Dump trailer angle of the dangle

[Artisan]

TRR thank you for that!

Looks like Munciepower is selling PENTA products.


CRAZY that this (MunicePower) is the only company I can find selling these
types of cylinders and cradles in the USA, I have not confirmed this yet.
hearsay only.

PENTA needs to be researched and priced thru Munciepower.com

If Muncie Power can get what I/we need I may be able to forget
about KRAMP, but the price will be much higher. errrr

 

[Renze]

Artisan, i have another adress:

Protempo - Telescoopcilinder 2 - traps, Gewicht Kipper 5,5 T

Protempo is a big one in trailerbuilders parts. I have dealt with them in the past, i left the trailer business 4 years ago.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Got a Yanmar dealer near by?
Not sure what they use for pivots but it's got to be durable: YANMAR | C12R-B

 

[boggen]

what about welding on a "u-joint" to the end of the cylinder rod. and the other end of the U joint to the bottom side of the frame for the dump bed.

then place another "U-joint" on bottom of the cylinder, and other end of u-joint on to the frame of the vehicle.

your not needing 360 degrees of rotation of freedom. but you are either tipping bed to the back. or to the sides.

360 joint would only be good, if you planned on tipping the bed directly back on one corner. but with only using a single cylinder. you would most likely have the entire bed and cylinder falling over on you.

weather getting bad and losing internet connection...

but started getting hits on goggle -> images for...
"hydraulic cylinder rod end ball socket 180"

Inline Studs - Zinc Plated - End Fixings - Gas Struts

led me to...
google term -> images-> "ball joint tie rod end"

led me to...
CV joint

rod end ball joints, rod end ball joints Manufacturers in LuLuSoSo.com - page 1
u might see if if you can find type of joint under "bearings" vs a joint or hinge.

rain has me, posting before i loose internet completely.

might just be able to find the "joint" itself, and then get a cylinder/rod with a threaded end, or weld the joint onto the joint.

 

[jarokoro]

go to harbor freight and get some 1 7/8 or 2 inch trailer balls and use a piece of pipe and cut out the female coupler not like its going to dump 10 tons of rock on a platform that size, most of the balls are all rated for 2k to 5k more than enough and not very expensive.

 

[swick1]

go to harbor freight and get some 1 7/8 or 2 inch trailer balls and use a piece of pipe and cut out the female coupler not like its going to dump 10 tons of rock on a platform that size, most of the balls are all rated for 2k to 5k more than enough and not very expensive.

I like this idea. Some heavy pipe that has been chamfered would work well but you would need to put pins at each corner to secure it from coming off the balls. Then you pull any two pins and it dumps that direction. If you are dumping on an incline the deck might fall off though.

 

[Renze]

Artisan, i will take a load of sugarbeet pulp for the sheep of my landlord tomorrow with my brothers dumptrailer, and have taken some shots of the 5 stage telescopic cylinder. Its a 10 ton Veenhuis dumper of 1986 which we saved from the scrapyard last winter, realigned it after rollover damage, beefed it up, hammered most dents out of it and had it resprayed. Its on large 20/70-508 tires so my 60hp tractor has no trouble pulling it through terrain. The tailgate is made so that it can also get rid of a load of branches or treestumps without plugging, or be lifted above future silage extensions.
For the 2.5 ton drawbar load, we have a special drawbar that keeps the load closer to the rear axle, its a welded pin or knob, with a lock latch above it. the French call it a pitonfix.

Last summer we had 13 ton of topsoil on it, topping the scales with a 20t combined weight

 

[jimmysisson]

Wow, I have massive trailer envy! That's a beauty! And your barnyard is paved with bricks?
Wow again.
Jim

 

[Renze]

Yes, 10x20x 7 or 8cm thick concrete bricks is the most common method of paving here. You dont find a lot of rocks to crush here, just river gravel (round pebbles that dont compact well) and sand, but together they make concrete instead. Since 10 or 15 years there are also H bricks that interlock, for even greater stability when you manoever on them with rigid tandems.

 

[zing]

I included a picture of the running gear I recently bought from
the Marines. It is a $3200.00 unit, all mine for $225.00. They
use these for generators. Once the generator is offloaded
to probably a ship, the trailer is no longer wanted...

Anyone see anything NO GO about this?

Hey Artisan. You didn't mention, but are you just planning to strip the running gear off of that wagon and add them to a new frame or perhaps move the front wheels back toward the rear wheels and replace the wagon tongue with a fixed trailer tongue? If you are planning to build the dump box on the wagon frame as-is. then I would be concerned about the hinged tongue. When loaded it would travel fine, but once you have the deck up and dumping toward the rear a heavy load may lift the front axles off the ground without a fixed tongue there to support it. Even a side dump might be a concern without the triangular toungue to help stablize the trailer since that might pivot sideways and jacknife the trailer to your tow vehicle.

If you are moving the front axle back bolting it to the I beams next to the rear axle, you will want to be sure the new trailer tongue height is going to allow the trailer to stay level when attached to your primary tow vehicle, since there is no suspension and if the trailer is not level you will be putting most of your load weight on one axle instead of distributing it evenly on both.

