F3680 slope capacity?

[2manyrocks]

I have 5-6 acres of hillside some with 25 degree slopes to mow. Local kubota dealer has a 2012 F3680 4wd with 2300 hours for $9,000. Apparently, I can get a 63" Perruzo flail mower for about $6,000.

Wondering if this is something that would work or should I put that money towards a Ventrac or Power Trac instead?

 

[Hay Dude]

I have 5-6 acres of hillside some with 25 degree slopes to mow. Local kubota dealer has a 2012 F3680 4wd with 2300 hours for $9,000. Apparently, I can get a 63" Perruzo flail mower for about $6,000.

Wondering if this is something that would work or should I put that money towards a Ventrac or Power Trac instead?

I have one and it’ll climb a wall. It’ll also descend steep slopes safely. Excellent traction up & down steep hills. Sideways on a hill is also stable, but it will tend to “crab” a bit, requiring steering adjustments.

Take a picture of it and post it.

 

[arto98607]

I think Perruzo has 72 inch flail mowers ($6500) for Kubota F models, 63 inch mower is kind of small in my opinion for 5 - 6 acre area.

 

[2manyrocks]

My only thought was the smaller flail would be more stable on a hillside? This is a hillside field that will grow up in brush if I don't keep it cut. It won't be maintained as a lawn. I was also thinking a smaller flail would be able to handle taller material?

There's another thread in which one TBN member said grass over 12" tall tends to wreck the seals on the wheels? Would this still be the case if the material is first cut with a flail mower?

This thread seems to indicate a 3680 will handle a slope similar to mine. F3080 MOWING ON HILLSIDE VIDEO

 

[2manyrocks]

HST pump was replaced last year. Prior owner used it to mow farm hillsides. Should I be concerned about the machine being near the end of its expected life with this kind of hard use?

 

[Hay Dude]

Pump being replaced is great. Thats kind of like having a new transmission. Check the oil and coolant. to see if there’s anything off about them. Check the air filter. This is a N/A machine, so no turbo to worry about.
I don’t know how hard/how many hours you plan to use it?

 

[2manyrocks]

I would like to cut a couple of 5-6 acre hillsides that so far measure between 18 and 28 degrees in slope. It will be all hillside mowing and I think will be pretty hard on the transmission.

 

[Hay Dude]

I would like to cut a couple of 5-6 acre hillsides that so far measure between 18 and 28 degrees in slope. It will be all hillside mowing and I think will be pretty hard on the transmission.

It’s really not. If you run it in low range, it’ll scoot right up the hill. Those Kubota HST’s are pretty tough. Ask the dealer to let you demo it.

 

[Rip]

If you still debating on suitable machine, I have both a F-2880 w/60" deck and 3680 w/72" deck on our 4 acre VERY steep property for last 11 years. The property was very overgrown (heavy grass, not woody brush) when we bought it but was able to fully clear with the stock 60" Kubota deck although I did consider a flail. Both these machines had been ex-municipal, so had hard and abusive early years. 2300 hours on that machine not high at all for these units built for heavy commercial/industrial use.

Some mods / Alterations / Notes:
> 3" wheel spacers on main wheels
> Fluid-fill main tires (new turf, but bar better if can find)
> Double rear counter-weight
> Disable seat switch - you do NOT want engine to quit on steep hill!
> Always wear seatbelt - a bike helmet even on steepest terrain
> Wrap-around safety googles & ear protection
> Mower set 4" or higher
> Mow up/down on steepest
> Use Diff-lock on steepest (going up or down)
> 4WD Lock only when going straight as needed
> Lift mower deck for more traction on first pass as needed
> Clean radiator and airfilter often

After living on this coastal Tasmanian property for 12 years, my Kubota F-series are the best machines with local support/parts in my opinion. I had a PowerTrac 1845 for years on a very steep Colorado property with much tree work and snow removal to be done, but no mowing. It was a great machine for that land and circumstances (custom grapple, forks, hyd winch, hyd chipper, hyd 72" snow blower, fire tank, etc), but never even had a mower for it... considered shipping it downunder, but no regrets.

IMHO, a 63" flail would be fine size-wise if you need the capability for heavy woody brush. Good Luck!!! Cheers, Rip

 

[2manyrocks]

I'm still evaluating what to do.

After starting this thread, I had the hillsides mulched by a forestry mulcher. I am now better able to see the actual land contours, but still need to measure some of the slope changes again.

One additional consideration is that there are some piles of mulched material that are pretty deep in places. It will make for some rough mowing until the mulch rots.

Would it be better to change the main drive tires from turf to bar tread or use chains?

I have considered buying a PT 1445 with a brush mower, but that would cost $40,000 new.

If you have any additional perspective as to the PT versus the F3680, I'd be very much interested in your thoughts.

 

[Rip]

G'Day.... Can understand some of your dilemma.... I got my PT-1845 and F-series used and the price was right.... they are way too $$$$ for personal use IMO.

The PT was built like a tank, 45 HP Deutz engine plenty of power and durable like Kubota. Very stable with minimal ground clearance but full skid-plate underside, so scraping bottom not a problem, but can (and did) get hung up on rock or stumps... no worries, just drag it off.

