against one side of the angle. You can kind of see the welded angle in this picture.

This allows them not to get cock-eyed.

Kennyd has a nice close up picture of how he attached his when he built his dethatcher a few yrs ago located here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/65334-3ph-dethatcher.html#post728530

It will depend on which teeth you use on how you'll need to attach them. Hopefully this will give you some ideas. It sure beats raking leaves by hand. :thumbsup:
Greg

 

[PhysAssist]

Thanks Greg!

Thomas

That first picture is one I pulled off of a thread on tbn, not sure where I grabbed it from.

I don't have a good picture of mine on the computer, but you can get an idea from this thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/202595-dethatcher.html#post2333291

I used 1 inch angle iron, I think it was, welded to the bottom and attached them so they were butted against one side of the angle. You can kind of see the welded angle in this picture.
View attachment 356745
This allows them not to get cock-eyed.

Kennyd has a nice close up picture of how he attached his when he built his dethatcher a few yrs ago located here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/65334-3ph-dethatcher.html#post728530

It will depend on which teeth you use on how you'll need to attach them. Hopefully this will give you some ideas. It sure beats raking leaves by hand. :thumbsup:
Greg

 

[Daver1963]

I've steadily worked, weather permitting, on the mods for my yard/pine needle rake. I added tines to get the spacing to every 3 inches and built a 3pt hitch so I could raise it higher to get it out of the pile of needles I just raked.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

8. 9. 10.

1., 2., & 3. 3pt hitch I made
4. & 5. rake on tractor
6. &. 7. before raking
8. some raking done
9. after raking
10. pile of pine needles 10ft in diameter and 3ft high. About halfway done on this side of house. I have a pile similar in size on the other side of the house.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

Like in post 14, that is how my 3 rows of times are set up....
With the wheels as they are in the picture, it rakes 3/4" deep... There are 3 holes in the legs, at 1" apart to adjust the wheels up the leg it is on..
Or like said, un-pinned and removed.... The rake assembly bolts to the universal 3pt tool bar... It will also bolt onto the tool bar backwards of what it is in the picture....

It also works well for minor, or finish grooming of the gravel driveway....

Now I just have to build a 3pt lift for the front of my tractor to run the rake out in front of the mower deck....

Keep the good ideas coming....
===

 

[BukitCase]

Wyobuckaroo, I'm planning on "borrowing" most of your rake - here's one change I'll make, since I have a hydraulic toplink -

use BOTH of your crosstubes as anchor points, do a couple of tees into each of them, then some fairly sturdy square tube (on each side) thru those tees, going to the REAR by maybe 2 feet or so - put your gauge wheels back there, use the pin adjustments so that, with the hydraulic toplink RETRACTED, the tines penetrate ground by maybe 3/4" -

Then you have infinite control of "dig" by varying toplink on the fly. You'd still have your 3 point lift to dump, and once you find the "sweet spot" you probably wouldn't have to change the toplink much at all... Steve