FIRST Tractor- Kinda nervous!

[Thumper & Buttercup]

Here you go,

In this first picture I'm showing that small lock pin that I'm talking about, this is the thin pin that is about 9" long that locks the adjustment arm pin into place.

Now you pull that small pin out, now you can rotate that larger arm that pivots in the hole of the Loader and the loader mount hole. When you pivot that arm it releases the tension that holds the loader in the mount, it will just pull out now. Here is what the loader looks on the ground.

 

[Little John]

thank you for the pics! I may try to take the loader off this weekend as a trial run. Not sure if I will have time or not.
Thank you again and I will let ya know how it goes.

 

[wwalkersd]

Is there a place I can find step by step instructions of how to unhook the loader? The tractor is a T2220 and loader 240TL.

One thing you haven't mentioned is why you want to remove the loader. If the reason is that the bucket is getting in your way, and your loader has a quick-attach bucket, it's a lot less trouble to just detach the bucket and leave the loader attached, and gives you almost as much extra clearance.

 

[Little John]

Yes, I will be removing the bucket, but once all the snow is gone I dont have much on the table for the loader in the near future, so I will be removing the whole thing.

 

[wwalkersd]

Yes, I will be removing the bucket, but once all the snow is gone I dont have much on the table for the loader in the near future, so I will be removing the whole thing.

If you do, it's quite likely that you'll need to add front suitcase weights to keep the front end down when using heavy rear implements. It's cheaper to leave the loader on, unless you really need to get it out of the way.

 

[csr0831]

Hey Little John....slightly OT, but I was wondering...what is it you like about your 2110? I have the pedacessor to that mchine (2100) and I don't care for it at all. The quality of cut is very poor and even worse, it has less then 100 hours and it's been in the shop twice for oil leaks in the tranny. It appears to have a VERY weak tranny as it will not even spin the wheels over unless you are on the sofest, and/or slipperiest of materials, i.e pine straw or sand. It doesn't even lug the engine down...I had the relief valve checked and it's popping at the correct pressure....was just wondering if you have experanced any of the same problems. Please fogive the interuption on the thread. Thanks

Chris

 

[Little John]

Well, So far I have had no problems with it. I doubt you will be able to spin the wheels as it is 4wd. Isnt that a good thing? I can take it up a serious sloop, on wet grass and turn sharp without spinning the wheels and that makes me VERY happy. As far as power, I have never ran into a situation where I have lugged the engine...Thats good too! I guess I dont understand why you are unhappy that the wheels dont spin. I understand about the oil leaks, that would make me mad too, but so far so good. I actually waited for the 2110 to come out because I heard of the tranny problem with the 2100. My dealer promised me that the problem was fixed and so far so good.
BTW, all 4 of my tires are loaded with wiper fluid.
I have steep slopes, lots of trees and about 3 acres of grass, and the machine handles it all very well. Are your blades sharp? Tires Loaded?
Which deck do you have?
To tell you the truth I think it is the best piece of equipment I have ever purchased. The only reason I bought the New Holland instead of a Kubota was the dealership is MUCH closer (10min vs. 1 hour) . I really like the B3030 Kubota, but the price was much higher and I heard the seat on that tractor is a POS. Not that I cant replace a seat, its just the princilple of it all.

 

[csr0831]

Hey...thanks for the quick reply...Some tractors use the fact that the wheels WILL spin as a check valve and if they don't, it will shut the engine down. I have been working on an old bulkhead in which I have to put some chain around blocks of concrete and pull them out of a deppression. Most of the time the 2100 will not budge them...even on a manicured lawn it will just sit there...you can hear the tranny whining which I assume is the bypass, so I ease up on it immeadiatly. I have a a 30 year old gravely tractor with only 18 HP and two wheel drive and it will move the same blocks under the same conditions without breaking as sweat. The 2100 is only about half as fast in reverse as it is in foward and will not back up a moderate slope, that it WILL go up in forward. I have the 54 inch deck, and it is level, blades are sharp, but when cutting transversly accross a slope (maybe 10%) it cuts deeper on on side the the other resulting in "ridges". Again...the old Gravely cuts the same area flawlessly (50 inch deck)

The limitations of the tranny do not seem to bother me during "normal" grass cutting and I do not wish to ask more from the machine then it is designed to give, BUT I feel that something is wrong with this one, or it's a really BAD desgin. Appreantly yours is better...I hope you continue to have no trouble with it! Good luck with your new machine too...sounds nice!