As you are near the factory, no worries on parts or real service, but you seem to be familiar with other machinery. I was mostly winching (hyd Warn running off the PTO circuit), grappling, chipping, etc on 20 to 35 deg rocky hillsides in between standing trees. After too many rock-cut tires I foam filled them for durability and even more stability and traction. (Fluid filling better for grass/dirt traction and stability if no need the cut protection.) I also spaced out all 4 single wheels for more side-hill stability. I have no experience with the PT hyd mower decks. My snow blower was a 72" from SkidSteerSolutions with my own mounting plate. Articulated has its pros & cons.... but overall quite good.

The F-Series is a factory-built Frankenstein of B and BX parts with somewhat lower CG (smaller tires) than the B/BX that maneuvers like a fork-lift.... have to always be aware of the ass end when near fences, trees, buildings. With what I mentioned above, they are very well suited for my steep paddocks with no (more) rocks or stumps. The 60" deck (came on the F-2880) probably better suited for tight maneuvering or undulating terrain than the 72". I did fabricate double-ended skidbars of 3/4' solid round for deck ends to minimise digging in in dips, and couple fixed anti-scalp wheels in rear center of mower deck for the humps.

I recently made up (could not find right size down here!) set of cross-link tire chains for main drives, but check clearance with deck corner anti-scalp wheels if you do. Only use them on the steepest sections when grass very dry = slippery.... ordinary cheap chain as only limited use on grass.... Bonzer!

Overall, prefer the F-series for my primarily mowing purposes here, but the PT was great for what I had to deal with in the Rockies. For bit more versatility (since my only machines here) I fabricated a manual tipping carry-all (like made for 3pt hitch), but would do it hyd if do over again. Also forks and dedicated 60 gal fire tank w/Honda and 12V pumps/hoses. Was going to sell the F-28 after I got the F-36 set up right, but worth more to me as full back-up and everything is interchangeable!

Good Luck!!! Cheers, Rip

Either should work for you.... hard to say which would be best.

 

[2manyrocks]

I'm posting a couple of pictures after the forestry mulching was done. The operator told me where the slope felt the worst to him. One of those areas measures 32.7 degrees near the base of the hillside.

Kubota doesn't publish any official slope rating that I know of. I think I recall that one TBN members posted he had mowed a grassy lawn slope was 27.4 degrees.

There is now about 4 inches of mulch material on the surface. Additionally, the mulching left behind some shattered tree residue including shattered nubs of tree stumps.

Starting to wonder if this is just too much for a F3680 with a finish mower and turf tires in terms of steepness and rough field mowing conditions?

 

[Hay Dude]

I'm posting a couple of pictures after the forestry mulching was done. The operator told me where the slope felt the worst to him. One of those areas measures 32.7 degrees near the base of the hillside.

Kubota doesn't publish any official slope rating that I know of. I think I recall that one TBN members posted he had mowed a grassy lawn slope was 27.4 degrees.

There is now about 4 inches of mulch material on the surface. Additionally, the mulching left behind some shattered tree residue including shattered nubs of tree stumps.

Starting to wonder if this is just too much for a F3680 with a finish mower and turf tires in terms of steepness and rough field mowing conditions?


View attachment 841177View attachment 841178

Is a clean up of the shreddings possible with a landscape rake?
That doesn’t look as steep as some of my steeper clients places, but I wouldn’t want to run anything better than a set of junk mower blades through that debris.
Clean up into piles with landscape rake and burn?

 

[2manyrocks]

The company that did the mulching has a root rake grapple for their Cat 299d and might possibly do it, but I didn't ask them about doing it. I personally wouldn't want to get my MX5200 on that slope with a rake.

Since the F3680 finish mower blades don't pivot like brush cutter blades, I'm also concerned that both the blades and the mower spindles could get bent.

I'm also not sure about ground clearance in some areas where the mulch got piled up deeper.

Most of the wood that was mulched is poplar, gum or elm.

 

[Rip]

So long as any stumps are ground down to near ground level and no significant rocks, either of my F-Series would handle that easily with Kubota deck at about 4" and turf tires.... even without my loaded tires, 3" wheel spacers, etc.

The Kubota blades are mounted to spindles with cupped washers to let them slip if hit rock or stump.... still try to avoid.... should have no issue going over the mulched material if no really Big chunks. Blades and spindles are pretty tough, and outboard blades also belt driven, so only center blade gearbox driven by PTO, and even it is internal clutch driven.

No ground clearance issues.... I would double the rear counterweight as ass end is quite light with only the 50Kg standard. The other mods I have made mainly provide additional stability and peace-of-mind on my significantly steeper sections.

Happy New Year and Good Luck.... Rip

 

[2manyrocks]

Happy New Year to you.

 

[Hay Dude]

I’d also want to clean up those chips as they will soak up all the moisture off the ground, inhibiting grass roots from growing.

 

[2manyrocks]

Sounds like work. One thing I don't want is to get erosion started on the hillside. What would you suggest? Do I leave them this winter and remove them in early Spring when the grass would start growing again?

 

[Hay Dude]

I don’t know your location.
Raking the debris downhill should be fairly easy. Gravity will help.

 

[2manyrocks]

Middle Tennessee. The grass normally will start growing March-April depending on the weather. This hillside tends to be wet in the Spring because the hill shades the slope from the sun in the winter so it doesn't tend to dry out.