Diesel versus gas maintance

[sandman2234]

Well, for the last year, I have been considering buying a heavier duty p/u so I could move my tractors without having to drive them to their destinations. A used Ford F350 has been chosen, and maybe one day I will actually take pocession of it, but that is another story.(2000 model with 7.3 and standard transmission) I have a few questions about diesel p/u's that hopefully can be answered easily.
What am I looking at as far as maintance compared to a gas engine. Is there anything that has to be done that a gas driving person wouldn't think about, or things that are done more often, or not at all?
With a gas vehicle, you give the throttle a little nudge, and ease out the clutch. With a tractor trailer, you will burn the clutch out doing that, as you let the clutch out and then give it throttle to prevent "slipping the clutch". Which was do diesel p/u's do it? I will probably figure that one out the first time I actually drive the chosen truck, but for now I thought I would ask.
I am not going to ask about fuel mileage, but wondered if there are any tricks to installing a fuel extender (larger tank). I probably won't need it, as the truck won't drive far to get me to work and back and when toting a load, it will only go about 300 miles, but i was curious since I am only about 30 miles from a cheaper place to buy fuel, but buying it for a single tank doesn't make that much of a savings. I could probably buy all my fuel up there if I add about 100 gallons of capacity. May or not make any financial sense, jury is still out on that one.
Fifth wheel hitches...
Truck has one, and when I go to pick it up, I will also pick up a well used trailer. Makes sense for what he wants for the trailer just to load my p/u on it and drive back home.(900 miles) Recently replaced axles and tires on the trailer, so that shouldn't be a problem. I can handle a tractor trailer, so I don't think this smaller version is going to be a problem, but there are always little tricks to everything. The truck is getting very limited miles since Feb, so is there anything I need to do before starting out on the road with it?Any suggestions? David from jax

 

[Highbeam]

I have a 2000 7.3 diesel too, this was my first diesel after driving gas trucks for many years. There is very little difference in maintenance really assuming you were properly maintaining the gas trucks. The fuel filter is a 10k interval and the coolant needs to be maintained a bit differently than a gas truck.

Stock, the 7.3 isn't that impressive. It will do the job of course and won't work hard to do it but it just doesn't scare you with speed like you may expect.

 

[bigtiller]

I have never owned a diesel truck so I can't be much help to you. But about 5 years ago my Chevy dealer sent me a shop price list for various automotive jobs including regular grease, oil and filter changes. I remember the diesel was twice the price of a gas pick-up for the regular service. So there has to be a difference of something some where.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have had 3 Ford Diesels.

In a nut shell:

Oil changes: Filter is about $15 and takes 15QTS of oil. I run Dello 400 or Mobil Delvac. I do 5000 mile oil changes.

Fuel Filters: Change it every 15,000 miles or so. You dont have winter fuel problems in your area but a good dose of a additive is not going to hurt a thing and will keep the creepy crawly's at bay.

Tranny Filer: Change it every 15,000 miles or so. I change the fluid every 30,000 miles.

Tire rotations: Do it every other oil change or you will wear the rears out pulling heavy loads.

Air filter: Change it every 15,000 miles or so.

I work my trucks very hard and this has worked for me. 90% of my miles are pulling loads 10,000# to 16,000# and the occasional 25,000# load so they are not grocery getter's at all.

Also, if its 4x4 use it once a month. I have never had a 4x4 issue other than a failed transfer case in a 89 GM at about 30,000 miles. I have owned 4x4 trucks since the mid 80's and never had even a bad hub. I use my 4x4 weekly and contribute it to that.


Chris

 

[Rustyiron]

You should be happy with your new truck. That vintage motor is (IMHO) the best that Ford ever offered. You'll spend a few more bucks on maint. (than gas) but mostly to make it last, not to make it run! It will take 17 qts with a filter change (allways) and keeping up on your fuel filter will add years of life/hrs to your (expensive) fuel system. I've got/seen the 7.3 with 7000+hrs and still going. And one thing that the new diesels can't do that the 7.3 can is run on heating oil! I use one off road and run red fuel only in it.