Chris

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

Hey Chris,

My T2220 will spin all 4 tires working, I was working last weekend and put the tractor in High range, she pulled great, had no problems moving dirt and snow mounds around. It will be fun to see how it handles the summer work we have planned.

 

[Little John]

I think I understand, we are talking about 2 different situations. I'm refering to losing traction due to slippery conditions and your talking about diggin a hole do to load. I have never pulled anything with the GR2110, so I cant say If I can break the tires loose. Although it really is meant to just cut or push, hence no 3 pt..

 

[csr0831]

Yes, we are probaly reffering to two differant senerios. However, I guess what I am wondering is, if the tires will not spin, how do I know that they are being delivered the full torque possible. In other words...if they do not spin over, how do I know that another x ft/lbs of torque could still be applied resulting in more power to the ground. The unit may be falling way short of maximum possible torque to the wheels. The only way I would know that it is delivering all "useable" power is if it will spin them over. The point just prior to wheel spin represents the maximum usable power to the ground. I am not getting wheel spin so I do not know that the unit is delivering all it is capable of. I'm sure lots of other factors are involved like weight of the operator, type of surface and type of tire, ect. It may be that the unit is designed like this (low bleed off point at the relief valve) because the tranny is just too weak to handle the stress and if that is the case, it's a pretty poor design! Sorry for the rant....I'm better now : )

Chris

 

[Little John]

I understand. The GR series is what i consider a lawn mower, that is what I wanted. All that I do know is it does that job incredibly well. I was considering the BX series and trying to use one machine to mow AND do tractor work, but I decided against that. I wanted a machine that allowed me to cut the lawn FAST and in comfort, thats what the GR does. Then I knew I would buy a tractor for tractor work.

I talked to the dealer today and we are going to try a few things this weekend to make the peddle easier to push on the T2220. I'll post our results!

 

[Iplayfarmer]

The only way I would know that it is delivering all "useable" power is if it will spin them over.

Or if you have enough traction, the engine dies.

I figure if the tires don't spin, and the engine doesn't die, there's still available power that I'm not using.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. something got to give.. or you ain't hitting it hard enough..

soundguy

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

Hey Little John,

Don't forget the pictures of what they do!!!
Thanks.

 

[Sir knight]

Ok, I am buying a New Holland T2220 tractor(hydro-35hp.) with loader. I also added a 6' rear blade, 12" auger and 48" rotary cutter, all Rhino equipment.
I will be using the tractor for some snow removal, food plots, general work on 36 acres.
What pitfalls should I watch for?
Any Advice with the Hydro on hills or working with the equipment?
What are the most common newbie mistakes?
THANKS!
John.

Hey John let me tell you what i went threw.I bought a new holland t2410 the first day the hydraulic line blew on my driveway then the four wheel drive linkage fell off and now they replaced the pto clutches and its has popping sounds out of the jotstick of the loader so my advice is to spend more money a get a kubota thats what i did and i really love.good luck

 

[jimainiac]

Ok, I am buying a New Holland T2220 tractor(hydro-35hp.) with loader. I also added a 6' rear blade, 12" auger and 48" rotary cutter, all Rhino equipment.
I will be using the tractor for some snow removal, food plots, general work on 36 acres.
What pitfalls should I watch for?
Any Advice with the Hydro on hills or working with the equipment?
What are the most common newbie mistakes?
THANKS!
John.

Congratulations on your new tractor, I know you'll enjoy it. When bushogging, I think it's good to run the PTO around 540 RPM, that's what they're designed for. You mentioned that your property is hilly, so it's important to keep it in 4WD. With the front wheels connected to the rears it provides braking power to the front wheels. Also, be mindful of where the loader bucket is when backing up and turning. When you're concentrating on where you're going in reverse it's easy to forget about that bucket swinging around. (Don't ask me how I learned this.)
Others have mentioned this, but one of the most important things anybody can do initially is to read thoroughly all the manuals that came with the equipment. Good luck!