Dragging trees out of clearing, best method?

[EddieWalker]

When I first started clearing my land, I made roads through it by taking out the trees with my backhoe, then wrapping a chain around them, and pulling them behind the backhoe. The chain is attached to one of the tie down points to the size of the hoe. This worked, but the trees created a rut that just got deeper and deeper. Filling in the canyon was hit and miss because it was hard to compact so a heavy thunderstorm didn't wash it out. In some areas, I've had to use bricks and even sacks of concrete to lock the soil in place.

Eventually I got a grapple for the front of the backhoe. I had to modify it to a Quick Attach, which was a pain. And then do the plumbing for the hydraulics, which was also a pain. But that made life ten times better. I made my roads wider so I could get through them with the saplings in the grapple. They still my hit something along the way. If it wasn't too bad, I lived with it, if it caused issues, I took out some more trees.

For bigger trees, I would cut them into lengths. This helped them burn, but also made getting them through the woods a lot easier. I always get the stump as small as possible, but even then, some stumps where too big for my grapple to pick up. Recently I discovered that I could pick up those stumps with my pallet forks!!!!!

Besides not destroying the soil, this also ended my issue of soil building up in the burn pile. Just a little dirt on a tree in the burn pile would lead to a massive amount of dirt over time. Getting off of the tractor as little as possible makes everything easier and go faster. But sometimes the easiest way requires using the chainsaw. In my opinion, it's easier to cut a big tree into 20 foot sections, or bigger if I have the space to get through the trees, then to rebuild the ground that is destroyed by dragging trees over it, over and over again.

 

[TractorTYMe]

Well, most of us want to do it ourselves to save money. But then we overwork our bodies and end up paying the hospital to fix our bodies for our cheap escapes. Work smart, not hard......I'd rather spend that money on equipment than pay the hospital.

 

[M59]

When I first started clearing my land, I made roads through it by taking out the trees with my backhoe, then wrapping a chain around them, and pulling them behind the backhoe. The chain is attached to one of the tie down points to the size of the hoe. This worked, but the trees created a rut that just got deeper and deeper. Filling in the canyon was hit and miss because it was hard to compact so a heavy thunderstorm didn't wash it out. In some areas, I've had to use bricks and even sacks of concrete to lock the soil in place.

Eventually I got a grapple for the front of the backhoe. I had to modify it to a Quick Attach, which was a pain. And then do the plumbing for the hydraulics, which was also a pain. But that made life ten times better. I made my roads wider so I could get through them with the saplings in the grapple. They still my hit something along the way. If it wasn't too bad, I lived with it, if it caused issues, I took out some more trees.

For bigger trees, I would cut them into lengths. This helped them burn, but also made getting them through the woods a lot easier. I always get the stump as small as possible, but even then, some stumps where too big for my grapple to pick up. Recently I discovered that I could pick up those stumps with my pallet forks!!!!!

Besides not destroying the soil, this also ended my issue of soil building up in the burn pile. Just a little dirt on a tree in the burn pile would lead to a massive amount of dirt over time. Getting off of the tractor as little as possible makes everything easier and go faster. But sometimes the easiest way requires using the chainsaw. In my opinion, it's easier to cut a big tree into 20 foot sections, or bigger if I have the space to get through the trees, then to rebuild the ground that is destroyed by dragging trees over it, over and over again.

EddieWalker,

Well put and clearly gained from experience. Grapples work wonders on limbs and tops. If moving only logs then, depending on distance moved, I can move 10-20 cord of wood in an hour.

 

[airbiscuit]

So, what method/equipment did you end up using?

 

[Richard]

Here's a side question if I may.... decided to just ask here rather than a new thread.

Second storm came through. Couple more trees blown over (probably loosened up by first storm)

Anyway, had a white oak fall, block the drive. Spent two hours cutting the canopy so I could drag it off/away from the drive. Now, I see the base of the tree further up the hill and VERY easy to get to. I've been wanting to get some white oak to make a box or chest for my great-nephew who's all of maybe three years old.

Maybe something else....don't really know. This got me wondering though.... if I cut the white oak into logs, have it milled into dimensional lumber..... (and remember, this is for kicks & grins) I've been wondering if it's worth having it quarter sawn verses straight cut. i'm guessing the grain would be long/straight verses the 'layered' image traditional oak gives BUT, I don't think I've ever seen quarter sawn white oak.

There will be probably six 10' lengths of clean logs so I might have them cut half one way, half the other way.....

Ultimately, what I'm trying to figure out in my head is, is there any visual value to having white oak quarter sawn verses straight?