 

[wirenut]

I have a 2002 F-250, and really like it. I have to say it was way underpowered as delivered. Installed a hyper-tech programmer at 4000 miles. Makes a world of difference in the tow mode. Not one problem to date.
One really helpful series is on youtube: ‪6.0 vs 7.3 POWERSTROKE FORD DIESEL 1 OF 6‬‏ - YouTube
He actually has a 7.3 with 900,000+ miles

 

[franklinute]

I have owned two Ford diesel pickup trucks. Bought both new and current truck is 2000 F250 4x4 crew cab. I have held on to it because most people say this is the best diesel engine in a Ford. Wether that is true or not is anyone's guess. Diesel trucks cost more initially, heavier, general maintenance is approx. twice as expensive, fuel costs more, and parts (especially before the aftermarket catches up) are much more expensive than the gas versions. And heaven help you if you have a breakdown on the road somewhere. I live in a smaller town and have a local Ford dealership but finding a technician who is trained to know all about your vehicle when under warranty is very frustrating. I wish I had kept a log of the many times in and out of the dealership just for seemingly simple fixes. On top of that they would have my truck for a week each time. For example the gears in the electronic shift portion of the transfer case wore out and the dealer said that I shift in and out of 4x4 too much. Well bs on that. A $40,000 stickered truck should be able to give good long term service if well maintained and operated. But I feel now I understand most aspects of how this truck functions and have educated myself how to go about repairs. I work this truck very hard also. I don't want to admit how much weight I have hauled because people wouldn't believe it anyway. When you are on and off the farm if you don't have 4x4 with a diesel truck you can't go anywhere in wet weather. I really came on to tout the benefits of the diesel pickup and there are many. I guess I just like driving a diesel pickup.
P.S. Always have an extra gallon or two of fuel, a fuel filter and a cps sensor.

 

[sandman2234]

Thanks for the advice so far, very informative.
Franklinute, or anyone...I understand the extra fuel and fuel filter, but what is a CPS sensor? and where would it be, what would be the expected symtoms/actions causing me to want to find and replace it?.
Chris, on the fluid change for the tranny, does that include a standard shift transmisson??? 15 to 17 quarts of oil at 5000 mile is like changing a gaser every 1700 miles as far as expense, but oil changes are cheap compared to rebuilding a worn out motor from too few oil changes, no doubt!!
Highbeam, if it will even move my tractor, it has got to be better than this 4.8 that I am currently driving. It would probably scare it into not starting if I backed it up to the trailer that I haul my 7000 pound J.Deere on, and that is with the trailer empty, lol.
My old 91 Chevy will at least move it, but that durn thing is too old to be doing that kind of abuse to it.
David from jax

 

[JESSE1]

CPS is the cam position sensor. Located on the front of the engine, accessed by removing two bolts. Seems to be the most common part to fail on the 7.3 Powerstroke engine. I never had one go out but it's good to carry a spare.

It's a good idea to change the fluid in a manual trans too. No filter that I'm aware of.

The 7.3 Powerstroke is a strong engine. It was rated at 235hp and 500 lb/ft torque in '99 and eventually increased to 250/525 by early '03 when it was replaced with the 6.0. Don't worry about it pulling your trailer.

 

[VitaBene]

I have a 99 F250 w/ 7.3 PSD and a 6 speed manual. I regularly tow 8-10K for long distances. I have an aftermarket ceramic clutch (LUK) that I installed when replacing the clutch fork (it was a bad design for 99).

I run a Superchips microtuner on max power all of the time. I average 16.5 MPG mixed driving, hand calculated, not towing. I get 11-12 MPG towing my 32' enclosed trailer on the highway (usually NH to Myrtle or Daytona).

Truck has 180K and I have replaced one CPS. I will keep this as long as the motor last or until the body falls off!

