Equipment Dollies I Made

TerryR · Mar 26, 2012

I sadly came to the conclusion that 1) I'm not getting any younger, 2) my tractor "toys" are not getting any lighter, and 3) the number of toys has outgrown the space I designed into my storage shed. As a result changing attachments was becoming a growing issue. I looked at quick hitches, but concluded they are expensive, heavy, and didn't really address the storage issue.

So with my 70th birthday approaching last fall I decided to finally move ahead with a long-standing idea to build dollies for most of my attachments. The photos show the result, which have been very satisfactory. I changing attachments is now much easier. I no longer have to get the tractor in just the right position, and the tools move easily to make the connections. Implements stacked in front of others is no longer an issue - I can just wheel them aside to get to the one in the rear.

Not having welding tools, I made them from scrap wood, buying only the bolts and casters. I found Caster City very helpful - they have a wide variety of types, and there is a live person who will advise on type, size, and tire type based on weight, floor condition, etc.

Learnings: 1) The 600# chipper is about the upper limit in weight for this approach. Even with heavy duty casters, it's a bit tough to get moving. 2) The one for the tiller is under-engineered. Even with very old hard 2x4s, they are bowing laid flat. They will get reinforced next time I get the tiller out. 3) The fixed upright on the blade dolly is less than ideal. Since I often adjust the top link to get the blade to cut as needed, when I bring it in it always needs adjustment to set on the dolly.

But all in all, they are a big improvement. I no longer hesitate to change implements for a few minutes of work.

Terry

sfloggie · Mar 26, 2012

Very nice Terry and thanks for the pictures. I need to do the same and your ideas help.

I am also in the older phase as I passed the "getting older" a while ago!

Best to you.

Jim

Branchchipper · Mar 26, 2012

Thanks for posting the pics- I did the exact same thing a while back for a half-dozen implements!
It was a big success from several angles- better use of storage space, ease of movement of very heavy stuff, and safety!
As stated, it makes it much more "pleasant" to simply drive up and swap out implements.

Bullseye · Mar 26, 2012

I have been thinking about making some myself.

I also keep thinking about getting a pallet jack and using pallets. Has anyone tried this method?

tractchores · Mar 26, 2012

Nice dollies! I'm doing the same myself, but don't have nearly the assortment of implements you do. For really heavy stuff you might try the rubberized casters, I made a dolly for my BH, which weighs over 1,000 lbs and it's not too bad to roll around on a clean floor using those wheels.

Here are the ones I built:

Triguy1 · Mar 26, 2012

Brilliant! I made these two recently, they have made it a lot easier to do things by myself.

TerryR · Mar 26, 2012

Bullseye,

I'd think that if storage space is an issue, using pallets would cause wasted floor space. By building dollies to fit each item, you can pack them more closely together.

Depending on the nature of the storage area, I'd also think getting the pallet jack into the items might be an issue. Probably not if you have a square building, but one line mine that's long and narrow, with access to the front of each bay, would be a problem.

Terry

lhfarm · Mar 26, 2012

Great job! Thanks for posting. A few years ago I built a BH dolly and it was my first welding job. It is still sticking together and has been wonderful. I think wood is great for smaller implements. I like your blade stand and will copy it. How would you change the upright if you were doing it again?

ENG18LT · Mar 26, 2012

Well done! Just a couple weeks ago I decided to start putting stuff on rolling stands for two reasons. 1) storage space and 2) easier to hook up. I made the decision to do this after buying a PHD, wasn't planning on the purchase

. I couldn't come up with a good way to store the PHD inside and did not want to just drill it into the ground. So this is what I came up with:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258048&stc=1&d=1332790576

After I did this and tried it, I thought wow! That was easy to hook up AND store. I just need to get some more wheels and steel for the rest of my toys, I mean tools! :laughing:

Ed Hill · Mar 26, 2012

I am only 60 but I came to the same conclusion. So far I have built wood dollies with casters for my box blade, my Meyer Drive-pro snow plow, my tiller, and my Herd sander. My backhoe is so big that I drop it onto two wooden timbers someplace in the yard. Your posting inspire me to consider a dolly though. If I were smarter with computers I would post pictures.