 

[2manyrocks]

Quarter sawn is the most preferred material for visual impact. Just do a search on other websites. However, if the material isn't going to be put to best use by a skilled woodworker, is it worth it? It wouldn't make sense to use it to make bookshelfs where the grain will be covered up by books. But if you're going to make something to show off, then quarter sawn.

 

[dougtrr2]

Once the sawyer squares up the log, if you just cut it through and through you will have a mix of wood with the boards near the middle showing quarter sawn grain. You might have an issue finding a sawyer that is proficient in quartersawing.

While you have the sawyer there, have him saw up some stickers, you will need a lot and he can easily produce them.

I hired a sawyer with a portable band mill to saw some storm fallen walnut and oak. It was the best money I spent on my hobby. Make sure you have plenty of help.

Doug in SW IA

 

[airbiscuit]

So, what method/equipment did you end up using?

Inquiring minds want to know

 

[Torvy]

You could try this to move the logs...

Maybe a local military unit needs some training.


Oh yeah, DEF starts at 75 HP. Over 25 there are other rules that tend to lead to DOC or DPF or another creative way to reduce emissions.

 

[m7040]

I pick up long trees up at times with the bucket the long way when there is no space to carry it crosswise. And I don't have a grapple but welded on a thumb on the bucket that works pretty well so I never got one.

 

[5030]

Back when I lived in Ohio and we heated with wood and had our own tree lot to fell and cut up, I use a 1949 Farmall A (2wd gas tractor) to skid whole trees out of the woods all the time and I pulled some big ones too. It struggled at times, but got the job done. Used the drawbar and a chain. Nothing more.

Don't overthink it and don't overspend on it either.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

Back when I lived in Ohio and we heated with wood and had our own tree lot to fell and cut up, I use a 1949 Farmall A (2wd gas tractor) to skid whole trees out of the woods all the time and I pulled some big ones too. It struggled at times, but got the job done. Used the drawbar and a chain. Nothing more.

Don't overthink it and don't overspend on it either.

Did the same, but with 4x4. That's all I had to use, and they were too long to carry crosswise. Chains definately needed on the hill.

 

[5030]

Mine had R1's on the back and I always tried to not pull when the ground was soggy. Wish I had that little 18 horse tractor today. Everything is in the transmission, always 1st gear. I pulled some huge trees with it too. Flat where we lived so no hills to deal with. You use what you have to work with.

 

[rScotty]

Grapple is going to have trees perpendicular to tractor....wider swath through woods. I'm looking to drag in line with tractor so I can keep it under 4-lane highway in width. (a bit of an exaggeration)

I'm soon to be 63 so appreciate the idea of using my energy to put diesel into a tank, rather than using my energy to cut/pull/carry and otherwise wear myself out! Let the machine to the hard part.

I just grab the tree with the backhoe and thrumb, swing the hoe so that the tree is alongside the tractor, and off we go. Nice and narrow. We've moved over 40 full size pines in the last few years, and a dozen cottonwoods. I cut large branches off of course and look out for obstacles.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

I did much of it in late winter. Little snow that year, ground frozen. Ideal for pulling

 

[3Ts]

Quarter sawn white oak is the preferred wood for visual appeal - i.e. table tops, chests, etc. Truly quarter sawn doesn't produce much usable lumber out of a log though. Also consider RIFT sawn, it is close to quarter sawn, and produces more usable lumber. I also suspect a sawyer will give you RIFT if you ask for quarter sawn.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Once the sawyer squares up the log, if you just cut it through and through you will have a mix of wood with the boards near the middle showing quarter sawn grain. You might have an issue finding a sawyer that is proficient in quartersawing.

While you have the sawyer there, have him saw up some stickers, you will need a lot and he can easily produce them.

I hired a sawyer with a portable band mill to saw some storm fallen walnut and oak. It was the best money I spent on my hobby. Make sure you have plenty of help.

Doug in SW IA

Green wood dry sticks.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

If you had an old pto winch...

 

[bcp]

The trouble with a PTO winch run directly on a tractor PTO is no ability to reverse or release tension. You would need to run the drive through a gearbox or transmission instead.

Bruce

 

[oosik]

I have ONLY Ponderosa pines. All the way from 1" to 34+". Up until I got the Land Pride grapple on my M6040 - I drug with either a chain or heavy strapping. All attached to the tractor drawbar. The bigger the tree - the shorter the cut lengths. Dragging was easy but time consuming. AND - it left horrid drag ditches.

I got the grapple and everything changed. Now all downed trees are cut to lengths that do not exceed 3000#. Normally I will cut them to not exceed 2500#. Pick and move to the burn pile with the tractor and grapple.

The internet provides "log weigh charts" for green trees of most all types and sizes.