 

[franklinute]

When a cps sensor goes bad it can leave you stranded. I have replaced one in my driveway and had 2 replaced by dealer by factory recalls. No prior warning at all, truck will crank and crank just won't start. Remove a couple of little bolts replace sensor and fires right up.
Bill at powerstrokehelp is entertaining and has some good information. Take some time and watch his videos he explains how the systems on these trucks function and how they should be maintained.

 

[mbrule]

I just bought an '06 F350 Diesel to replace my '86 Chevy K20 gas.

Diesel maintenance is PRICEY compared to my old Chevy:

Quarts of oil: F350 15 / K20 5
Oil Filter: F350 $18 / K20 $5
Air Filter: F350 $60 Every 15k or so / K20 $45 for lifetime K&N
Fuel filters: F350 $60 Every other oil change / $5 can't remember the last time I changed it!

Cooling system is about twice the capacity and I have to use gold antifreeze (and may be some anti cavitation additive from Ford?

Still have to service the trans on the new Ford, but I bet it holds more fluid and I know that there are 2 filters.

No doubt that the F350 is more truck and I hope to get in the upper teens for fuel mileage, where the K20 gets 10 MPG best case (TH400 / 4:10).

 

[Diamondpilot]

I just bought an '06 F350 Diesel to replace my '86 Chevy K20 gas.

Diesel maintenance is PRICEY compared to my old Chevy:

Quarts of oil: F350 15 / K20 5
Oil Filter: F350 $18 / K20 $5
Air Filter: F350 $60 Every 15k or so / K20 $45 for lifetime K&N
Fuel filters: F350 $60 Every other oil change / $5 can't remember the last time I changed it!

Cooling system is about twice the capacity and I have to use gold antifreeze (and may be some anti cavitation additive from Ford?

Still have to service the trans on the new Ford, but I bet it holds more fluid and I know that there are 2 filters.

No doubt that the F350 is more truck and I hope to get in the upper teens for fuel mileage, where the K20 gets 10 MPG best case (TH400 / 4:10).

Yes, the oil changes are more but you go 5K instead of 3K. As for the air filter put a K&N on the F-350 also and you are good for life.

I run MAC air filters and intakes on both my 6.0's and it really livens them up but not as much as the Quadzilla boxes.:laughing:

Chris

 

[RobertN]

I have seen a front diff, that was dripping oil from the bottom half, and rusty on the top half; whoever had it never used 4x4... Saw it at a shop some time ago.

Also, if its 4x4 use it once a month. I have never had a 4x4 issue other than a failed transfer case in a 89 GM at about 30,000 miles. I have owned 4x4 trucks since the mid 80's and never had even a bad hub. I use my 4x4 weekly and contribute it to that.

 

[mbrule]

Yes, the oil changes are more but you go 5K instead of 3K. As for the air filter put a K&N on the F-350 also and you are good for life.

I run MAC air filters and intakes on both my 6.0's and it really livens them up but not as much as the Quadzilla boxes.:laughing:

Chris

Chris
Don't mean to hijack , I think this is still relevant to the OPs question.... If not I apologize.

Does MAC make a "drop in" filter or do you have to change the intake? Looks like it is a complete intake. K&N requires changing some of the air intake parts and $250 or $350 depending just what is replaced.

Are these intake replacements (either MAC or K&N) OK with stock everything else?

This is not only my first diesel, it is my first truck newer than '86 without a Chevy 350!?!?!?!? Consequently, I am chicken to change anything!!! As I know so little about it.

 

[Highbeam]

Guys, motorcraft oil filter from walmart is 9.99$. Oil is 10$ per gallon at walmart for delo400 so a big whoppin total of 50$ for an oil change every 5000 miles. This is not a big deal.

Can't really compare a 444 cubic inch diesel to a small block chevy. A closer comparison would be to a big block ford or chevy with similar displacement.

The fuel filter is not 60$. Shop around and you'll only spend half that. Figure that you're spending 100$ just to fill the fuel tank, don't qorry about 10 bucks here or there. The filter is right on top and is easy to change. No bleeding or special tools required.