TerryR · Mar 26, 2012

Thanks for the comments, everyone.

Barry,

For the blade stand I'd try to work out a way to have the upright fold, so I could drive off it after picking up the blade. As it is, I need to lift the blade then roll the dolly off to the side because the blade itself hits the upright when I pull out.

I'd also see if I could figure out how to make the height of the upright adjustable, so it could be set to fit whatever height I have the blade set at the time. The issue being that I adjust the top link often to angle the blade for different tasks, and as it is I have to crank it back to the setting the stand is build for when I take the blade off.

Terry

TerryR · Mar 26, 2012

tractchores said:
Nice dollies! I'm doing the same myself, but don't have nearly the assortment of implements you do. For really heavy stuff you might try the rubberized casters, I made a dolly for my BH, which weighs over 1,000 lbs and it's not too bad to roll around on a clean floor using those wheels.

Thanks, tractchores,

Interesting you are having good results with a 1,000 load. The casters I used are rubber tired, rated at 300 lbs each - the 3RF4x1 on Caster City's site. It could be the floor surface also matters. Mine is concrete, but a rough "broom" surface and the building has an open front, so there is some debris that blows in. They do roll OK, but you have to put some muscle into getting it started rolling or changing direction.

Terry

tractchores · Mar 26, 2012

TerryR said:
Thanks, tractchores,

Interesting you are having good results with a 1,000 load. The casters I used are rubber tired, rated at 300 lbs each - the 3RF4x1 on Caster City's site. It could be the floor surface also matters. Mine is concrete, but a rough "broom" surface and the building has an open front, so there is some debris that blows in. They do roll OK, but you have to put some muscle into getting it started rolling or changing direction.

Terry

Interesting. My casters are very similar (250 lbs i think). My floor is smooth concrete, but relatively dirty, I do have to sweep any hard debris out of the way before moving it. I've found the trick is to push low on the dolly to get it moving (otherwise the bh wants to move without the dolly). It definitely comes in handy, the hookup is a one step process now without any climbing on or moving of the tractor and I don't have to try to do any precision backing

Ken45101 · Mar 31, 2012

You guys make me a little envious with your flat concrete floors! I just have uneven dirt floors but then I do have a lot of barn space!

Ken

TerryR · Mar 31, 2012

I put in concrete some years ago after fighting time and again trying to remount my front end loader after it shifted enough to pressurize the hydraulic lines enough that I couldn’t get the couplings to mate. But the dollies wouldn’t work without them either. On the other hand, barn space is nice too.

Terry

RoyJackson · Mar 31, 2012

Nice job on those dollies!!
This ought to motivate me to building one for my chipper since it's not QH compatable and a real PITA to hook up.

TerryR · Mar 31, 2012

Thanks, Roy.

One caution - when designing it, make sure the casters clear not only the dolly itself as they swivel, but also the base of the implement when it’s on the dolly. I made the chipper dolly a tad too narrow, so the casters can rub against the chipper stand when turned sideways. They don’t turn well when they do that. :-(

I made the dolly so the chipper rides as low as possible because I’m short on overhead room for the blower discharge. If it rode a bit higher, or the dolly was a couple of inches wider, all would be well.

Terry

Raw Dodge · Mar 31, 2012

Very nice work on the dollys! I wouldnt say your getting older...your getting smarter...working smarter instead of harder....:thumbsup:

RoyJackson · Mar 31, 2012

TerryR said:
Thanks, Roy.

One caution - when designing it, make sure the casters clear not only the dolly itself as they swivel, but also the base of the implement when it痴 on the dolly. I made the chipper dolly a tad too narrow, so the casters can rub against the chipper stand when turned sideways. They don稚 turn well when they do that. :-(

I made the dolly so the chipper rides as low as possible because I知 short on overhead room for the blower discharge. If it rode a bit higher, or the dolly was a couple of inches wider, all would be well.

Terry

Thanks for the info.
My chipper is a Woods 5000 and I think it may be a bit top heavy (definitely a higher center of gravity then yours), so that's something I must consider when designing the dollie.
Like you, I don't have a welder so mine will be wood too.