Just got my first tractor. Tips for mowing steep slopes?

[Diggin It]

The one i really didn't understand was someone posted about a 20 to 25 degree slope actually being 40 to 45 degrees. Huh? And the fact that he mows a 45 degree slope. I couldn't sit my tractor on a 45 degree slope with a helicopter and get it to stay upright. You guys need a big set of training wheels for your tractors. Hmmm, there's a thought. Hydraulically lifted outriggers.

Difference is degrees vs. percent of grade.

Mine measured to 23 degrees which shows on charts as somewhere around a 42% grade.

I've postulated on the outriggers before.

 

[oosik]

Well - I've never worried about slope, degrees or grade. My property is rolling mole hills with absolutely vertical drop offs. You could not superglue a Q ball to the vertical drop offs on my property. A whole lot of these are the basaltic lava cliffs around my little lake. Thirty five foot fall into water that's 40 feet deep. I maintain, at least, a 20 foot "safety zone" around these cliffs - for all types of equipment.

 

[workinonit]

Yea, all that would take is swatting a bug on the ZTR.

 

[bearthebruce]

I've hesitated to comment as I am a relative newbie around here.. lurking for only 3 years. Learned a lot in that time. We mow 15-20 degree slopes on our 15 acre meadow. 1st year, lots of seat pucker owing to the slopes and not knowing the land. (We'll not mention grapevines on a bank sliding the tractor sideways into a creek)

It didn't help that there was no front weight on the machine pulling a 650lb bush hog. Learned real fast that one makes very long motions at the top of the hill - loops if you will. 2nd year, we added a FEL to our machine. Oh, that felt a whole bunch better. That's how we run now still doing the big loops.

The wheels are not filled. We have not seen a reason to do so. Not sure it would make a big difference on these hills but I've heard all the thoughts on doing so.

We run in 4WD always. I had one instance that first year where the dummy in the seat allowed the tractor to start downhill - not in gear. Total fail on my part... and quite the learning experience with the hog pushing the tractor forward. I got it under control.. but... had to run back to the house for a change of pants.

At 200+hours now, I am beginning to get the right feel of what I can and what I should not do. Mowing slopes takes practice and thinking about how to run the machine up and down those slopes. The more practice I get, the more comfortable I get.

Being an engineer, I choose the route that works well and then stick with that program every year...

Every time I start a new piece of land, which I have not mowed prior, I go super slow, taking what I have learned here and in the seat, making the best decisions I can make. Still, every piece of land offers surprises in the Blue Mountains of Virginia.

This summer, I am supposed to train a newbie. I worry about him rolling the tractor.

Thanks for all the advice... I find this forum immensely helpful.

 

[MoKelly]

Yea, all that would take is swatting a bug on the ZTR.

Ha! I’ve noticed when I mow early that there are many birds swooping in front of me - say 10 feet out. I assume they are catching bugs flying out of the grass to avoid the mower?

MoKelly

 

[hube2]

For those who say the mmm is no deterrent to a side flip l’d suggest they lift up on an outer side and see how high they can lift it.

Since my deck weighs nearly 300#, not far. I would suggest instead to put a floor jack under one side and you'll be able to lift it all the way to the top. There is no down pressure on the mower. My mower is designed to ride on its wheels and be free to move up over high spots rather than have the wheels dig into the lawn. Just like my 3PH allows my blower to go up and over high spots instead of digging. The only force keeping it down is the weight of the implement.

 

[tallguy104]

Quick question Mate... What tyres are running? R1, R4... ?

R4 industrial tyres

 

[ning]

(caveat - didn't read all 7 pages)
If I had a 20-25 degree slope - and I do - I wouldn't mow it at all. Pay someone to clear it from time to time and leave it be, that's too steep to mess with.

 

[Egon]

Since my deck weighs nearly 300#, not far. I would suggest instead to put a floor jack under one side and you'll be able to lift it all the way to the top. There is no down pressure on the mower. My mower is designed to ride on its wheels and be free to move up over high spots rather than have the wheels dig into the lawn. Just like my 3PH allows my blower to go up and over high spots instead of digging. The only force keeping it down is the weight of the implement.

How high can you lift the outside of a mmm when it is fully lifted?

 

[ning]

How high can you lift the outside of a mmm when it is fully lifted?

Yeah, put a jack under it and see if you can lift the whole tractor that way.
On second thought, my guess is that the mmm isn't designed to take that kind of stress, and relying on it to stop a roll-over is asking for (a) damage to the mower & tractor and (b) death.

 

[Egon]

If it stops a side rollover,and it will, your ahead.

Jacking up one to see how high it will lift shouldn’t damage anything. It will tell you the side angle the tractor will get to though.

 

[cmyoung2]

I have a BX2230 with a FEL, and steep hills just like you, almost 10 acres. Turf tires, fluid filled rears(now), chains, and 2" spacers on the rear. With the spacers and chains I can't use the MMM, have to take the chains off. For the pasture I use a 50" flail mower. I back up, drive down most of it, there is no place on top I can turn around. Would not even consider backing down even though driving up is not a problem. I keep the FEL on, but the bucket is low. With hydrostatic drive and 4x4, I still watch speed and traction. There is nothing quite like losing traction going down hill with a tractor, which is one reason I run chains. Slow is good, seat belt and ROPS will save your life if you go over.