The CPS was a weak spot. Guess what? Ford recalled them and the new grey one is no longer failure prone. I have been carrying a spare in my glovebox for a long time. The sensor is 38$, is held on by a single 10mm bolt and is easy to replace. The old sensors seldom left you stranded but were more likely to cause random stalls or hiccups when the old ones would go bad.

The big deal and only real issue worth consideration is that if something breaks on the engine it gets very expensive to fix compared to a gas engine. Head gaskets, turbo, or injectors are big ticket items. The normal maintenance stuff is cheap, more than a gas truck but still cheap.

 

[mbrule]

Guys, motorcraft oil filter from walmart is 9.99$. Oil is 10$ per gallon at walmart for delo400 so a big whoppin total of 50$ for an oil change every 5000 miles. This is not a big deal.

Can't really compare a 444 cubic inch diesel to a small block chevy. A closer comparison would be to a big block ford or chevy with similar displacement.

The fuel filter is not 60$. Shop around and you'll only spend half that. Figure that you're spending 100$ just to fill the fuel tank, don't qorry about 10 bucks here or there. The filter is right on top and is easy to change. No bleeding or special tools required.

The CPS was a weak spot. Guess what? Ford recalled them and the new grey one is no longer failure prone. I have been carrying a spare in my glovebox for a long time. The sensor is 38$, is held on by a single 10mm bolt and is easy to replace. The old sensors seldom left you stranded but were more likely to cause random stalls or hiccups when the old ones would go bad.

The big deal and only real issue worth consideration is that if something breaks on the engine it gets very expensive to fix compared to a gas engine. Head gaskets, turbo, or injectors are big ticket items. The normal maintenance stuff is cheap, more than a gas truck but still cheap.

I can scan a receipt for $18 and change that I paid for the Motorcraft oil filter at Walmart this weekend. Add 15 Quarts of Motorcraft oil at $15 and change / 5 quarts, that is $63 and change plus tax every 5k miles. Instead of $20 or so every 3k miles for the K20.

Air filter was just about $60, a standard one for the K20 is less than $10, the K&N was $45. A K&N for the F350 appears to be about $250.

Fuel filters were $59 and change for Hastings brand at my local auto parts store, you are right, I did not shop around, may be I can find them cheaper.

ONE of the fuel filters is right on top, BUT, there is another in the frame rail that sucks to change, and requires a 36 mm socket, not exactly a special tool , but not in the average homeowner box either.

I realize that my two trucks 06 F350 and 86 K20 ARE NOT an apples to apples comparison, just my experience. It does illustrate that the diesel requires more (and more expensive) maintenance, that is a fact. I am not saying that the maintenance costs are a big deal, but that my new F350 will and is costing more to maintain than my old small block gas job. And, that is of course if nothing breaks. That said the F350 is A LOT MORE TRUCK!!!!

Don't get me wrong, I love the new truck! (having trouble parting with the old one though!) and understand that the maintenance (and any repairs) will be higher.

 

[sandman2234]

Just to compare apples to apples, what does Ford (or International?) Recommend as the oil change mileage? My 2001 Chevy is not 3000 but 7500 just for example. Quickie Oil change companies have everybody thinking 3k is the absolute max or the engine will fail at 3001 miles. I change my gasser at 5 to 6k, which has worked for the last 4 trucks. I know diesels require a no nonsense maintance plan which is what I am learning about, so I don't miss anything. 5k shouldn't be too often as that works now.
David from jax

 

[JESSE1]

The 7.3 Powerstroke only had one fuel filter and the oil filter was a canister type under the engine that's cheaper than the filter for the 6 and 6.4.

I wouldn't go over 5000 miles on a oil change. Also, the worst thing you can do to these engines is extended idling. When you stop to get fuel or go in the store shut it down.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You can get the 36MM socket on line for $10 or less to your door. As for the filters I get them on line also for about $8 each to my door also.

Shop around for a good aftermarket air filter. All I have seen bolt right up with no modifications and include the air intake tube and filter for about $200 to your door.

A quick google search also shows for the OP's truck, a 2000 7.3L, you can get a K&N, AFE, or other brand drop in replacement filter for around $50 to his door.

Chris