Maybe your plan is to move both axles to the back and use leaf springs?

 

[Artisan]

Thank You Renze...

I did not see that post till today...

...and Thank You zing... zing I was going to use as is.

I got sidetracked from this when I saw shipping fees it
bummed me out, then a big project came along and I am
still working it.

 

[zing]

...and Thank You zing... zing I was going to use as is.

I got sidetracked from this when I saw shipping fees it
bummed me out, then a big project came along and I am
still working it.

Gotcha. Well then since you currently have another project on the go anyway, you may want to take some time to ask around specifically about if anyone has made a dumping wagon. I haven't done it myself, but I see the potential for the hinged wagon tongue to present issues when you are dumping a large or heavy load. The I beams and axles look heavy, so there would be a good bit of weight at the front end to counter balance it, but at the least I would be looking into some calculations to see what weight is going to lift those front wheels off of the ground. It will depend on things like how far behind the rear axle you put the dump box pivot point (the closer to the rear axle the better), how heavy the front end of the trailer frame is, how heavy/high the dump box is, the angle of the dump (maybe have the cylinder top out at 45* instead of going for >50* when fully raised), how heavy your load is, etc.

It may still work fine, but you will want to know what the load limits are going to be and what design things you can do ahead of time to help keep the front wheels on the ground when dumping. Just my thoughts. Hope they help.

 

[Renze]

I got sidetracked from this when I saw shipping fees it bummed me out, then a big project came along and I am still working it.

I know the feeling. I got intrigued by building my own jaw crusher again (just because i can) and watched a lot of youtube videos of small crushers and home built things, and found my video comments and questions of 4 years ago on youtube

 

[davel8257]

I didn't see too much about wagon building, so I'll try adding a thought or two onto this thread... I've only recently bought a tractor with a FEL. I'm thinking about a single axle design, but with the axle almost all the way to the rear. In the front would be 2 pivoting 'legs'. When parked with the legs down it would sit level. To dump this, I'd need to unhook the trailer from the rear drawbar, turn the tractor around and hook the FEL to the trailer (there are some posts about welding a receiver hitch to a FEL). Then, just raise the FEL. The trailer would pivot on the rear axle and dump the contents.

 

[npalen]

You might consider using the FEL with a mounted ball to tow the trailer as well as dump it. This would probably be feasible only in a short to medium distance situation because you would be either pushing the trailer or pulling it by driving backwards with the tractor. I know this sounds silly but years ago I designed trailers like this to be moved around with forktrucks. The "fifth wheel" was a ball joint attached to a couple rectangular tubes that the forks would engage to pick up the front of the trailer and move it. It's amazing how easily this arrangement can be steered to push and maneuver the trailer and having the wheels toward the back as you mentioned makes the trailer less "squirrelly".
The trailer would have stands on the front, as you mentioned, so that it can be quickly set down for loading with the FEL. When the trailer is loaded, you would again connect with it using the ball on the FEL into the socket on the trailer tongue for moving and dumping. Sound feasible to you?

 

[zing]

You might consider using the FEL with a mounted ball to tow the trailer as well as dump it. This would probably be feasible only in a short to medium distance situation because you would be either pushing the trailer or pulling it by driving backwards with the tractor. I know this sounds silly but years ago I designed trailers like this to be moved around with forktrucks. The "fifth wheel" was a ball joint attached to a couple rectangular tubes that the forks would engage to pick up the front of the trailer and move it. It's amazing how easily this arrangement can be steered to push and maneuver the trailer and having the wheels toward the back as you mentioned makes the trailer less "squirrelly".
The trailer would have stands on the front, as you mentioned, so that it can be quickly set down for loading with the FEL. When the trailer is loaded, you would again connect with it using the ball on the FEL into the socket on the trailer tongue for moving and dumping. Sound feasible to you?

Sounds like it would work better with a pintle hitch than it would with a ball hitch.

 

[npalen]

The pintle hitch sounds like a good idea as it would give almost unlimited dump angle where a ball hitch would be limited unless the bucket was rotated as the FEL was raised for dumping.
Probably would be a good idea to latch the pintle before dumping keeping "Safety First" in mind? I'm not real familiar with pintle style hitches.

 

[swick1]

They have hoppers for skid steers with two front wheels and a quick attach at the rear. The skid steer becomes the drive and dump mechanism. Friction from the belly keeps it from moving while it sits there.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4byl0yd7gPI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I thought about building one but I'm afraid of tipping my tractor since the front axle is hinged.

 

[npalen]

Now that is a cool concept! First I had heard of it.

 

[davel8257]

I hadn't thought of the pintle hitch. My FEL has 7 holes in the bucket. One of them is in the center. I drilled it out so that I could put in 2" ball. However, when I drove up to the trailer that I have, I had to get off/back on 2-3 times to get lined up (can't see the lower lip of the FEL from the driver's seat). I've pushed trailers into the woods and back out, so having it up front would be, otherwise, ok with me.